
The Dude
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Everything posted by The Dude
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Frankly, I don't have any direct experience with the H6. However, if they are anything like the H4, the oil pressure builds very rapidly after an oil change. I suspect that you may have a problem with the engine or your oil changing procedure. I prefill the oil filter myself, but I consider it to be almost an unnecessary affectation in most cases. I doubt that a dry filter alone would normally cause a dry bearing type noise. And you're right, one of the big pluses of the boxer engine should be an extremely short "dry" run time after an oil fill or sitting all night.
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There is open global warfare between car manufacturers. There is way, way too much global car manufacturing capacity. It's a cut throat buyer's market for the most part. One way car manufacturers compete is on horsepower. Even though the average car buyer is about as knowledgeable as a sand worm on the topic of horsepower, he instintively knows that "more is better". The bottom line on all this? Most manufacturers have already wrung out all the usable horsepower from their engines. Squeezing significantly more horsepower out of most modern stock engines is neither cheap or easy. Subaru engines already produce tons of horsepower for their displacement. More importantly, that horsepower and torque comes on strong at relatively low rpms. Everytime I read about someone spending wads of cash on an aftermarket intake manifold or headers, I cringe. Mucho dollares for muy poco horsepower. Instead, spend some of that money on a better grade of car wax. It's a lot cheaper, and at least you'll be able to see some improvement.
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I've noticed the same thing. The factory installed plugs can take a surprizing amount of force to remove. It almost feels like there is grit in the threads. I use plenty of anti-seize when installing replacements. Do as you wish, but I have found that a set of plugs is good for at least 60,000 miles in the 2.5L. In fact, the 2.5L DOHC was speced for 60,000 mile spark plug changes just because they were so difficult to get at.
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I asume that your Legacy has the infamous 2.5L DOHC "Phase I" engine. Do a search on "head gasket failure", "Phase I" , or " 2.5L DOHC". There have been a huge number of threads on 2.5L DOHC Phase I head gasket failures. I hope that you have not suffered a head gasket failure. In any event, you are wise not to drive the car until the overheating problem has been resovled. Warped heads or a cracked block will only add to your woes.
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First off, you should be comparing Subaru to other AWD vehicles, not one axle driven cars. Additionally, even when compared to other "mini-SUVs" Subarus have a higher, sometime much higher, towing capacity. These are tough, very capable multi-use vehicles. They were not designed for maximum MPG. Get one of those high mileage Honda Civics and see how much they hold, tow, and go in the snow. An overall MPG of 22 isn't great, but it isn't exactly a poke in the eye with a dirty stick either. Don't expect a significant increase in MPG. If you want a huge increase in MPG replace the car, not the O2 sensors. I get about 25 mpg overal in my 06 Forester. That's with the new trick cam. If I go to a more fuel effecient vehicle my 2,000 lbs sailboat won't be leaving my driveway.
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Thank you for your eloquent explanations on the 90/10 power split of the Suby AT. Actually, you have answered yet another question of mine. I have always wondered why a major car manufacturer would seek to purchase Subaru's AWD technology. You might imagine that a major automotive player would prefer to delevop that technology in house. Obviously, putting together the right sensors and more importanly, the proper algorithms, could be quite a task.
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If have another question on the Suby AT, if anyone would care to answer it. Most Suby AT models normally have 90%/10% front/back drive distribution. How does the car "know" that it has achieved a 90%/10% split% Are there any sensors involved? Is this a live, continuous feed back adjustment using the TCU, or is the AT just mechanically set for a nominal 90%/10% split?
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I don't know about the other models, but my 06 Forester has only ONE keyed door lock. So, the remote and actuators better work dependably. About four months ago, I brought my 06 to the dealership because the actuator in the passenger side front door was intermittenly failing. The mechanic was unable to get the actuator to fail, so no repair. Last week, the acuator in the passenger side rear door completely failed. I was lucky, because the acuator failed at 35,131 miles, just inside warranty. Now that I had a "hard" failure on the rear door actuator, I was able to press my case for replacement of the intermittent unit in the front door. The parts are still not here. I wonder if they're possibly in short supply because Subaru had a bad run of actuators? Anyway, beware of this potential problem, because I'm sure that they are not cheap to replace out of warranty. I'll be extremely disappointed if any of the other three actuators fail anytime soon.
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First off, you ABSOLUTELY can hold Subaru of America responsible for the actions of one of their AUTHORIZED dealers. Otherwise, "authorized" means nothing. Second, hold onto that head gasket. The dealer had an obligation to use the latest rev gasket. If you can't get satisfaction from SOA, you may be able to sue the dealer. It your claims are true, it sounds like unbelievably sloppy and lazy work on the part of the dealer.
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Not necessarily true, Grossgary. If the girlfriend's car was fully stopped, like it would be at a red stop light, she's probably has no legal responsibility to the car in front of her. The car hit by the girlfriend's car probably can sue the driver who hit her. I know what I am talking about. I was the lead car in a three car "chain collision". I had stopped, the car behind me had stopped. The Bozo who plowed into car behind me, which then rear ended me, PAID for the repairs on all three cars. The driver of the car which had fully stopped behind me had NO legal liability. He was a victim of the accident, just like me.
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Ok, time to drain the diffs in my 06 Forester. Breaking the drain/fill plugs is usually the worst part of the job. Please, what size square drive to use? My 1/2" rachet looks pretty loose in the drain plug. Given the huge amount of torque usually required to beak loose the plugs, I'm afraid that I might strip the square drive hole on top of the plugs. Move to a metric square dirive? If so, what size? Thanks. I like my '06 Forester, but it's a lot less maintenance friendly than my '99 Forester. Gas filter is now in the gas tank. The oil filter is surrounded by the exhaust pipes. And the drain plugs on the rear diff have restricted access due to the tail pipe.
