Yo'J

^^AS LONG AS THE MOTOR IN YOUR DONOR IS GOOD! After I pulled mine, I found the all wrong injectors, two wrong kinds, faulty iac and tps, messed with throttle body w/ screwdriver marks??, blown head gaskets, and it just goes to show, test the donors then get the good donor, fix it, THEN, strip it. I've been pulling my hair out!!!!! I'm still trying to buget this. Free at this point is too expensive! Don't give yourself the crash course in engine electronics like I did.....and others have done.( I hope I'm not the only fool like that:grin: I feel like I am)......... If I had only known then what I know today...... Well, I thought the sellers were dumb enough to not mess with things, but boy was I wrong. The trans was toast so it wasn't driveable and I'm still (toast)!. I'm about to start from scratch as it might be cheaper! We'll see.

And here I thought it might be something more complicated..... "I'm at my wits end......"

As long as your donor engine is in top shape in the original car() it should be very straight forward. If its not, thats where your problems can compound.

Check your grounds as well. Are you sure your not off a tooth on your timing?

Your way better at this than I could be and I know you have a lot more experience than I do. Could you have an advance or vacuum problem in one of your restricted lines? The ones with the little plugs. I know they get clogged. I just remember them being there and I'm not remembering where they go right now. I'm assuming no leaks and its not oil related and your o2 sensor is good. All sensors and thermo switches are normalish. Anti-freeze smells normal. Cat?

Funny thread, about this time in my life, my moms trans dies, I got to fix it of course, week after that I blow a HG and have to swap engines in my daily driver. So, how it turns so fast into another whole can of worms? I dont know. Axles, wiring probs, carbie settings, brakes (4wd ea82 sedan rear struts maybe). I'm tuning now, happily.

How bout this..... can you feel the wires in the harness that rub on the battery shelf? Its where the crimp is for the power I believe. That is a very messed with wire in that bundle. You always move it for an overhaul of almost any kind. Im about to strip the whole thing a foot in either direction and repair every wire I got probs with. I got a rainy day short and no side markers and a fan you wiggle that same wire to turn on. I've gotta do it this week. Your in an xt? It shouldnt be so different from my wagon.

heck, I got a brand new dizzy with a bad module a month old... does the tach move while cranking?

Everybody forgets a valve adjustment. Just do it every year or just check. Its the cost of the valve covers but its really so important for mileage and the life of the motor. I needed to do it to my old motor at every 20000 or less(every year) just to keep it in tune. It really makes a difference if its not a hydro lifted motor. Its really good to get the valve wrench too as a regular wrench doesn't do as nice a job and wants to slip and goober the square head. I always watched the mileage and drivability (sp?) suffer if I wasn't prompt on it. I'd just (almost) bury the needle with my 5spd and 26.5r14s (on the flats of course), thats about 95 or a (very little) more.

One thing I have noticed is the some shafts have a ring holding the (?) inner race on, and, some have a ridge on the shaft to keep the race in place. Dunno if that is a factory vs. aftermarket factor but as far as longevity is concerned, the one with the ridge doesn't blow out as fast.

Its been a number of years since I had that 2wd 85 wagon with its craptachi, but it died with the shift up light coming on at just over 1500 rpms IIRC. I always laughed at it knowing it was wrong....obviously. I was my first car and might have been a Cali car, I just dont remember. It never did run right, but, it would run like a bat out of hell( for what it was) once it was moving. Came close but the carb just always came into play on startup and really low rpm driving. That was way before I found this place. Had I only known back then..... Might be an '85 only thing?

Welcome to life....I'm here with ya! ....Replace moms trans, work party out of town, blow hg on the way home, finish extra motor, install new motor, wedding way out of town, fix hangover, wait... thats just the last 2.5 weeks and rents due! Ahh life...I swear after 8hrs of wedding dishes my hands still arent clean and I got a thumb nail thats about to NOT grow back from slamming the nail bed on that damn honda knuckle of my moms. I heard there are flowers somwhere.....

