Olnick

Sorry nipper, but in practical terms . . . it works!

Do the penetrating oil for a few days as suggested, then when you're ready to take it out warm up the engine. The heat expands the exhaust pipe and makes the unscrewing easier. Oh, and it takes a 22mm wrench (at least it is through '95 and I doubt they changed the standard size.)

When in doubt try the search function up top--almost everything has been covered on USMB at one time or another! A quick look turned up this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75009&highlight=ects+coolant+temp+sensor Good luck.

Could possibly be the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS)--the one that talks to the computer not the temp gauge! Was about $30 when I bought one a few years ago.

Recently people have been saying, with an almost religious fervor, you should (must?) use an OEM part for the front O2 sensor. I have two questions: 1) Why? 2) What defines an OEM O2 sensor? Who makes them--Bosch, Denso, Subaru themselves? Please discuss.

Looks quite nice. Are Subarus popular on Guadeloupe?

This might help you. Read the entire thread for tips (like it's much easier to just unclip the heater cable from the bottom end.) http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy_hvac_bulb_replacement-t91.html?threadid=91 Good luck.

Nice pic, MM. Lights blazing, sand flying. It looks so . . . Out Back!

^ Amen, Brother! (And thanks, Ed.)

I believe 95s have the MAP sensor only if they are AT. Sorry, since I drive a manual transmission I didn't think about that!

Been searching for a knock sensor for my sons '92 Legacy. Check this out for price: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&VN=+4294964890+4294967234&Nr=AND(make:Subaru,part:Knock+Sensor,universal:0)

Subaru started OBD2 with the '95 model year. They had a MAF sensor, not MAP.

I like that description! May I use it?

Thanks Gloyale. Sounds like real fun!!! I suspect we'll have to remove the exterior handle--I'm guessing the area at the back of the cylinder housing was cracked or bent. Haynes isn't super clear. The exploded drawing (15.2a on page 11-15) shows 2 nuts holding the housing to a bracket. But the photograph (15-6 on page 11-18) indcates 4 nuts to be removed. Anyone have the appropriate pages from the '92 Legacy FSM they could send me? Mahalo.

Thanks for the great writeup, markjw. That kind of thorough flush is something I've wanted to do to my wife's Maxima for years (but never had the guts to!!!)

Someone punched out the driver's door key cylinder on my son's car, which leads me to two questions: 1) How do you remove the handle to replace it? And 2) Why would anyone try to break into a beat-up '92 Legacy?!! Locks all work just fine but it's a pain to have to unlock the passenger door then reach across to manually unlock the driver's side. I was in Seattle over New Years so we removed the interior door panel to get to the door handle but access is blocked by the window glass. Do you have to remove the window and its operating mechanism to get to the nuts and bracket holding the handle? Any insights, tips or suggestions appreciated. Mahalo and Aloha!

I'm a strong believer in having a good (read, new!) ECTS. The ECU needs the best info it can get to manage the engine properly and accurate temp. readings are crucial. However, it could be that your CEL was just a fluke because of the extreme outside temps. I'd suggest you keep driving it as is--it probably won't leave you stranded. Just be aware of any changes in engine operation, especially if it has a hard time starting when the engine is warm. And if/when you replace it, I'd use Subaru OEM part. Good luck.

I think the ECTS is a most logical place to start. If it's still the original in the car, it's lived a long, full life! Would be worth the investment to me.

Welcome aboard, alfredo. You're going to like it here!

+1 to what Suzam said. And welcome aboard. Your oil consumption really isn't out of sight. Front end work might take care of a lot of it. Seperator plate on the other hand requires pulling the engine so would be a bit expensive. I don't agree with the might just "add pressure and burst something else" comment. These are pretty sturdy machines. And as far as money pit, I doubt that I put more than a couple of hundred dollars a year on average into my 15 year old EJ22 and it runs like a new engine! Great thing is if you don't mind getting your hands dirty you really can do it all yourself. Good luck.

Welcome, zoobaru! I think you'll like it here.

Here's a good writeup (I went back and looked to see if it was still available!) http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy_hvac_bulb_replacement-t91.html?s=&threadid=91

You do realize that pictures will be required, don't you?

No! My understanding is that the PCV line does a better job of spreading the juice around inside the manifold. It appears they moved the PCV valve since my EJ22! At any rate you'd need to disconnect the hose at the lower end (not the manifold end) to get the fluid in. Suggestion--Put the requisite amount of Seafoam in a small clean container like a yogurt cup. Then, with the engine warm and running, dip the bottom end of that hose into the cup. It should suck right up. It may tend to stall the engine but you can play with the throttle to keep it going. As soon as all the fluid is sucked up, stop the engine. After waiting 5 minutes (or whatever the recommended time is) start her up, drive off and enjoy the show!

Welcome aboard. Yeah, you did the right thing signing on here--this is the best thing going for Subarus (and the nuts that own them)!!! As for your new '79 just use your "car common sense." Check all the fluids, check brakes and tires, steering. Take it easy and make sure it feels safe before you hit the road. Good luck--and ask lotsa' questions!