Yo'J

Well, I was just looking at this old 82' ea81 thinking I might just clean it up too. Its got 235k on it, but $150 in head work and gaskets might just keep it on the road for a bit longer and I would love to have a good spare. I don't know if it would be worth any more of a rebuild, it always had low comp in cylinder#1.

I just yanked a solid lifter motor cover off and the pushrods in it have big caps on the ends. In the (supposed) hydro the pushrods have little balls pressed into the tips, so I think I answered my own question on that. They are aluminum though. I thought the firing order would yield the same results, I just don't know about cam differences. I still got a little bit of play in some rocker arms, Just a little bit of movement from the motor side of the pushrod. That will even itself out right? I just re tried adjusting intake#4 and maybe I didn't let it bleed out all the way, this time it set itself into a similar position as the rest, not adjusted all the way out to the end of its adjustment like before.

1/2" shorter! Get a thinner locknut?

I'd love a response on this.....I have aluminum pushrods with steel caps and valvecovers with a "do not adjust" sticker. In one of GDs posts there is a claim that hydros have one piece solid pushrods. Someone also has done a hg job on this motor before and left a few marks on the block. I was hoping I was first. Should I be concerned..? Do I just have fake covers? I was thinking about this adjustment thing all night. Is the same adjustment sequence for solid lifter motors "1324" applicable in the hydro sequence which it calls in the htkysa to use a "stage 1 then a stage 2" order. I just want to doublecheck my work.

Speaking of, htkysa has directions that are completely different from all of yours. His are 1.5 turns counter after you reach freeplay. Page 443. Whats the sequence you all are referring to?

The ea81 stuff is getting really rare here. The last of the goodies you find out here are rebuild-able, but, not really in good 'use-able' shape. I've seen the ea82 stuff get harder to find too. Its all new gen stuff 6-10 to 1 of the older.

So, I've adjusted the valves using the sequence from htkysa and I noticed some of the rockers have different tensions. In adjustment position, some are move able with your fingers some are tight. They all look like they are screwed in to the same or similar depth but intake#4, which is tight but almost out to the end of its travel. Since this set of heads has been to the shop, should I run the car to fill the valves with oil, to then, bleed them out and do a proper adjustment in something like 300miles?

If I remember right, Rgyver the guy from canada with the ej20ed awd brat made some shims and it popped in the brat but he didn't show any pics of it. I'm not sure but I think the ea82 angles are really close to the ea81s. The angles in the pics look about right to the experiment I posted about. I should still finish that some day:rolleyes: My pics didn't show it.

I thought it was strange that the haynes manual calls for it. I don't remember seeing it called for for the ea82 motor and definitely not for the ej.

Got the heads back from the machine shop today. The haynes manual says to apply sealant to the head gaskets. Do I use that recommended stuff on the permatorque gaskets? Dealer if so? I'm almost all clean and ready to assemble. I got one window of good weather this weekend.

:drunk:Mmmm! Big Wood fest... I pulled the motor today, I'll update cuz Im a pushrod noob. At least I got a free workshop table.

Outback, impreza, forester, the redone hatch back wrx. Just what subarus done for 2010, sure 2011 too. Like, aah, yaknow, fixing the newer cars rear end problem driving over 40 in the snow.... Ghostwalking that is. Subaruoutback.org poll

I had originally used a ground on the instrument panel as the ground. I had a few different ground lines set aside for the ecu and other functions, as to not put too many grounds on the same line, I used one of them instead.

The 2010 model year seems to be undiscussed and I want to know how it does in the snow. The 05-06 and up I hear have big problems maintaining safe speed on slushy or icy roads. Did any positive engineering happen for the 2010 year? I heard: 1) the interior is fully recyclable 2) the engine and trans have become interchangeable throughout models 3) toyota is working with subaru ....? what else

I would do it. Thats one of the coolest years. I got mine for a tad less yrs ago and I wouldn't trade it for a thing. Its worth the body for sure. Tow it to the ferry and drive it across, to tow it back home, but check all the above conditionals. My 82' has a blown head now and its not dead yet but shows all the signs to tell me not to go any farther. I would not make 20kilometers more in a trip without destroying the motor. The front brakes are 82 specific as is the wiring in a few select spots, the trim is specific, like bumpers but that third eye.......Mmmm! The water pump has weep holes that seep, for a water pump starter, the wire going to the radiator thermosensor when grounded turns on the fan, and your radiator fluid should look green not like a milkshake or smelling really burnt (whats the smell, its not sulfury but like hydrocarbons....?) or having bubbles in the radiator while running. Those aren't certain signs but they are starters. My motor now leaks coolant from the head on the top of the block and is just now running warm, coolants fine, but will suck oil just sometimes after a good trip. Well anyway, I'd buy it regardless.

Well I checked everything and It seems ok under the dash. I wired the vss ground through the dash previously and I don't know how well the dash grounds so I re-grounded it just for good measure. My knock sensor wasn't too many ft/lbs over tightened and I havent had a chance to clear the codes, maybe tonight.

One step at a time, this is my fuel routing every thing else is stock. view surge tank I'm gonna pull the dash to double check the wiring. I'll post as I go. I've kept good notes so it shouldn't take to long.

I have a knock sensor code, or I did, but I have a brand new knock sensor. I took it to where I bought it from and tested it against another one with a good fluke III meter, tests right on. I haven't gone 100 miles yet in this thing so i'm not sure whats going on. I got brakes and an alignment to do as well, so I havent gone as far as I want to on this swap. Its the symptom that really flusters me.

Subarutex, I'll check to make sure and draw it, give me a day. Rguyver, it should be hooked up fine. I'll double check everything. I'm looking into a garage or I building a tent this week. I'm not getting stranded now. My dd wagon just took a dump too, but one has to run.

I'm running two pumps on the same line for a surge tank, would a lack of pump power cause this? Iac was replaced, should work, tps test out, pvc is tested, maf cleaned but I have a spare.

I need someone to hold my hand on this. I've never had a ea81 head off. Kind of exciting. I have a 87 hydro lifter motor w/140k on it that hasn't overheated bad yet and I need the car fast. Fel pro gaskets are on order. I know I'll need a special socket or spacers for tightening but I'm more worried about the adjustments to the rocker assemblies. Can I just take the whole assmy. off in one piece? If I need resurfacing, to what spec do I reset the valve rockers? Thanks in advance!

I took my brat out for a spin yesterday and I have one last issue with it. I noticed that when you drive it to a high rpm and, say, stop at a light, the idle starts to fluctuate and then slowly smooths out. It killed the car twice. It won't do it while driving like a surge or anything, just after reving the motor above 3000-3500. Fluctuation is between 800 and 400 wobbles about four times and then mellows back to normal. Is this a common fuel pump dieing issue? I'm using a larger bodied fuel pump (?) from a spfi or mpfi loyale, used of course. I'm worried it might cause detonation if there isn't enough fuel. The motor is a 90ej22.

Well I stand corrected. I don't have mine hooked up right now but I went through the trouble to test it with the motor off, so that must be why I thought that.. Thanks! My swapped brat still has a few issues before its a runner and I want to change a few things and add the much needed skid plates for the front and for the fuel pump area that I put a surge tank in. I did take it around the block today though. Brakes and an alignment, new heated seats and stereo!

Heck, the dealer sells one...

Scott, Your a hoot! That rig is awesome! I would love to know more about the toyota rear. Happy Turkey Day! Oh, if the gauge drops, you have no oil. I wired mine into the engine bay I don't know where your is but if you disconnect the wire it slams to zero. Kinda nice to know what it does.