Thats way better than just adding to the support runners that come stock on some subies. I'm liking that!

I'd bet with a wide band a/f sensor and meter and a pro tune you'll keep that thing running tops. Do you know any roo nuts near you that could give you a hand? Vapor lock is kind of strange.

I got some hi-po clutch in my wagon and its a little jerky and unforgiving. I'm blowing axles, just wearing them out on the inner joint. I put a stock xt6 clutch in my ejed brat and it does much better so far. Of course I have to disclaim my brat still needs tuning, injectors and some trouble shooting, so I'm not running at full potential, but, its not like its just 'on or off' like my wagon.

If you try to un-screw the egr port on the weber carb you'll see its really a tiny screw in the tip of the nipple for your egr. Simple.

Something I noticed, besides the cables breaking easily, is the factory A/C box has a different air passage configuration. It moves air at the top as well. My brat came with A/C and I pulled the it and the box out due to mice and found afterward that the defrost is highly superior to my other wagon that just uses the left to right air tube. You do lose alot of room behind the dash but unless you need it for your extra power converter or ej harness it would go unused anyway. As for your control box goes, its worth a good visual inspection to make sure all the linkages open and close things all the way. If the foam flap cover wears off it could be in some part of the system somewhere blocking something and the flapper would need readjustment for the missing foam piece. Mine was wrapped around the A/C unit with mice bedding. Wooopie!

Whats the difference between a body lift and a suspension lift? With a suspension lift, wouldn't you be able to utilize 'less' of your range of travel, and with a body lift, you 'potentially' could gain 'more' travel? Just looking at the axle in motion and thinking out loud.

Ha, I just did this. I was told to never put sealant on cork, but in the book it says to put sealant on both sides of the oil pan gasket. (?) But you prolly dont want to put sealant on the valve cover gaskets as you might want to take them off again to adjust your valves unless its a hydro lifter motor. The intake should just be clean and dry and oem.

if your going to weld...... do it once. Make a strut top. Do it wrong, you do it twice, why make it three? I'm really glad you are contributing to the usmb by saying how not to do things. That takes confidence. Its a good thing, but its like a ladder, you shouldn't try to climb higher than than it goes. On the job, you fall off the ladder, you are fired before you hit the ground. (YOUR FIRED!) If the ladder falls with you on it.....(they sue the ladder company for lost employee time) they pay for not checking you out to ensure your saftey, not being your Mom enough. Says the frog to the grasshopper....

I was getting 26mpg with a 2" lift on 26.5s (till I blew a head) ea81 wagon. I'm sticking with the float sticking, they do. Mine froze stuck in shipping. Its easy, some people lose the little ring clip on the linkages but a small screwdriver and a small forceps work great for not losing it. If you do, wire. I like the webers directions, (fpr), the return is a good idea as the float wont handle more than 3.5lbs..... and you have a drip even when you turn it off you say?..... tested the exact pressure yet?

O.K. float doesnt make it through shipping. Re-adjust. Look it up. Simple. You need to know it. Pressure regulators, the $100 redline one works like a champ. I've had problems with the other $30 or less kinds. Stuck on the side of the road kinds. Bow Wow, Auto zone, Online? Call Jim Greens(?) in monroe. They just moved there. You are there, I put a fuel return on my weber. I don't know if it makes a difference really yet, but it might save you the regulator if you watch your lines and pull out the little one way valves for more flow.

I'm not sure about the up pipe, but on the ps lines, its about where the lines go through and the removable plate on the bottom of the ps crossmember. On the non ps crosmember it is welded on with spot welds. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106213&highlight=power+steering Pics here Someone knows about the up pipe part

This is way better than reality tv!

There is a cable that goes from the back of the knob to a lever under the dash by the drivers right shin. Its a push style cable and the housing likes to crack. If you reach all the way under, past the air up pipe/tube you will feel/see the actuator arm. If you push it towards the front it will close the door and give you solid heat. If you follow the arms and cables you'll figure it out. Good luck. I left mine like that and just reach under to move the lever.:-\