Yo'J

Are you sure its a 2wd xt6?

herehttp://lmgtfy.com/?q=33+ohm+5+watt+resistor

Page 323 of the 1980thru1989 haynes has it, but its hard to read, I mean really hard to read. Pm me. I'll scan it.

You could use extra windshield washer spray jets to cover the holes on the outside and plumb the center one forward for some summertime fun at the beach.

Sure the head gasket can be fixed forever, but you got to change it first! Somewhere I read, (I wonder where?) They went through many different designs to get to where they are today with the 2.5 head gaskets. Welcome to the board!

If you're looking for an ea82 wagon I would stick with waiting out for a non turbo 88' or 89 with the dual range manual. Find one that doesn't run and bring her back. Easiest EJ swap candidate. You can find about two a month for less than $500. There is an efi 87.5' but it will be tougher to get parts for. 87' and previous is carbed. For 90' they dropped the dual range. For 81 to 84 expect to really want to put in the 5sd dual range conversion. If I saw a low mile d/r ea82 whatever, I would consider it for parts, no matter the condition of the rest of it. I saw two non drivers last month for less than $200 both with blown heads but I got too many cars already.

My alt was bucking out 18v for two short drives, thank god I noticed. The battery was swollen and started to spray acid!

I got pink undies on my brat! But shes riding stock. Still got to do the mustache bar!

I like to keep a 4" house door hinge pin or two in my box to use as a stop for the flywheel, with a bent end obviously. They bend easily enough to use for a couple of uses, but wear out rather fast. Did you try to put it in gear? Locktite? Its been a while for me to say anything about a nub and hole for any ea82 stuff, but metal might have moved if there is a wear spot in that area. For the whirring, have you looked for anything while running or listened maybe? Something might be putting extra tension on your belt, water pump, compressor, whatever.

I was thinking a desk lamp would be cool if it wasn't to big and it was clean enough to spray a thin coat of lacquer on to keep the corrosion away. I got a clean-ish one thats unknown mechanically.

Discount shmishcount! I wanna see the book!

Um, isnt all eastern Washington between a milemarker and some tumbleweed? I'm gonna try to bring the 87 brat! We will see...."swmbo", someone said wife?

Just drilling and cutting and bolting if you don't have a welder. More things to watch loosen as you drive. I'm sitting in outback seats in my 82'. They are too big by the way and barely slide forward or back due to friction.

I just installed a new fuse box with room and mounts for three relays and four fuses:banana: Fount it in an old mitsubishi, fits just perfect! Its like 2"by 4" and fit right by the battery! I got a switch and ran new power for my switched source, so you can crank it all you want but without the switch it wont start, or turn off. I thought I had my PS lines routed fine but they are way forward into the exhaust pipe area with out much room to bend out of the way unfortunately. Looks like it time for gwilsons approach and get new lines. Scoobiedoo, You driving yours yet? I CANT WAIT!!!!!:banana:

Speaking of, I heard from the dealer that there are three (3) ea81 rear wagon seals left in the country and none for the side glass.

I m leaning towards six lug redrills so I can get cheap spare rims for seasonal tires, but, I'm DD'ing a beater roo. Totaled on the licence. 4x140 is a tough rim to source ya know. Thirteens is about it or pugs. There's spacers....

Reverse engineering at its finest! The thing is the coil was powered! The ecu didn't have enough power to send a signal to the ignitor so it could then tell the coil to fire, BUT, only when it was cranking.

Cool, I love running bigger tires. I went with a rule, up and out must equal. Didn't acheve it, but, I would like nice looking rims someday. Be prepared to sledge hammer your fender-wells in front for your tires to fit and not rub.

If you have a garage baby 18000mi 83 brat w/o rust and a good dash and interior, don't do a darn thing with that thing! Now if its worth(less) running the trails, modding it out is a wondrous thing to do with it. Might be worth a bit. IMHO

You could plug yours into a known running car, I don't know if Id try it the other way though.

I mailed off my harness so I didn't do any chopping, I might do it myself next time.(Now! I could use some extra power features!) I used both sets of relays ea and ej so I think I might be using up a bit more power than normal maybe. When i tested the ignition switched power while cranking it would fluctuate and read about 9v, I dunno, its less than ten and bounced. Thats where I started, the ignition switch, I soldered three leads from there and it equaled, FAILURE! I think I'm just gonna go for a power button and run a new circuit, seems safest. I'll still test out that circuit, I do want to know if I can pull power from there. Does a brake petal button work for the neutral switch? Continuity when unpressed, or do I have it backwards again? I don't understand this part of electronic wiring very well. I noticed on the 95 and later ej you power the switch, but I still don't understand the switching actions. (Funny, reminds me of some old saying like "blinded by your own ignorance" or something. Its right in front of me and yet I cannot see!)

For the switched power I was thinking this^^, and if it didn't work, a relay from here to send a straight fused battery constant, would. Being the fuel pump circuit, It should not experience a voltage drop while cranking, right? I don't know till testing it. I'll bet thats why a kill switch would be so easy, you are all ready running a new line. It could be the Power Button on the dash. It was your thread that got me spark there SoobieDoo! I will be so pleased to get this thing on the road. I still need a lot, but its in motion. I feel much more confident in my EJ skills now I'll tell ya!

Not enough juice from the ignition switch. So I put it to power and turned the key and she fired right up! Time to button her up! THANK YOU ALL

So, I'm lost. Capn R has been helping me out greatly. I'd have no hair by now! We have tested the cam and crank sensors, ignitor and ecu on his running car. The coil we rechecked but havent swapped, yet. The t-belts were off and are now straight, I lined up to the wrong mark on the crank. (knowing me) Everything seems good. All grounds are good. All powers good. BUT there is no spark. Just as you stop cranking it will let out a dull spark, sometimes. I wired up the switched and non switched power and the "while cranking power"to the ignitions pink plug. I wired the cel in to the 1st pin and it works fine, got fuel wired into the old FP relay along with the tach and the vss to the reed switch in the dash. The ecu pins seem to all read as they should, grounds grounded, continuity, 12v. Its gotta be something dumb, right, but what?

The california v.s.49state wouldn't stop starting? Somewhere on here someone showed a vin decoder listing that. It sure would be nice to find again. Off to work. pulleys are fine