Olnick

Fantastic! Congratulations! I suppose it would be wisest to replace that tensioner, but at least you know the what, where & why now.

Yeah, he'll be okay. Talk with him, help him learn the beauty of a Subaru, show him some basic maintenance, how to check the oil and fluids, change filters, whatever. He'll be okay because you're his big brother and he looks up to you! (Okay, 'nuff preaching for now!!!)

Wow, lucky little brother! Tell him to take good care of it! It looks like a "new" car, and at that mileage it's hardly broken in. Thanks for the pix.

Welcome aboard, Andy. Sounds like torque bind for sure--that happens in the rear housing of the tranny, not in the rear diff. The AWD clutches get worn and don't work properly. Since the fuse in the FWD holder doesn't seem to help you, that may suggest a problem with the Duty-C solenoid. I'm no AT expert (others will chime in!) but when was the ATF last changed? Sometimes swapping in new ATF will help the problem unless the AWD clutch plates are too worn. If you want to start doing some studying on it, try the "similar threads" at the left bottom of this page. Or use the search function up top and search "torque bind." Good luck.

Welcome aboard Sturgn. Your best friend here on USMB is the search function up top. Tons of Subaru information. Choose "advanced search," type in "burp" or "burp coolant," select "New Gen Forum" and hit "search." Good luck.

Hey spark, are they going to offer you any compensation to relocate? Hope so. At any rate, here's to a safe, happy trip across the country. Aloha!

I agree with what edrach said. Document everything: 1) Keep a log of what you were told, when and by whom. And include the "environmental spray" BS. 2) Get everything you can (like estimates) in writing. 3) Take pictures of the damage, including some good clear closeups. 4) Keep your cool with the dealership, but be firm. Good luck.

Welcome 1988(!)GL4WD. I think you're going to love your Subaru--and the people who drive them. Sounds like you got a good start on fixing her up. Lotsa' good help here.

Thanks for sharing, michaelbteam. It's a good reminder for all of us!

At this point I think you'd be wise to remove the bolt and take the harmonic balancer off, if possible. There may be hidden damage. Check the balancer, the key and especially the keyway slot in the crankshaft--look for excessive wear and deformation.

Welcome aboard clunkerbob. You're gonna' love this place. Sounds like you got a fun piece of machinery to work on!

Welcome aboard mkeenan! Suggest that you post your questions on the New Generation forum--you'll get more response there.

Yup. But it's a lot better than the alternative!

GM owned a chunk of Subaru but sold it off a few years ago, then Toyota bought in. Edit: Sorry, hadn't seen your follow up when I answered!

Check the connectors that the lamps fit into, sometimes they deteriorate over time. For what it's worth, here's a thread from a few years back: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41301&highlight=headlight+connector

Sounds like you've got a pretty good list going. Was the timing belt done recently? At 68k it's due. Plugs, the most basic NBGK V-powers are fine. Might want to replace plug wires also--Subaru OEM are best. When you change the PCV clean out the hose leading to it too. Rear diffs are rarely checked by people so it might be wise to drain and fill. Removing the plugs can be a chore, they're always tight--just make sure you remove the top one before you open up the bottom! ATF--check the condition of the fluid. Might want to do a few drain-and-fills to freshen it up. Also might be wise to check the brakes--pads, discs and grease the slider pins, fresh brake fluid and bleed the lines if you're really feeling ambitious! Post a pic of the car sometime. My daughter had a '92 sedan in Spokane, now it belongs to her brother in Seattle. Love that car!

WOW!!! Did it pop the taillights out?

Johnceggleston, your posts #8 and #10 are an excellent overview of the HG problem. Thanks for laying it all out so clearly, hopefully it will be of help to others in the future (should it be stickied maybe?)

I've always wondered (but never had the guts to try!) Does the plastic window trim just snap off? Any hints or procedures like where to pry?

If you're that far in I think you'd be wise to take the oil pump off and check it anyway. Make sure backing plate is tight, new o-ring and reseal.

Hi suwbarrux. Post your question on the Older Gen forum, you'll probably get responses there. Good luck with the Brat!

It sounds like you're doing this for the first time. I would highly recommend that you do some studying first. There are tons of excellent threads here on USMB with guidance, tips and links--use the search function to find them. Or at least get a Haynes manual. The crank pulley shouldn't require a puller, should come off by hand or with a slight bit of wedging. I removed the radiator when I (as a rank amateur) did my timing belt, it's not really difficult to do. The extra space makes the work a lot more comfortable and precludes sticking a tool through the radiator fins! Also, put a piece cardboard or thin plywood over the condenser to protect it. Good luck!

Tsk, tsk, nipper! How indelicate! Welcome aboard, z. Sorry about the cupholders. Funny, when I first got my '95 Legacy I didn't have them either. Don't know much about Imprezas but look at your center stack, above the console. Between the HVAC controls and the radio see if you can find a button centered in a narrow horizontal panel. Push it and see what happens. Good luck--and ask lotsa' questions. (BTW, ask technical questions on the New Generation forum.)

Oh, and welcome aboard by the way!!!

You can get a new key to go along with your new pulley. The bigger question is did it hog out the the keyway slot in the crankshaft? The crank is one piece so replacing it would mean totally disassembling the engine, not really a reasonable approach. Others have had the same problem and there are various "degrees" of fix! Try the search function, something like "crank pulley keyway" for ideas.