Bigbusa

Good question larry. Lemme know if you find out! I'd love to install keyless entry on my 96 obs.

I just installed 4 monroe struts on my 96 obs. It took me 1.5 hours per strut. They're not cheap though. $90 each for the rears and $80 each for the fronts. Looking on ebay... the KYBs are slightly cheaper even with shipping costs. I don't know if they're better. I'm really happy with the monroes ...with a lifetime warranty too.

Sweet! I already bought em. I couldn't pass up the deal. $100 for 4 with the nokian WR tires. I figured if they didn't fit my OBS I'd put em on the 06 impreza 2.5i

My brother was following a flatbed that was towing a subaru awd on the back. The front wheels were on the lift and the back wheels were on the road. It wasn't long before both rear wheels locked up and left 2 long skid marks until the dumba$$ tow truck driver pulled over. He couldn't believe the driver towed it that way! Are you in Maine by any chance?! Maybe this is the same poor suby that he was following?

Will these fit on my 1996 impreza outback sport? My obs has 185/70/14 stock size alloys on it now.

I had the same code on my 96 obs. I replaced many things but it eventually turned out to be a simple, easily fixed, problem... the EGR valve was slightly dirty. Take it out, wash it as best you can and wire brush the inside of it and you'll probably be all set.

I wonder if they'll really give you back the $80 for the product? Why not just have the mechanic redo the head gaskets. He obviously didn't do it correctly the 1st time. You paid him for the job right? You didn't get your moneys worth.

looks good. got any before pics of it

I wouldn't replace them unless they were rusting away. If it's just surface rust, spray them all with wd40 a few times a year. They'll be fine.

thanks guys I installed 4 new struts, front rotors, pads, right front caliper and had an alignment this week. It's driving like a new car now... except for the damned torque bind.

Hey guys, what's involved in removing the rear drive shaft? I think I'm gonna do that for a temporary fix until I'm ready to fix the selenoid and clutches. thanks

I've got 5000 miles on my "crappy, cheap, aftermarket" ebay TimingBelt and WaterPump kit. It's a 2.2L engine. I did the work myself. I'd recommend replacing all the pulleys and the tensioner as well as the camshaft seals and valve cover gaskets while you're in there. Even if the pulleys seem fine and your seals aren't leaking (yet)... they're cheap so replace them. You're never gonna be any closer so do it all at once.

nipper I wasnt being disrespectful. I was just saying that I can't spend that kind of money on my old car. I'm a cheapskate. That's why I own an old subaru.

Oh no. No dealers for me. I've learned my lesson too many times. If you want something done right (and inexpensively), do it yourself. I think I read on the other thread that you had a dealer fix your TB issues for $1000? I can't dump that kind of money on a 13 year old 184k mile car. Especially when I need to buy 4 new strut shocks (close to $400) and install them myself in the near future. Maybe I can't check the codes but from what I've read here, the torque bind symptoms all point to the duty C selonoid. I'll head in that direction.

hmmm, I guess I can't diagnose it through that method. Thanks though! If anyone else has any ideas I'd be interested. I'll take some pics of the connector tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I have the right one because it has the 2 ground wires taped to it and it's a 6 pole connector. :-\

thanks porc. Just for kicks I grounded holes #1 and #2. #1 made the airbag light flash. #2 and #5 do nothing. I'm kinda lost here. I have the AT temp light flashing 16 times ...indicating a problem, but I don't know how to extract the code. :-\

Hmmm, That would make sense. My car is a 96. Since this black connector has the 2 ground wires with the long pins on the ends taped to it... it still must be the connector I would use to check the AT temp codes right? I must have to stick one of the ground pins in the #1 or the #2 holes then? I've already ruled out the #5 hole. :-\

I printed the above pic and took it out to my car. I finally found the black 6 post connector. It wasn't connected to anything. I assume it is not supposed to be? There are only 3 wires going into the connector. a wire goes in the #1 and 2 positions on the top outside corners and then the 3rd wire (green with yellow stripe) goes in the #5 position. In the pic above it shows many more wires than just 3 going into the connector. The black connector on my car is quite a bit smaller and more square than what the above pic shows but It did have the 2 ground wires taped to it though. I assume I have the correct connector? I first stuck one ground wire pin into #5 hole and my AT temp light did nothing other than what it's always done (16 flashes on start up). I tried it with the key on, off and with the car running. Then, I tried the 2nd ground and still nothing. Then I tried both grounds jammed into the #5 terminal and nothing. The only thing my AT temp light does is flash 16 times and then stops. I cannot get it to give me the long and short flashes so I can figure out what code it is putting out. Am I doing something wrong here?

