Yo'J

I did that wrong once, hooking up a surge tank. If its the same as a USDM brat, the return is on the firewall by the trans tunnel and the lower fuel line in the corner by the strut tower is the vent. You can check by blowing on it to hear bubbling in the tank.

It took me two years to get all the parts together in a pile. Now its all in EXCEPT for good injectors and a good tune. I started in what? december? It still wont run right and my dd motor is slowly crapping out so its got a motor waiting, now freshly resealed.

The ea81s can need a valve adjustment every year if the motor is worn and is driven alot. Mine is that way at 230k. Get used to it. You should know it. That is why the hydro lifter motors are so much better, valve size not included. No rust? Might be quite worth it.

crawl under it?

No, tap it over to standard. GD has a great tutorial, it might be in someonelses thread but just search the forum and do them all at once with all thread. I did the headgaskets on my first car. Got it free. Lasted years.

I'm very interested in what you come up with on this as I'm putting together a new ea81 with a redline weber carb and I do want to figure it out. I was always wondering if you t-ed off the disty advance or used regular manifold pressure. Manifold pressure would (wouldn't it?) leave you "eating gases" at idle and "forcing air" at wot, were as off the disty its the opposite, allowing air to be eaten during advance conditions(wot) and at idle it would remain closed? I'm just guessing here, the ea81 works under the same conditions. With the weber you don't get a second vacuum port. With what your saying, Naru, about the vacuum switch, would that be for easier cold start and drive situations? Disabling the advance that is? I.e. Hoses, carb to T to disty and egr? Does that sound right? Or is it manifold to switch to egr for richer wot and leaner cruise? Going to the air cleaner bit, i don't know if its so much of a similar condition with a weber. I'm guessing its more of an off or on, not a partial opening situation with the aftermarket carb. With tuning to stoich, this is difficult to understand. To me there seems to be pros and cons on either side of this, my own personal argument here anyhow.

Just to add a note, I got a driveline from drivelines nw and they reused my brats driveline ends, put in new joints and fitted it with zerk fittings. I installed a 5spd. Handed it back to me at the end of the day, only problem....the paint was still wet.

Wait..isnt it magnetic? The IAC?

I'm not sure if it works this way in reality, but could it be clogged well enough to cause firing problems.....? Egrs can fill with carbon leaving no passage for breathing and some have separate head ports, some do not. I really don't understand the differences. Just that they are a pain to clean out.

$5 dollar rodda mis-tint equipment enamel! FTW! I 've had a sample on my car for a while now and it holds great! I'd spray it on though, in a booth. Its not forgiving on one coat.

I wouldn't block off all the head ports, those need to breath, the asv stuff fine, but the egr and breather tubes, no. Sounds like your on the right track. I'm still a little confused myself on the egr and the hose routing for proper exhaust gas eating capabilities. One way or the other, the egr doesn't hurt things from what I understand.

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree, maint What:Soobs and bicycles How long doing it: 8 years on cars 20 on bikes Other skills:all phase construction, trim and finish carpentry, fine woodworking and finishing, antique restoration. someday I'll do my first drawn and drafted classic chair design. I've built all my own furniture so far.

Nice boat btw! The car is sweet too!

If you think about it....thats probably right. Why do you drive one?

If its been sitting try some seafoam too. it should help absorb old bad gas. Nice score!

If its been sitting try some seafoam too. it should help absorb old bad gas.

Dont forget the trim piece! If there are two I want the trim off one!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 Try off road mods...

Id fix AND upgrade your grounds.....I've seen alot of issues stem from not enough grounding and go with an oem coil like GD says, the distys like to be spot on.

I love my 82 wagon! Webered, 2" lift on 235 14s, 5spd dr, rear disks w/ ea82 rear springs, outback seats w/ no rear seats, just a plyed deck w/ storage and sound and a wood rack. Its just as much fun as my ej-ed brat, just way different. Going from one to the other is a trip though! One is for fun(brat) and one is for work/snow/off road/getting dirty/work and work! One is like a lounge chair and the other is like a bar stool. If you have that many trucks you can put up another subie........If one is for parts...I'd bet you could find boxes to put them all in:grin:

50mm on the nose, funny I just had mine sitting there.

Have you pulled the fuel hose at the firewall in the engine bay at the fuel filter to see if it squirts while cranking yet? That will tell you it works. If it does, its the carb or disty or coil or plug wires. If you wired the pump in yourself, is its possible that the wires are reversed?

The oil fill tube gasket! While your cleaning .....right!? My front main needed replacing too^^, while your there you might as well.

Ahh, here is where on road vs.off road don't meet very well. Your lifted so, you got kybs, monroe or custom pricey coilovers for the road. You sure your rear shocks aren't just toast? Amazon is selling a 4 corner gr2 package for $143 no shipping.......

What are you trying to do?