Olnick

Oh, forgot--"Cars101" is a good site to look for info on past models: http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html

Yeah, this could be a good car. '96 with manual tranny still has the "bulletproof" non-interference EJ22 engine. 167k wouldn't bother me if it's had regular care and maintenance--see if he can document that, especially timing belt changes. Check it over, drive it and see how it feels to you. Again, offer him less because of age/mileage/rust and the fact that it's close to due for another front-end job--timing belt, pulleys, seals, waterpump, etc. Good luck!

Welcome, PL! Hey, I can't say enough good things about the '95 Legacy Wagon (but I'm extremely prejudiced--and I know it!!!) The shifter slop is probably just bushings that are shot. Can be fixed, it's a bear of a job but doable. If you're interested it's been discussed a lot in the past--try a search, type in shifter bushings. The price? Guess it depends on what they're going for in your area and how much it's worth to you. I'd certainly offer less however because of the rust and the shifter work needed. Make him an offer and wait patiently, if no one else wants to deal with the problems he'll come back to you. Anyways, good luck, ask questions here and let us know how it goes.

For what it's worth to you, here's a headlight clearing procedure that Josh/Legacy777 wrote up a few years back--a topic that's developed a life of its own!!! http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739&highlight=yellow+sand%2A By all means give us your write-up, with pix if possible.

Hey, it looks good--but then I'm partial to my good old '95! What year? Tranny? Mileage? Do you know any of the cars history? Happy cleaning and tuning!

Welcome aboard, bruvan! Hope you're lucky with the head gaskets. Keep a sharp eye on the temp gauge and check your coolant overflow tank regularly, at least for the first few months. Pull the FWD fuse and test for torque bind--crank your steering wheel hard to one side and let the car idle itself forward, if it hops or "judders" you've got it. Try the same test to the other side and in reverse too. By the way, the FWD trick does not save any gas and will probably shorten the life of the control solenoid. As far as the fuel gauge, get used to it--it's a Subaru quirk! You can pull the fuel pump/sender unit, both sides, and clean the contacts but that's no guarantee. Get used to resetting the trip meter when you fill up. Get familiar with the "search" function here on USMB. This place is an absolute encyclopedia of anything you need to know about your car. Good luck and happy driving!

Hi, green! Try posting your question on the New Generation forum. Better chance of getting helpful responses there.

Welcome, mg. Try posting your question on the New Generation forum--much better chance of getiing a response.

Congratulations, Brent! Now go out and enjoy that Subaru!!!

Mahalo, Turbone. I see the bare patch. 'Course I don't know when I'll ever get up there!!! But maybe my son will someday.

Call Jason in Auburn WA--866-528-5282. He's the one who thoughtfully reminded me I needed them when I was ordering VC gaskets.

Lookin' good! Great pix. Did you check/reseal the oil pump? How about the separator plate on the rear--great time to do that.

Welcome, shanalls. You'll get more response if you post your question in the New Generation forum (assuming you're looking for a '90 Subaru or newer.)

Hey, Ed, thanks for the report. Where is Smokey Point PAP located? I looked it up online and the aerial view showed a farmer's field near the Arlington airport!

It's not a bad idea to "freshen up" the fluid on occasion--working on the pump would be a good time to do it. Just remove as much old fluid as you can (turkey baster, syphon or gravity) and replace with fresh, then do the lock-to-lock trick and top up.

You're right, it's pretty straight forward. Access is easy but a bit tight--can't use a regular ratchet as I recall. Don't forget to get new rubber grommets for the three bolts. Good luck.

You're very welcome. Over the years the EJ22 has proven itself to be a very reliable, solid engine. It is not as susceptible to head gasket failure as other EJs. And it was a non-interference design through the '96 model year. Unfortunately it was redesigned for the '97 MY and became an interference type. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Hi JesZeK. We need to know more details--Year? Trim level? Transmission? Mileage? Present condition? As far as the "rarity," don't let them try to dazzle you with the "special/sporty/CEOs car" stuff. It's just a car, not worth any more than any other similar Subie. Value depends on how well it was maintained (any records?) and your judgment about its present condition. Now if it's a pre-97 EJ22 it might be an excellent buy. You know, "best engine Subaru ever built" and all!!! You might want to check for torque bind and smoothness of shifts. Just check it out carefully and if you have specific questions ask them here. Good luck. Hope it's a very nice car at a very reasonable price!

Thanks for sharing that. I've always depended on good ol' fashioned Liquid Wrench--glad to see it performed so well. But the ATF-Acetone (and Ed's Red!) sounds awesome.

Yesterday the Outback, today Impreza. http://www.autoblog.com/2009/07/30/2010-subaru-impreza-pricing-announced-premium-model-1-000-chea/#comments

You might enjoy knowing that we are "characters!" http://www.autoblog.com/2009/07/29/first-drive-2010-subaru-outback-has-character-for-everyone/ Enjoy!

Good info. Do you think it might be of interest to those who read the New Generation Of Subaus forum?

Ewwww . . . you so mean!

Yup, that's a really . . . interesting idea! I second what bratman said. Get a couple of 4X4s (or doubled 2X4s) and wedge them between floor and rafter on both sides of the car. Or, set up a video camera just outside the garage and push "record" then go start lifting . . . ! Hey, good luck.

Do you have any idea of the car's history? How long have you owned it? Any maintenance or repair bills in the car? You've already done some good things--air/fuel filters, plugs & wires (hope you used Subaru OEM wires). I'd check vacuum lines carefully, replace the PCV and clean the connecting hose, clean the MAF sensor and the electrical connector contacts, remove and clean the IACV, might even replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one that communicates with the ECU). Maybe replace O2 sensors if you don't know long they've been in there. By the way, any record of timing belt changes? Should've been done at 105k I believe. Don't get discouraged--it's all do-able! Just some thoughts. Good luck.