Great thread. Thanks for all the info here. My 96 impreza OBS will be happy I found this thread! I'll be diving into the repairs within the next few weeks. My only question is where is the best place to buy the parts? The selonoid, the gaskets and whatever else I'll need to fix this torque bind. I'd like to buy the parts from someone who knows exactly what parts I'll need when I tell them I'm replacing the duty C selonoid.

I bet mine looks like this too

I've been reading this thread here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=steamin53&page=3 and am learning a lot. On page 3 now. My AT temp light does flash 16 times. I need to figure out how to read the codes. More searching to come! I love this site. It's all here if you just search and read. You guys helped me with the replacing of my timing belt and water pump too. And you all helped me with the BYB lift kit on my 86 brat. Porc u might remember it here. I posted many pics of it maybe 5-6 years ago. It was Tan and usually had a low white cap on it. Big 27.5 inch white lettered A/T tires. I wish I never sold that brat! That was a cool vehicle.

Thanks guys. So this is a problem inside my tranny but I don't have to drop the tranny to fix it? What would I expect to pay for good used parts? And new? The tranny fluid temp light does flash when I 1st start the car but it goes off within a couple seconds. It never comes on while driving. So I could just remove the rear driveshaft and solve all my problems?! I do depend on the AWD to get me through the deep NY snow & out of some slick boat launch ramps in the summer though.

Hi people. I have a 96 impreza Outback Sport, automatic tranny and 184k miles on the car. My poor subie is having some baaaad torque bind issues. :-\ Within that last few weeks I had 4 brand new tires installed, tranny fluid flushed and filled at jiffy lube, I added 16 ozs of that tranny medic stuff and I put the FWD fuse in. All that did nothing to help the torque bind. The fuse in or out has no effect on the torque bind. Symptoms are that the car wants to hop and I can feel it binding up when I turn slow sharp corners. If I hit sand while turning slow and sharp the front tires actually lose traction and skid as the rear tires try to push the car in a different direction than I am trying to go. It's kind of dangerous. When the car is stopped but still running, the drivetrain is constantly "tensed" (I don't know how else to describe it) even if I put it in neutral or park. It only "untenses" when I shut the engine of. I can feel the drivetrain relax when I turn the key off. The whole car physically relaxes. This is a new-ish symptom. It didn't start doing this until recently. Also, when driving straight down the highway at 50-60mph the whole car will sometimes enter into this bad vibration/oscillation mode. It feels like the whole car is going to fall apart. If I stop and then continue, it will usually go away. I'm pretty sure this problem is also due to the drivetrain issue. It's not CV joints, bad tires or brakes. About 4000 miles ago I personally installed a new water pump, timing belt, new tensioner pulleys, AC and ALT belts, , oil seals, valve cover gaskets, radiator, battery, rear brake pads and rotors and other stuff I'm forgetting right now. It was a lot of work and a pretty good chunk of change for the parts. The 2.2L engine runs like a top and has no leaks of any kind. The suby is too nice to junk or sell cheap because of this damned torque bind! I definately want to keep driving the old subie but I'm totally clueless about trannys, differentials and 4wd systems. I won't take it to a shop because I feel that they're a rip off. Is fixing it a HUGE job?

Hey guys, I just wanted to thank you for the advice and tell you that the CEL is off now! The only thing I hadn't done was to remove the egr and clean it. I never cleaned it because when I removed the egr hose and sucked on it, the engine idle dropped. I assumed that test was telling me that the egr was working properly. In fact, it was not. Maybe my mouth suction was greater than the vacuum created by the car? I cleaned the egr before my 800 mile trip, reset the CEL and it did not come back on! Yeah! The egr didn't look that dirty to me but it did have a little soot in it. I wire brushed it and blew it out with compressed air. My MPG instantly went from 14 city to 23 city. On the recent 800 mile round trip (hauling 750 lbs of jetski & trailer on the way back) I got an average of 24mpg. Not bad.

Yup, I have done that but it always comes back on within a couple days or less. The CEL won't go off by itself if the problem is fixed?