Yo'J

Cmon...

I love it. Bumpersticker time!

Oh, Pedal.....I mis read.

I thought these motors needed a thin oil to pump the lifters and a thicker oil wouldn't do that, am I wrong?

I'd hope cleaner would break down a clog but ruparts might be right especially if it doesn't ever stop after it started. Wouldn't a clogged lifter be kind of intermittent? If you got a good seal on your oil pump and good pressure, are running 10-30w and its intermittent, I'd bet its a chunk o funk blocking a lifter. Can you use a tube or a screwdriver to your ear to pick out the lifter? I don't know how to even imagine the oil lines inside of an ea81 engine or where the oil goes besides in the fill spout and around my oil pan gasket to my drive way. I've only done a valve adj on an ea81. Farthest I'd gotten one apart yet. Yet!

I had an inner tierod that was loose on the steering rack do that intermittently, really only at freeway speeds and when braking. Of course it was under the rack boot and the last thing I checked after bearings and brakes, scratching my head going WTF? I found PO homespun plyer marks all over the crimp washer and not tightened all the way or fully bent down.

On my ea81, If there was something I would change on my lift, I would have moved the front up an inch over the rear. I have a 2" but a 3"/2" would have made all the difference to me.

I just did the swap and I think you will be fine with the diagrams you have. Everyone is here to help!

Hey GD, I want $65 axles. Where? They rape you up here. Looked into distys lately?

Mine have sounded like a fist hitting a bag of potato chips for a year now. I got one new (1 yr old now) mwe axle and one junkyard oem axle. Same prob. Only at the right (correct) angle turn I get "the noise" from either one. Its been a year and I have three extras and I'll do the exchange myself. One in the car at all times. It scares passengers! My boots are perfect though, with new grease. The boots are like ten bucks and a jy axle $18, remaned mwe or noname $150+/-(and mine sucks, I thought it was the other one, but, NOOOOO! Its both!), dealer $220+/- but new.

I do believe there is no "All" in this scenario.

No! Its the leg of one under the Jeep!

Now thats where you'd put your screen name! Nice looking!

Dude, they are cute, admit it. Thats not an addiction. I'm on six, but, I had to put 3 to sleep. (Organ donors) They lived on. Welcome!

I guess thats where the carpenter you "trust" comes in. I know, in "this" world we live in? Ya know, you live in an area where carpentry is, or can be, (I should say) an art. More carpenters live by that,... rule, (you could call it) east, than anywhere west. Time could be your issue. I'd like to think, "What would I rather be doing?" But I"m a carpenter who is always working on "other peoples" stuff and not my own.

Think dark, dark grey or close to black crackle paint with a hot pink underlay! I really wish I could do a crackle paint on metal to weather. On wood, I have a hard time getting it to wear in the house without sprayed lacquer and i don't have a booth for that.

Host up some pics! What kind ofVW?

It will be fun! Welcome!

I just went back 4 times:lol: Finally they got the right ones. At least they paid shipping and not me.

As a carpenter, I could suggest you try to find a local carpenter you trust to build it. The price game has some high stakes involved. Usually a bid is a guess on building costs plus 60% for profit and overruns. A pad can be had cheap with the specifications on your local building code. (Insulation, water table adjustments, footings ect.) Its like a grand a 10 yard concrete truck delivery here. Gravel and insulation a grand or two depending on the size of your garage pad. Your local union guys that are out of work love that kind of side work and are usually happy to give you a deal and the best work. I love watching union d-wallers and tapers. They have wings, ya know! Building materials have dropped almost 50% but I'll bet your quotes havent noticed. Plumbing and electrical can be expensive and should be set up before you pour. Installation is your biggest problem labor wise. You get what you pay for and you pay double for "contractor services". I run a one man show myself an I have work coming out my ears because I have no overhead or employees and I don't bid. Just hourly and tool expense. For example, four walls and a papered roof should be up in a week max, by me and one buddy, weather withholding. Interior and siding is where you can spend money, you have to look at it ya know. Thats all I can give ya without a plan to look at. Keep your money local, it will reinvest itself in your local neighborhood.

Clean the engine bay before insurance looks at it! The rest of it too. It will help you get the most out of your insurance. I'm sure they will total it. If it looks like it could have come straight off the lot they have to get you lot prices.

Heck no! That thing will be fine if it tracks straight! I hope you brought spare mice and rubber bands and a roll of duct tape (timing belts), the flashlight is a good idea too. Just don't over heat it.

Don't forget to do the triple price check as napa and schucks, oreilly (whatever) has the same stuff you can order too.

I hear they don't want the scraps without the whole cat together, at least for cash. I might need some work done too. I need to fit my ej y pipe to my 87 brat and then to the end of the car.

When I was lifting my 82' wagon, I was under the car putting in the lift blocks and did almost the same thing, but I didn't knock myself out. Instead, I nailed the same spot on my head with the wrench, my 1/2" drive spud with the breaker bar on it, about four times. I kept moving around but when the bolts were breaking loose, that was my head to pad the wrench. The back went in fine though.