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That would be 2.5 top up quarts of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. Sure, it's normal. NOT. Less than one quart would be more like it. Also, this car has the infamous head gasket spittin' 2.5L Phase I engine. This engine also has the guaranteed to leak plastic separater plate. The engine must be removed to replace the plastic plate with the upgraded metal replacement. I wouldn't buy the car unless I could get it cheap, cheap, cheap. And even then, only if I was able, and willing, to do my own engine overhaul. It could be a "hobby" car.
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It's not an answer to your question, but have you considered replacing the head unit with one that will work with a MP3 player? Sooner or later, electro-mechanical devices like CD changers ALWAYS break. Buy a nice MP3 ready head unit and then swap it out when you get new car. My MP3 player has more than 40 albums on it. It makes a 6 CD changer look like small potatoes. Plus, you can play podcasts in the car.
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I don't think it's any secret that new cars usually come from the factory with just barely adequate tires. Frequently, tires have their own warranties and are not covered under the new car bumper-to-bumper warranty. I know it seems cheap, but you got about half the life that you could expect from a good set of tires. Subaru is offering to make you whole by replacing two tires without charge. From Subaru's perspective why should you benefit from 22,000 miles of free tire use? In fact it's to your benefit to replace the tires asap. Because, if the new set starts wearing abnormally you can be almost certain that it's a mechanical roblem with your car. And you will have found the problem while the car is still under warrranty.
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I don't think you've found the the problem anyway. Maybe part of the problem. It don't see how a high ECU output would cause an ignitor transistor to fry. The fire "blip" is so short in duration there is no meaningfull change in duty cycle. In fact, the failed ignitor transistor may have caused the ECU to fail. It would suspect something on the load side of the ignitor transistor, not upstream to the ECU.
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Don't ignition coils usually fire on a collapsing coil field? In others words, current is always running through the primary UNTIL the ECU calls for an ignition spark. Then the current is turned off, the field in primary coil collapses and induces high voltage in the secondary coil. Since the primary is only 12VDC the secondary is a step up coil with many, many windings. Since the ignitor transistor is in the primary circuit no flyback diode is needed. Any voltage re-induced into the primary coil from the secondary would be stepped down.
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I put 200,000 miles on the wheel bearings in my 1999 Forester without even hearing one chirp. I wish I could say it was my impecable driving skills, but the snow and salt free winters here, in South Carolina, get all the credit. I used to live in the snow belt, and I'll have to say the Sun belt is much, much easier on a car. BTW, I think you'll find that rear differential failure is preety rare for a Subaru. You'll know if you get it, the deafening roaring from a worn rear diff often makes a car undriveable.
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Sure, the thermostat is missing. This car has been overheating for a while. The first thing many people would try to stop the the overheating is to replace or remove the thermostat. Obviously, for some reason, the previous owner of this car did not want to spend $1,500 USD to replace the head gaskets in this car. Since the car otherwise APPEARS to be in excellent condition you have to wonder why? Are there other unknown problems with this car that caused the previous owner to not spend the money for the head gaskets? BTW, $4,200 is way under the Kelly Blue Book retail valuation for this car. There may be a good reason for that as well. The poster bought a car "as is" with out having a mechanic first thoroughly check out the car. That may turn out to be a costly decision. It Alabama state laws permit it, I would return the car. If that is not possible, it might be worthwhile to have a mechanic check out this car before contemplating any expensive repairs.
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You might want to check your state laws. In SOME states a licensed used car dealer must provide a minimum warranty. If you're are able to do the work yourself, I would just have the heads checked and replace the gaskets. Even if the block is cracked, which is unlikely, you wouldn't be out much for parts. USE GENUINE SUBARU HEAD GASKETS ONLY- THE LATEST REV. I don't don't know anything about the particular dealership you purchsed the car from. But I have to say, I wish I had a nickel for everytime someone has posted that he bought a Phase I Subaru from a dealership and the car just happened to overheat on the way home. Sometimes, the poor guy has the car towed home or back to the dealeship with the front wheels in the air. Now, he's got a car with a screwed engine and a screwed AT as well. Did you get an operator's manual with the car?
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The new 5EAT AT uses a very difficult to find AT fluid. That's a well known fact. But recent model year Subarus with the 4EAT AT ALSO require the same rare stuff. In point of fact, my 06 Forester requires the same "special" ATF that's about as easy to get as lizard milk. So....... Genuine Subaru AT Fluid Type-HP is a permanent fluid. Under "normal" driving conditions it never needs to be changed. Are you guys "buying this"? Are you willing to bet your tranny on this new AT fluid? Also, if you get an AT leak on the road with the new 4EAT GOOD LUCK finding Type-HP or Castrol Transmax J at a service station or auto parts store. Break down on a Sunday, and you're probably stuck until Monday when the closest Subaru dealer opens up. The "old" 4EAT worked really well. Change the Dextron 3 every 30,000 miles, and drive the car forever. Subaru "fixed" something that wasn't broken. Whatever you do, don't let anyone put Dextron 3 in your late model 4EAT, because it will ruin it. Yeah, I'm sure there's absolutely NO chance that one of these "quicky lube" places might put Dextron 3 in your tranny. Yeah, rest easy.
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I have to question your advise in this occasion. The in radiator cooler operates on a fluid-to-fluid heat exchange which is many times more effective than the fluid-to-air heat exchange of the add on cooler. An add on cooler is just that, an add on. It can only be used to provide relatively modest amounts of additional cooling. An add on cooler should never be used in place of the in radiator cooler. You would end with considerably less cooling capacity as the result. Your AT would become one big deep fryer on wheels. Do you want fries with that tranny? Not me.