Bigbusa

I hate those wire clamps! It took me 20 mins to get one of those rusted suckers off a radiator hose. Eventually I ended up cutting the wires with cutting pliers. They're nice if they're not rusted but living in the northeast, I've never seen one on a car that wasn't.

All the stuff you replaced is good for another 100k. I hope that old pax side seal is good for another 100k miles! I didn't change the o-rings either. I didn't know where they went. :cool: I should have stopped the job and asked here but wanted to get her back together.

My 96 obs 2.2L has been getting 14 MPG since I've owned it (about 500 miles total). The engine runs and idles great! I hope you figure your issue out so I can learn from you. So far, I've replaced my air filter & PCV with no difference in MPG.

I think you would have been better off spending the extra 15 mins and replacing this seal too. If that old one starts leaking you're going to have to take everything apart again just to replace that one seal. Did you replace the 2 O-rings behind the camshaft covers?

If you can wrench, you can fix the oil leaks, install a timing belt, water pump and all the other little goodies that come in the ebay kit for $200... plus a little more for antifreeze, clamps and other gizmos you may need. You don't have to pull the engine to install this stuff... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-Master-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQihZ011QQitemZ320219959335QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW If you do spend the $1000 on a timing belt service... make sure the price includes installing the new cam and crank oil seals and waterpump. Maybe I should get into mechanics! $1000 for a timingbelt service?!

I've got a pair of the o-rings. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out where they went. Luckily, now that I know where they go... I can see that the old ones aren't leaking.

...checked all the vac hoses... drove it for a while today without the transducer. I think all the water is gone now... didn't see any bubbling out of the hose or the exhaust after I got home. Hopefully, it's all gone. I put the now bone DRY transducer back on and am hoping for the best. I'll reset the code by unplugging the battery and see if it comes back on.

I picked up this subaru carrier from a craigslist seller today. $75. They bought it new for $400 for their 99 forester.

Good luck with the new car!

Does the CEL go out once you've fixed the problem or do you have to make it go out manually by unhooking the battery or getting someone to reset the CEL? thanks

Agreed. If you can do the swap yourself, you're looking at putting a $2300 engine in an old car that'll be worth $3000 - $4000 when you're all done. If you can't do the swap and have to hire it out (like 90% of the population), you'll end up having more money tied up in the new engine & installation than the car is actually worth.

i agree with cougar nipper and skip

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84990

I actually routed new vac hose around those metal pipes a few days ago. The engine runs fine without the transducer. Maybe I'll drive it around and hope all the water gets out of the system. There's quite a bit of water coming out of the tailpipe too.

I've read that article a few times and even printed out to take outside to my car. It talks about heat and carbon build up possibly damaging the transducer making the diaphragm not work correctly. I have to think that water would also make it work incorrectly. I'm remembering that about 2 weeks ago I cleaned the engine bay of the suby with a hose. Basically spraying water everywhere in the engine compartment. Hmmmm,,, That must be where my water problem came from!. MY CEL CODE SHOWED UP SHORTLY AFTER I DID THAT! Doh.

I haven't done anything particular to address the MPG except a new air filter. I kind of assumed that the low MPG was a byproduct of the EGR issue. I was hoping that fixing the EGR would result in getting normal MPG again.

thanks WA. Now the question is... why are there water droplets bubbling out of this hose and could the transducer being full of water cause my CEL code and terrible gas mileage (14.5mpg).

I'm trying to diagnose and fix the PO400 CEL code on a 96 obs 2.2L. I need to buy a manual... :-\ What is this thing? With this thing removed, the larger diameter hose that attaches to the bottom of it spews out water droplets when the engine is running. When it's back in place and the hose is hooked to this thing... a substantial amount of water ends up going up inside it. With this thing removed, I tap the bottom nipple on a hard surface and water comes out. Is this normal? Second question....When sucking on the vacuum hose that connects to the EGR, the idling engines RPM drops slightly and it runs rough. This indicates that the EGR is working as it should?

Thanks for the clarification and I'm glad to find out you're not smoking crack afterall I guess this could have all been avoided if the person giving the original quote didn't make a $900 error in price. :cool:

That's a challenge to you! Now you have to change it on your own.

yes I did skip. I read all the posts at the link. My CEL came back on again yesterday. Same code. p0400. Discostu did you get yours figured out yet or is your CEL still on?

I did have a question about what CCR charges so I emailed them. They responded with the $3195 quote. With such a high price being charged for the rebuilt engine, I don't think CCR should expect to get a core. Then again, If CCR pays shipping back to colorado for the core that would be fair. I can understand why people don't send their cores back. I've shipped some big heavy things (like a car engine) and it isn't fun or cheap. If you decide to spend $3195 for a rebuilt 2.2.L with "non residential" shipping included that's up to you. I personally think that price is incredibly high and would never spend that much. Even if the price included installation, I wouldn't do it. That's outrageous.

2000 2.5L 80k miles with occassional no heat even when the temp gauge is running normal? No one has said HG yet? That's my guess.

I'm pretty sure it's possible to replace the axle without removing the strut bolts. It's been a few years since I've replaced an axle but I remember being able to do one side in 20 minutes without removing the strut bolts.

I'd just charge it in the car. Why take it out, charge it and then put it back in?