Olnick

Yes, we salute you.

As a follow-up, yesterday GD worked on the car ('98 Outback with a '95 EJ22 swapped in). He sent me the following: The EVAP purge flow (P0441) was due to a small vacuum routing error on the 2.2 swap. Both sides of the purge solenoid were connected to manifold vacuum so it was "purging" all the time. The (very strange) P1502 "fan control circuit high" code was due to a failed engine computer. Funny how the computer fails internally and triggers a code pointing the finger at the "circuit" when in fact the computer itself was at fault. Took me all morning to trace that down. First time I've seen that circuit die. I had a used ECU of the same part number in my collection and the sub fan is working normally now. I cannot find a cause for the random P0303 and P0302 (neither were present when the car arrived). It runs ever so slightly rough at idle despite having 195 to 200 psi compression on all 4. I checked valve timing, checked for fuel pressure and drop off (injector leakage), and did a smoke test for vacuum leaks. I cannot determine a cause for the slight roughness but it is probably the cause of the random cylinder 2 and 3 misfires. I suspect there is an imbalance situation between the flywheel and pressure plate, etc. Pressure plate may need to be clocked differently on the flywheel. There doesnt seem to be any other directions to go with the diagnostics for those codes besides throwing a crank sensor at it, or doing a clutch and tossing in a known good flywheel. Being the codes did not present on his drive down to me I suspect he will go through the WA state emissions test without much problem. It is also possible that the failed ECU was responsible though I doubt it. Rick A Big Mahalo to GD and Larry Dew for all their efforts. Aloha!

Welcome to the USMB, Boorna! Nice looking Soobie--what year is it?

Thanx, GD.

GD--I sent you a PM. Can Eric bring his car to you Monday morning, October 23rd?

The car Larry's talking about is my son, Eric's. We flew to Colorado and had a wonderful two day drive back to Seattle--including being snowed-in for a night in western Wyoming! Thanks for all the input, friends. GD--he definitely wants to get the car to your shop. I'll PM you about scheduling and details. Mahalo & Aloha, Nick

G'day, Mate! Welcome aboard.

Wise counsel, heartless. Thank you for sharing.

Wise choice, heartless. But then, I wouldn't expect anything less from you!!! Keep on keeping on.

Wish I could help you, Starlite--hopefully some of our gurus will chime in. I'm sure you Googled your code, that should offer some suggestions. Warm start problems can be caused by a faulty ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor)--might be worth checking out. Good luck. Keep checking back here.

I salute you for your conscience and for asking the question, edian727. Good going!

Must be something in the Seattle air. My son had to replace his fuel pump last weekend. Congrats on your success!

Wish I could offer you more help & suggestions but I'm no expert. I do like the idea of a stainless steel exhaust system--so I wish you luck. Keep us up on your progress. Portugal--Wow! I'll bet it's fun driving a Subaru through the countryside there.

Where are you located, dbcooper1? Can you give us any links to advertisements or websites for the system you're considering?

Take it easy, man. Our best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Just want to say a big Thank You for this thread. My son's '98 Outback fuel pump died Friday so, with the valuable info in this thread, he ran to a Pull n' Pay Saturday and got a used one. It was obviously a replacement, shiny & clean. Paid $36! Put it in Sunday and works like a charm. Today, just for the hellofit, he called a dealership and priced a new pump: $520 plus estimated $220 for installation! (My son thanks you too!)

Welcome to the USMB, Nelson. Sounds like a common problem--there are copper contacts inside the solenoid that carry the current to the starter motor. They get burned and pitted after years of use. Remove the starter, open the rear plate and you can access them for replacement--new contacts are available from a dealership, an auto-electric shop or online. Good luck!

Okay, put the MMO back on the shelf! Sorry gang--my old brain stopped at the EJ22.

Sounds like it's just a "lifter tick." Try adding a bottle of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) to the crankcase and driving like normal for a few days. Then, if the tick goes away, change the oil & filter .

Welcome to the USMB, My64bit. Nice looking vehicle! Post your questions in the Newer Gen Forum and I'm sure you'll get help.

If you mean the marks on the belt, they will only line up after umpteen revolutions--80 or 90? Someone once posted it on here! Man, that is one clean looking engine! What year is it?

And what was it?!!

Welcome aboard, SubieF11. Nice looking vehicle--what year is it? What is it that you're nervous about?!! (Edit: Nevermind. I just saw your posts in the New Gen Forum!)

Interesting video. Yes, it does look "too easy!" I'd like to hear reactions from some of our axle-gurus . . . is this a good way to go? One tip: Before removing the eccentric bolt from the strut bracket, mark its orientation with a chisel scratch or paint mark. You'll sleep better when you go to reinstall it!

Welcome aboard! I think you'll find this a pretty friendly, helpful place.