Yo'J

Doh!

O.K. I guess I don't know a thing and cant d-check till its running according to the chiltons. What are the blinking lights telling me! Hey Tex, I've got the early timing belt covers with the removable ends zip tied on, its a cost of 6 zip ties to check the cam pulleys. Which side is which? What is the discerning feature(s) between the two?

Well something must be up. But I still don't know what. I tried to read the codes on the dash but couldn't. There doesn't seem to be any power on the cel wire (unless its grounded out in order to light, funny, I didn't test that, but I did make sure I could see the light through the face) It wouldn't light by ecu power. It did blink "in" the ecu, two long and two fast, in test mode, compared to normal which is three slow flashes. A knock sensor code? It would still start, right? I didn't have a O2 sensor plugged in.

If my fingers weren't numb, I would go read the codes. Looking for a CAS code or a power wire connected to a "switched off while cranking switched power" wire. But its almost dark, and working in the drive, its time for a warm up!

Well I'm not getting any spark and no variable signal at the ignitor while cranking. The signal should go from the ecu to the ignitor then send the signal to the coil to fire. I'm getting nothing at the coil, just power. The coil has a little more resistance than it specs out but only 2.4ohms compaired to new at .7ohms. Should I be worried about that? So It should be somewhere between the ecu failing and the igniter. All the grounds and ecu powers check so its gotta be there. I'm leaning towards the ecu but how do you check an igniter? I drove the car before I disassembled it, what could have failed while sitting?

OK, no spark, I'll be testing the ignitor and coil, grounding circuit and everything else I can think of. Gotta get a good DMM. I want to say thank you so much Capn'R for spending your time helping me out. You got me on the right track for sure.

Lmgtfy!!!!rofl!

Update, work is driving me.....but I got this weekend free. I also got power steering fittings.:banana:

THANK YOU! I'm updating the bullets at the first post as I go along. Gloyale, I'm sure you have posted that a million times! I searched but couldn't find it again to save my life! For the oil and temp, I should just wire it in to the old wires in the engine bay? Capn'r, I didn't know ALLDATAs resources are available at the public library! That is wonderful!

Oh thanks but I just need the brat one.

I'm a carpenter not a car brain surgeon! This has got me cunfuzzed as all hell. I cant for the life of me find a guage cluster diagram for my 87 brat or any ea81. It might help. I've got a haynes with a 82/83 whole car diagram, no pinouts or connectors, just wire colors. I got a chiltons with the 86 brat and hatch ecm diagram no pinout just colors too and thats it for the chiltons, nada. Battery isn't in the car yet so I don't go test it with my tongue. 90 Leg 22 is in, power steering is in, 5sp d/r is in, surge tank is in. Lots to finish up. Column is out, cluster is out. I got my harness cut down (like last year, I'd be farther along but work tied up my garage with a full load all summer, Thanks again Shawn W .) I got a few wires unmarked and nothing is taped up, just like it came out of the box, with out the SMJ. One wire question is, is it ok to run the ej fuel pump wire from the ej relay to the old fuel pump relay and keep those existing wires to power both pumps? Now where does the black wire from the ignition relay go? I lost the tag on it. Don't I keep the old starter wire? ok Ej power looks like this, help me out here...I'm guessing and without the right diagram. 1)constant, run and crank power - wire from ignition 2) pin11 b56 ground if ca model 3)pin 20 b48 ground if manual 4) tach - connect to fpcu - yellow wire 5)radiator 17 f47 using the stock radiator and wiring leaves no need to wire it? 6)temp ? cluster 7)oil ? cluster 8)cel - Gds spfi swap shows 1st pin on round connector is the ground and the bulb should be wire-able next to it 9)starter- 10 b56 should be wired to crank power 10)neutral 10 b58 to new switch mounted to top of clutch petal. Is this to ground after? 11)vss 11 B58 - reed switch on cluster pics according to GDs spfi swap yellow for the vss and black to ground 12)fuel pump - The Blue/red stripe wire in that (FPCU) connector goes out to the fuel pump......wire in you're power from the EJ pump relay to here. Easiest place to tap into that wire. Why is this so confusing to me? Oh, no cluster diagram! So I am praying to the Subaru gods for help!

There is a bolt on the clutch petal itself to adjust swing, or a switch, its your choice! IIRC its been a while on ea82s for me. But it should be the difference between non feedback and feedback and fi, shouldn't it?

SWMBO= she who must be obeyed:lol: I wouldn't be sucked into the couch like a couch potato if I had that toy to play with, I would be proving how indispensable it is to my wife who wanted me to sell it.

I was thinking that or just get out the velum and start tracing....I Think it was subman or mcbrat that uploaded a ton of subaru info like pics ads and articles once but I havent seen that for a while, since the new dark grey usmb platform.

Why would you take it apart? The scoop should be removable. Put tabs on it so you could just drop a justy on it fully stripped, If the wheel wells line up, just for show. Then you could sell it when yer done playing. Walk the kids around in the snow asking to do snow shoveling for $40 and when you get a yes from some grandpa ya just get-r-done and be off to the next house. It could pay for itself in no time in snow season. Swmbo is holding the potatos laziness against him, forcing him to sell. Don't let it be you! That sucker should be able to make money!

+1 for punch in the flywheel:grin:

I'd have a better time carving one than drawing one, different part of the brain I s'pose. Bump!

Has anyone seen one? I was thinking it would be sharp to color in some pages to solidify a paint job.

DUDE!!!!! No Brainer! UMMMMM........I might want to be next on that list.....or just to buy the motor and wiring....

Make your own. $17 bucks. There is a thread on it where you use 3-m window weld and make new forms out of tape. I believe cleaning is the pain, getting the old stuff off. I got two tubes but havent done it yet. You have to wait a good few days for them to harden.

Makes ten grand and warrantable work seem reasonable, doesn't it? I'm prolly $3gs into mine already I'm just short time and exhaust work. 5+5=donor, wiring, adapters. 5 fuel and driveline, 5 +2 motor rebuild, clutch and 2 trans and 2 misc, parts alone. Haven't done bearings, bushings, axles, brakes or shocks.

Now that is some rubber!

^^^^^Its good to remember you don't have that valve in your ea81. My ea81 wagon is a bit touchy in the rain, say, getting off at an offramp. Listening for the rear to lock up and the front not at all close to locking. Ea82s already have the valve.

The backfire sounds like a hole in your exhaust. So I was sittin at this coffee shop one snowy day (which is rare here), few years back and I see all these people going down this street that is blocked off, due to the snow, and every one of them slides out of control and hits this poor tree. I sat there for about a half an hour and must have seen 15 cars hit this tree. Some bouncing off it, some using it as an e-brake. So being the fool that I am, I gotta try it! Everyone else was doing it, right!? Well, I must have done something wrong because I never came close to that poor tree. As a matter of fact, I didn't slide once. My little subie just gripped the ground like it was dry. Just a little testimonial to the power of a subie and a good 4wd manual trans. Snow and city dwellers keep the auto industry alive in this town, I'll bet. I have never seen so many accidents and new cars all freshly beat up. I even got rear-ended once going up hill! Anyway....Welcome to the board!

I'll bet you'll love having a lifted roo in the amarilla winters! Say hi to the rollergirls down there for me!