Olnick

Most likely the bushings are shot in your shifter linkage. It's a pretty common problem, they just wear out after awhile. Not an easy job--you have to work from underneath the car and access is a bit limited. But well worth the effort. I did it recently and it is like driving a new car! (And hey, if I can do it . . . !) Try a search on here for "shifter bushings." There are some good writeups and links. Haynes manual has helpful illustrations of the setup. Good luck.

Good one! :banana:

It's a big thing if you're part of that mythical 15%!

+1 to that!

Of course there is. Who's going to pay that ridiculous price for the synthetic stuff?

That brings a smile to my face. My wife was born on a Friday the 13th, so it's a lucky day. For her! After a few unexplained weird happenings early in our marriage (many moons ago) I adopted a ritual of wishing her "Happy Friday the 13th" whenever it rolled around. Forgot yesterday but you can bet I called as soon as I got out of my car at work. Guess the karma didn't reach as far east as Delaware. Sorry! But hey, the car started and ran enough for you to turn it around. That's a great sign. Maybe you can recoup some of its value? At any rate, all the best to you and your family.

Such joy. Such pain. Thank goodness the old warrior gave its all and protected your loved one, just as it was supposed to do. I'm sure you're counting your blessings right now. But I feel your pain seeing that gorgeous '95--in my prejudiced opinion the pinnacle of Subaru's efforts--with its nose punched in. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do. Long live the '95!

Amen to that, ron917. I've always used Edmunds to find the most realistic value for a car--always felt that KBB was inflated for dealers to use. And I've never even looked at NADA simply because of who they are! Thanks for posting this.

Well, who'da thunk it? Thanks 86BRATMAN!

Fascinating. What's a FCD?

And I'm excited as hell that you're aboard! Congrats on the Outback. You've found the best place to learn about it, get questions answered and share. Aloha.

It's not ridiculously low if he accepts it! Buyers are probably not going to be lining up to grab it, so, if you like it . . . 1) make him an offer in that range, 2) make sure he knows how to contact you and 3) go home and wait! Good luck. Hope it works out for the best for you.

I meant to mention, I put some aftermarket ceramic pads on my '95 Legacy (nothing fancy--can't even remember the brand!) and have been quite happy with them. But I'm a very light braker and pads last me "forever!"

You probably won't need rotors. If you're not sure, ask some "car types" to look at them and evaluate. (Just don't go to a chain brake shop or parts store . . . guess what they'll tell you!) Changing pads is simple. Remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and swing it up, pop out the pads. Search on here or google it--there are plenty of writeups. You will need a way to push the piston back in before swinging the caliper back down. I bought a 9" c-clamp to do this and it's paid for itself over the years. Be sure to check the caliper slide pins, clean 'em up and regrease with special (high temperature) brake caliper grease. Sticky pins cause brake drag and cost a lot of drivers many mpg each year. Good luck and if you have any questions, just axe!

Right you are--she's absolutely darling! Body looks to be in pretty good condition. Well worth putting "in shape" for many miles of happy driving. I don't know anything about EJ18s, but shoot--it's an EJ, quite understressed at that, so it's gotta' be okay. Congratulations on the find (and the excellent price!)

Very nice explanation, johnceggleston. Thanks.

Great pix, porcupine. Big mahalo to you. It always helps me so much to see what I have to deal with. I changed the left side o-ring when I did the timing belt a few months ago. The cap/cam journal was a bit of a hassle to get off. Found a very helpful writeup by avk from a year ago (since I can't remember how to link, search: avk Random Remarks). Well, you'll have to excuse me now--gotta' get out in the backyard for a little more exercise and recreation! Aloha and thanks again.

Thanks, porc. No rush. I actually have the o-ring--ordered it with some other stuff a few weeks ago. But I have to finish digging up the yard to replace our sewer line before my wife will let me play with the Subaru again!

Ooops! That reminds me that I need to change the RH (passenger's side) o-ring. Would really appreciate seeing your pics, porcupine. Thanks.

Well . . . it won't rust on the inside!!!

