Olnick

Welcome, Jason. This is a great place for Subarus . . . and the people who own them.

Did you clean the slider pins and regrease them?

There's still a good how-to on scoobymods: http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy-hvac-bulb-replacement-t91.html?t=91

Could be a problem with the temp gauge sender?

Welcome, 06_OBS! You're gonna' like it here--plenty of good info to research, plenty of good people to offer help.

Welcome, loyalelover. Great little cars--I had a couple of '85s, they absolutely sold me on Subaru technology. Good luck with your project and do keep us up on your progress.

Welcome, outhouse. I think you're going to like it here--tons of information and a lot of knowledgable and friendly people. Good luck with the mods.

Welcome aboard, Palmetto_x. What did you swap in--EJ25 or EJ22? Is it an AT or MT? I really don't expect an answer soon. Hope you're out there enjoying the drive!!!

There are a number of things you'd be wise to do while the engine is out and the front end is opened up (idlers, tensioner, oil pump, separator plate, etc.) Try a search--there are tons of threads about it. If you want genuine Subaru parts at a good price call Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru, 866-528-5282.

Granted it's not the easiest thing to get to. On my '95 EJ22 it's below the IACV, toward the rear of the engine, passenger side. I removed the IACV for a thorough cleaning so access was relatively easy. For a pic of the location see post #7 here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75009&highlight=coolant+temp+sensor No. A little bit will dribble out but no big thing (at least when I did mine.)

To change the Coolant Temp Sender? Good grief! I could do it in a half-hour and I don't even claim to be a mechanic!

And doing a fine job of it I might add.

You probably need to replace all 4 tires. With AWD it's critical that circumferences match.

Hi! Bye! WOW!

Yeah, kinda' reinforces one of our cardinal rules here . . . thou shalt use only Subaru OEM plug wires! But Yay for JB Weld, right?

WOW! Lookin' good!

Just to clarify, that is no longer the Auburn store. It used to be, but was sold off a few years ago. Call Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn WA, 866-528-5282, and ask for Jason in the Parts Department. Good service and great prices . . . he's the one many of us "old-timers" like to deal with.

Just replaced that same short hose last month on my son's '92 Legacy (fixed one heck of a chronic oil leak problem!) Got it from Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru, 866-528-5282. Suggest you get a new plastic T at the same time. They get brittle over time--ours looked fine but broke in two when we tried to remove it. Good luck.

Beyond the "Dat-soon"(!) there were some rather oblique Japanese/German connections with our very own Subaru marque. The Subie H-4 engine was derived, not from VW but from a 1950s design by Borgward, makers of Lloyd, Hansa, Goliath and Borgward cars. And in the 1990s when Subaru wanted more modern styling for the Legacy they hired a freelancer, Olivier Boulet, who had been a designer at Mercedes-Benz. Ah, the web of intrigue continues.

Me too! That's funny, Rick--curiosity got me so I went back and looked it up too. Hope you can find the pix, it was a beautiful piece of work as I recall.

Definitely got to get rid of that play. I seem to recall that some have had luck with welding up the crankshaft snout then grinding a new key slot. Did it while still in the car I believe. Also vaguely recall a bolt-on piece to position and hold the pulley. It was a rather elegant solution. Seem to remember some mention of a shop in Denver (was it S-Wings?) that had the part. Might want to contact them. Good luck.

Yes you should. Everybody should list their state or country after their city. (Actually when people register the question should be "City & State or Country" . . . sorry, pet peeve!)

Burp it! Use the search function up top (enter burp or coolant burp) to learn the technique. Here's one that might help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=805429&highlight=burp+coolant#post805429 Good luck.

Can't answer your question Brian. I suppose you can disconnect it and see what happens! But your best bet is to somehow get those codes read. They're trying to tell you something! Otherwise you'll be blindly throwing parts and money at the car. Good luck.