coldfusion21

Change the oil often and possibly do a flush with MMO or ATF. Fixed my ticking ones right up.

Can one replace the ash tray with the pocket?

totally forgot about those. Ya, if its the lowers ones, he has the right idea. If its up next to the headlight should just be one screw under the hood.

I think you undo the one screw at the top of the housing and the whole things just unclips. Change light and replace. should only take a few mins.

Unless your not comfortable doing it yourself you should just pick up a known good USDM engine and slap some new gaskets and timing stuff on it. That way *you* know what has been replaced and *you* know it was done right.

I have had all kinds of problems regarding the window switches on my 90 Legacy. Seems the design wasn't the best and over time they stop working. Drivers side has been inop for some time (ever after repeated cleanings) and the passengers side is starting to go. My plan: I want to replace all of the window switches with my own DPDT switches. They will be of a return to center design with a simple cross over design to flip the polarity. Now, would it be worth my time to relay all the switches? Seems like all the window motor current goes through the switch and that may lead to increased switch failure down the road. Also, where would you mount the new switches? I was thinking on the dash around the radio area, and i want them low enough so the cup holder doesnt interfere to much. Is there a blank panel available for the lower dash cubby? Ideally i would just replace the ash tray. Just holds lots of coins and i actually use the cubby. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great. Jared

Just because some people don't know (or care) how much sealant to use doesn't means it a bad idea for the rest of us. I always use a super thin layer on any seal i replace. Not to mention you would have to be stupid to get it *behind* the seal as the act of installation pretty much removes any excess. good luck with your seal.

I to wanted to replace it on my 245k legacy 2.2 but these guys convinced me not to. No evidence of any leakage so i just left it. unless pulling the engine is easy for you i wouldn't wanna get it wrong.

I am a volvo guy at heart and i followed one guys project where he did this to an all electronic volvo transmission, used a stamp microprocessor and now has a paddle shifted turbo volvo. I did some thinking and the FWD isn't worth it, I agree. I can always leave my switch alone and put in the FWD fuse if i really need it. I will look through the rs25.com stuff, but to test what they say i could check it as described with the FWD fuse correct?

please do report back. I am planning on doing this soon in my 90 legacy. Trying to figure out how I am going to get the wiring diagrams though. Can i pull the TCU plug and check for continuity from the FWD fuse to the connector and locate the correct wire? I plan on doing a separate switch for FWD/AWD too. That way i can switch to manual mode (just like everyone else is doing with the resistor packs) and then either provide 12v (like the FWD fuse does) or nothing at all (like everyone else is doing)

please do report back. I am planning on doing this soon in my 90 legacy. Trying to figure out how I am going to get the wiring diagrams though. Can i pull the TCU plug and check for continuity from the FWD fuse to the connector and locate the correct wire? I plan on doing a separate switch for FWD/AWD too. That way i can switch to manual mode (just like everyone else is doing with the resistor packs) and then either provide 12v (like the FWD fuse does) or nothing at all (like everyone else is doing)

I am curious as to how the 4wd/awd system works on my legacy. I know there is the ability to force the system to be 100% fwd, but can i force it into 4wd or RWD? I mostly just want a system that i can tell to hold in 4wd because as it is now there is lag time between when the front wheels spin and power is transferred to the rear. If even possible. Thanks guys Edit: just found a thread that answered my question. So if i put it in 1 or possibly 2 i will have a 50/50 split, which is the best i can hope for? In 1 (possibly 2) does it lock the split at 50/50?

Got under and checked everything out. Rear discs, with some nasty pads. It is the L model, with the steel wheels. I figured nothing else would fit under those, but it looks like craigslist has lots of options for picking up some newer 16 inch alloys. Not to mention I may have found all four brakes off a '01 Legacy for under 100. When buying discs for this setup do I just ask for the 01 discs? Thanks for your help, hopefully by next rally cross season i will have a nice little setup.

Cant wait for next season. I only raced twice this year but both times were the most fun i have ever had. I'm really glad all the people at ORG continue to donate their time to make this a reality for us all. Thanks guys (and gals)

Well, any volvo made after 78 or so had awesome brakes, 4 piston front, single rear with decent sized vented front rotors (the vented ones were only on the turbo's). That's where I'm coming from, but my current other car is a 93 BMW 325is and it also stops on a dime compared to the Subaru. I will flush them, i agree that can really do wonders. What kind of brake pads do you suggest? There was a PBR ceramic pad I loved on the Volvo's, wonder if something equivalent can be had for my Subaru? Same goes for rotors, does any particular brand stand out? Tires are a non issue. They suck, but I come no where close to locking them up. My overall goal would be bang for my buck. I dont need STI brakes and don't want to have to pay for wheels to fit them either. But i'm hoping I can find some plain jane WRX brakes for cheap off a wrecked car. Plus some newer stock wheels and i should be good to go.

All is well!! Started on first crank. The HLA's are making lots of noise. LOTS. I have had that issue before, and after a couple hundred miles it went away. Hopefully this is the same or better. I plan on doing an engine flush with MMO and then continue running my dino oil. Hope that will help some. Other then that, the engine is easier to deal with now that the cruise control and AC stuff is gone. Can't wait to get on the suspension next.

If i may slightly push this off topic, i would like to ask about doing the same swap on a first gen legacy. I would think it would be fine, or i could swap parts to make it work? The brakes in my legacy are really sub par compared to my euro cars and really wanna change that. Thanks, Jared

Motor is in! Gonna finish stuff up today and we will see what happens. Wish me luck!

Well, since no one had an answer i found out myself. Its the oil dipstick tube. Has two o-rings. Engine goes back in tomorrow. Hope she starts up first crank

bump Getting it back together slowly, still wondering about that o-ring

I'm sure at high speeds you won't notice. However, i bet at low speeds and in torque steer situations you will notice it to be a good deal stiffer with alot more feedback.

Well thanks to legacy77 I have some part numbers for the brackets so i will be investigating that today. Thank you for the offer. I was hoping someone could ID this O ring too. There are two in my top end gasket set.

Sorry for the 3 year old thread, but i was curious if anyone had more info on this. I have the liquid filled round ones (atleast they were liquid filled) and they are super expensive. How different is the bracket for the square ones?

So I just got a quote of almost 300 dollars for two new mounts. That's insane. I can buy ten of almost any other mount for that price. If anyone has some spare late model legacy motor mount brackets that would be awesome. If only. Heads are done, off to pick them up. Pictures later today.

Well, I would think the best bet would be the OBW springs with the OBW shocks, if it really is that easy. I assume the springs are of pretty equal lengths?