NinjaTech

Look up the Doomwagon

took a break from drifting for a minute to get a couple pics.

This is true, but the last few races I was in no one got enough votes to get crushed. It's mostly you being a idiot and pissing people off that gets you voted for the crusher.

well if it's in august again I would go with something that can take running in the heat. With our festiva we put in a radiator that was twice as big and had the fan on constantly so it wouldn't overheat. We were running altamont and thunderhill though, I'm not familiar with the omaha track.

I would advise against anything with an EA motor. They can't handle racing conditions, you'll be blowing headgaskets and have no power. Also, what race are you aiming for?

Too bad I sold my old lemons Festiva to someone else. I've done 4 races so far. I've been fixing up my old GTI I bought back from a friend for $100. I'm hoping to do buttonwillow in december if I can get enough drivers and the cage done. With that said I would just go for a legacy since you said you want the awd and an EJ. It won't be as light as an EA car but it will be much easier for you. Just gut it as much as you can. A lot of weight can be saved from removing everything from the doors and just welding them shut. you will also have much better suspension and braking options for a legacy too. An Impreza would be the best but it's very hard to find one for under $500.

which 80's accords? there were 3 generations during the 80's.

Bummer about the BBQ but congrats on the job. I need to get one of those, it's been about 2 years for me as well. The new place hiring any more people?

If anyone going has some front axle stubs that wants to get rid of them or sell them for cheap let me know. I'm going to be taking my lift off and going rwd since I punctured one of my AT's and can't afford a new set.

I should be able to come out for awhile. Depends if I go camping or not.

Oh I see now. The original post made it seem like the first half of the day was for AWD only and the second half was 2WD only. I might make it out. We'll see how my GL is running then.

How much does it cost? Also would I be able to do both sessions in my wagon if I put it in 2wd for that session and in 4wd for the awd session? chehalis is a much more reasonable drive than the ORG ones.

Yeah that's why I was trying to clarify. There is no need for your attitude, mr. internet tough guy.

If its 4" strut blocks and 3" at the cross members that would be more like a 4" lift. since it's a total of 4". It's just all in how you think about it or word it. You could all it a 3"+1 or some crap. As you can see now what he was saying what exactly what I said he meant.

I'm pretty sure what he means is that it's going to be 5" because he's lifting the body 4" and the suspension will be an additional inch over that making it 5". It's not hard to figure out.

That scout looks pretty sweet. Where the footage of the van?! I've never seen anyone wheeling a van before, seems like it would be too long for a lot of trails.

That looks pretty awesome. I need to hit up Tahuya sometime in the near future. What's that van in the background? 4wd toyota van?

You could weld the top half of the hatch in for the rear window. It would fit the lines of the car pretty well.

and some video

I thought they were aluminum since it broke so easy and is about the same color. I could weld on it whatever metal it is though.

yes, I was using an E10 socket after I found out that they weren't 8mm bolts when I was taking the LSD chunk out. I guess I can try sube4x4's suggestion of welding some aluminum stock to it this weekend too when I go to my friends. Just hope I can get the metal clean enough to weld properly.

I was starting to take apart my open diff on my wagon to swap my LSD in. I drained the gear oil and then went to break the stub bolts loose and the head on one of them sheared in half. I'm not sure what to do to get the stubs out so I can swap my LSD in there. Am I screwed and have to buy a new open diff? Also are the stubs the same in the LSD and on the open diff? Just wondering in case I need to break out the angle grinder. edit: as a side note, if I can't get the diff out. would it be possible to weld it while still in the housing? I could either use my friends 110v mig or his tig machine. The tig is able to do stick as well. what do you guys think would be the best choice in this situation?

That looks awesome. Also were you in Olympia recently? I swear I saw your car in Lacey near Home Depot.

You could look around at what guys putting EA81 engines into aircraft are doing. It really depends on how much power you're after too. Also ACVW engines have dual intake and exhaust ports so they have more potential to flow more air. They also bore them out to pretty big displacements upwards of 2.5L.

I just used the search function and end up finding this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103951&highlight=2+inch+lift&page=2 It was really easy to make but I redid the front the other day since I had some positive camber. I haven't had a chance to install them yet. I'll post up pics when I do. Also, progress on the LSD removal. I rounded off one of the stub bolts since I didn't know it was a recessed torx. So now I have to go get some 1/4 drive torx sockets since I only have 3/8 drive ones. I forgot to post these pics of what I did to that stubborn busted axle. The splines were rusted pretty good and the PB didn't even get in there at all.