Thanks subyluvr. It was your excellent writeup that led me through this entire process. I've always enjoyed my standard Suby shifters (especially now!) so doubt that I'd ever swap in a short shifter. But if you do it I'd love to hear your reactions and observations. Aloha.

Beautiful. Sleek, smooth, aerodynamic. Poetry in motion. Nice pix, Tim. I presume it's the red one that you drive home at night?

I did it. Finally. Got the shifter out of my '95 Legacy and replaced all the bushings. Or, in my case, added bushings where there were none! Spent weeks reading and researching, more weeks collecting the parts . . . and months trembling in fear! Wasn't easy but it's probably the most satisfying improvement I've ever made to a car. Tight, firm and smooth. I can now make every shift with a flick of the wrist and minimal hand movement. I'd forgotten how sweet it could be. Put in Kartboys front and rear for the stay rod--nice firm and stable feeling. Had to use OEMs for the "universal joint" at the boss that connects to the transmission's shift rod (wish someone made a more durable product for there but it appears not). Absolutely the best and most reasonably priced mod (about $20) was Turn in Concepts "pivot bushings" for the shift lever-to-control rod joint. The old OEMs were in good condition but the TiC parts--Wow, what a difference in feel! I know this is already too long, but for anyone interested here are some notes: 1) The inner roll pin came out quite easily. I attribute this to the automatic oil mister system installed on the car (leaky valve covers?) Put the shifter in 5th. Used a 3/16" punch held in a 3/8" socket on a 6" extender to drive it. 2) Slid a 9/32" socket, a couple of old nuts and a couple of washers onto the punch (thanks Subyluvr2212 for the idea) so that about 1/4" of the punch tip stuck out. Gaffer taped it all together and started pounding. Nothing! Couldn't budge the large roll pin mainly 'cause I couldn't get a straight "on-axis" shot at it. Finally admitted defeat, soaked the area with PB Blaster and buttoned the car up. Figured I'd have to tear the tranny support out the next weekend. 3) Secret weapon: My son came home from college that week--so I had him sit in the car and firmly push the shifter forward (still in 5th) and outward (toward passenger side.) That extra half inch of distance and few degrees of twist allowed a straight shot at the roll pin. 4) Fifteen minutes or so of pounding, then my son heard a loud "Yes!" from under the car. Pin popped out. 5) From joy to desolation: Realized that the boss had to be driven off the shaft next. Uh-oh! Asked him to shift to reverse and couldn't believe what I saw. The boss slid right off and fell loose (that automatic oiler again?) He heard sheer happiness from underneath the car. 6) Took the unit out, disassembled the "universal" linkage (which didn't have a shred of bushing left in it) and cleaned everything thoroughly. Reassembled with well-greased new bushings. 7) Installed rear Kartboy. Had to do this from above, working blind. Put it in upside down! Took it out, wiped it down, re-greased it and put it in again . . . upside down. At that point I knocked off for a quiet lunch (I wasn't speaking to myself) after which, miraculously, it went in right side up. 8) Putting it all back together was pretty straightforward. Lining up the boss-to-shift rod holes for the roll pins was a little tricky but eventually I got it. 9) Next morning I got up and actually looked forward to driving to work! Some notes about the aftermarket parts, which I heartily recommend: Kartboy lists their stay rod bushings as being for '97 or '98 and newer Subarus, but thought they should work in earlier models. They seem to be just fine in my '95 Legacy. Turn in Concepts doesn't make the "pivot bushings" for early Legacies but after weeks of discussion and emailing measurements and photographs they cut a metal "crush tube" to the size I needed (about 25mm IIRC). All I had to do was trim about 3mm off one of the urethane bushings to get a tight fit. I dealt with Clint, one of the owners of TiC--super pleasant, super helpful Subaru lover himself. They also cut a few extra tubes to have in stock so if you're interested tell him you want the "Nick's '95 Legacy" model! (By the way, I have no connection or financial interest in this--just want to see my friends get a fantastic mod at a great price!) Wow, I do talk a lot. Anyway, Aloha all.

As the proud owner/operator of a '95 2.2 I can assure you--it's one fine hunk of aluminum.