Yo'J

Thanks GD I'm gonna drop a 150 main jet in today (the store was out of 145s) and see if it picks up better. I think, if I'm processing this correctly, that might get my fuel up a little. I'm getting a little bit of confusing info here though. I was told at the store I got my jets at that the idle jets work up to about 2500rpm and the air corrector jets work to compensate at really high rpms, I don't know what that means. Now its pretty obvious that the secondaries work over 2/3rds throttle. So what rpm s do the air bleeds affect things at? Is this a tangible figure? I would assume air would flow regardless depending on the valve/intake... speed.

Well Now I think my fuel gauge is broken! Jskddn! 188miles and just over half a full tank! Now I guess I need to figure out the rest of the readings. I'm not sure what to think of the cruise mixture. While running to bellingham at 70 along the flat it would cruise slightly rich if I was accelerating. BUT If I just maintained speed it was totally off the scale lean. On acceleration up hills it was lean aswell, well, not jamming my foot to the floor. After I got back it was Idleing a little rich. I do have some hesitation in the low end. So I'm thinking lean. I'll reajust today and get a longer reading at 30-35. The hardest part of getting a reading is that I have only seen the gauge settle slightly rich or way lean. It has not ever sat stoich centered, just close on idle. If you blow on the screw too hard it would change from rich to lean. I'll count my turns out today. PS I got a cheapy sunpro with leds instead of a dial. Seems sensitive enough. I just woke with a headache and might not be explaining things to clearly. I hope the air quality clears up!

So what does it take to make water and hydrogen combine? Must be a lot:rolleyes: ! If you can make a quart of water and show me it took "no" energy, then, you can say there is no energy stored in water. Its just waiting to be tapped! BUT! It takes fire! Fire needs Fuel! Fuel drives my car! It makes the world go round! Its time to make the blinders disappear, turn off the tv, step out into the universe as we are a real species! (and vote third party?)..... I do believ the theory is sound and people are buying the "mileagemaker.com" one and getting great results. My only real question is why not make one instead of buying one?

O.K. fuel/air meter installed! Looks like I was running rich a bit on idle. (The air fuel screw is quite the delicate object isn't it?) Its a little too sensitive on the first drive around the block, I think I should take it for a good drive see how it does. Maybe to Bellingham! So question, some how its supposed to tell me my cruise mixture but, only if I'm not accelerating or decelerating, Right? So like on a long flat at a constant speed. I don't know if Im ready for a lesson of how the jets work with the idle jets (although that might be the easy part) and the air corrector jets, the three together and the primary vs. the secondarys, but I'm willing to try if anyone else is. How does the float level get involved in there too? To experiment is to learn. I remember experimenting:rolleyes: ... and learning:rolleyes: ... and it was fun:banana: !

Doesn't one go to the heater assy. and one to the brake booster?

Now that is the way to find good jetting! I'll get one of those!

O.K. the rack is pretty slimline, I did o.k. work. its cedar and light weight. I don't drive like a grandpa but I try to keep it under 4000 rpm. Most of the time I'm driving in town with lots of stops and short runs. Working in town here is a driving pit of hell. I'll do wheel lube and check the brakes out. As far as a rejet goes, its clean in there. What should I jet too, or should I just clean them anyway. Whats good settings for the float, economy and/or offroad?

Hmmm I got the brakes inspected when I got it. I'll check again. I put new calipers on the back... whatever they are called for drums, the "actuator". Tires are good. The hill holder is bad and needs to be replaced or fixed, I have a replacement already....If its bad, like, not working, it wouldn't stay on, would it?

Well seems fine. Just adjusted it a month ago to be sure. Sparkplug? Would it fit? That would look cool, not something to wire though...jskddn! Better than wasting a good 02 sensor.

For a little bit of history. When I picked up the car it wouldn't idle at all, but its a subie. 15 min and the plugged crap came off and I drove it home, swapped the weber. At first it melted plugs and the disty rattled like a spray can. It drove with a black cloud behind it and got 10mpg due to old lines and a manifold leak. New gaskets and hoses, now, 20, is way better but not good enough. The old owner didn't know what he was doing and rewired over shorts and killed the interior like a slob. The uhaul toe hitch its got was wired loose over the muffler and was attached with coat hanger wire, rusty, coat hanger wire. Oil was everywhere, the rear seatbelts were a sponge and the seats came out as soon as it was home. Its a two seater now with a lumber rack. Runs and starts fine with no shorts but it has been a long haul.

O.K.the air is 170 and 160, the idle is 60 and 50. The o2sensor I had extra, the old one looked like a ball of moss.

I want to jump into this...I have a weber dgev on my 82 wagon and I can't seem to get better than 20mpg. Its almost to 220,000, and the compression isn't that good. I've replaced everything, 5speed d/r tranny, front axels, rear bearings, manifold from a 85', coil, disty, filters, new holly fuel regulator, inline pressure gauge running at 2.75lbs, plugs, o2 sensor, wires, hoses, alt, starter, radiator and yesterday, starter switch, my primary and secondary jets are 140 and I feel bad about the mileage. No leaks found unless its in the dash on the heater stuff. I haven't completed the search there but I don't hear anything and the temp maintains itself perfectly. I have slight hesitation when cold and not that much power till its warm and then only around 3000rpm. What should I have for jets and what should the timing be? It doesn't change for webers right? Its at 8btdc now. The float is adjusted to factory and I don't understand the variations in float leveling. The float was way off from factory, I got the kit for my deceased ea82. (I wasn't going to put on a third set of heads) I pulled the egr system and blocked off the hole. All the stuff had busted hose bibs and I was recommended to do so (from some site before I found all you). pcv stuff is all there. I do now have a full extra set of manifolds though for different years. Mostly I assume my motor is old and almost shot. But if I'm missing something I want to know. I would love to figure out this motor before I do myself an ej swap and lift. I feel like I wouldn't have learned a thing.

Yeah! I pulled out a few cars in my 87 wagon! A newer s10 and a 2006 honda crv! Should have seen the look on their faces when I got them out! You cannot move a 20 yard dumpster on dry concrete, even empty, though,....maybe on snow, like the others.....

http://video.aol.com/video-detail/water-fuel-car-unveiled-in-japan/3934702477

I just melted a piece of it on my router table, it was the base insert. The vibration from the 3" bit I was using caused a bit of heat as I tuned the speed by ear. I'm glad I noticed before I lost the whole router on the floor while running. 3" is a lot of cutter at 25,000 rpm. I can see why the harmonics could cause that much heat in a router table, and not in a subaru! I'm game, I keep that stuff around for jigging. Might be able to make it look nice too! Thanks

"Look into Acrylic/Lexan. You can buy thin pieces at lowes in the plexyglass isle. You can "glue" the glass together and make whatever size cell you want. " I thought lexan melted to easily. I think that might be the ticket though!

I'm in! I can drive up too.

Hi Ya'll, I just wanted to throw some names out there too! I'm a left leaning capitalist republican who votes democrat reads progressive and has voted libertarian and socialist, once catholic, who went unitarian, yoga nut job and ponders Zen Buddhisms while meditating and loves Jewish history! I want to run my car on water and I wonder if, with enough HHO gas could you ignite diesel or vegetable oil, like you would with a glow plug, but in a normal gasoline engine? You know ....just to get off of gas and have some more alternatives. I'm buying my parts already! Who has found a good box to run the electrolysis chamber in? I'm looking for a 4"x4" by 8" or 10" seal able container and I was hoping for clear. I just don't want a rubbermaid pos. I was also thinking Nalgene bottles but the shape makes it harder and smaller so I would have more of a plumbing mess. Has anyone with a running HHO system noticed a loss of a few horses due to the alt?

Yeah! I hear that! It can't be that hard! It seems to me it could be cheap to build but laborious to pay for! Bless the Weber!

Dear God....

Hi, to all the people fighting to understand where this HHo generator thing comes from here is the link to the main article. The first page is a great eye opener to those who nay say. Remember, the first real working light bulb is still burning and hasn't burnt out. I havent seen one on a car yet, but I want to. http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/index.html Chapter ten has a couple of HHO generators. You can also google "HHO generator" and find tons of info.

Napa's like $45 and you have to bring in the inch measurement.

I'm down with a 2"lift and a full EJ swap kit as my donor is an auto! I'd have it already but I havent had the time to run up there, so on price, I'm always looking for a deal. Oh I just need to get the EA82 power steering crossmember for my EA81 and I am hoping the lift can accommodate that. It plug and play from there right?

I wonder if the water vapor system could work as well like its claimed. I'm glad we are all here, unafraid to do our own mods, unafraid to do things out of the norm. 100% HHO running cars seems to me to be something way off as it would take an independent starting system, assuming you could really run without gas. I wouldn't want to try to engineer that. I'm just interested in better economy/less emissions. I think car manufacturers are afraid to try these little improvements thinking its too far from the norm for folks to understand. If you have a problem and your car explodes, a short with a spark and a leak, for example, they would have to fix it. Imagine Volvo, with more breakable, over engineered parts that they, the dealers, have to try to get to work right in the first place. I would hate to be one of those guys! Their own dealers call the new ones crap.

SO whose system works best? I got to get a line on this....I want the links!