harpua

I have been having the exact same problem with my '86 3 door. I havn't noticed a difference if it is warm or cold, but i did notice that i could get it into reverse more often when i removed the inner rubber shifter boot. Gear oil looks to be in good order for my car. I sure hope someone has an answer to this. donny

Passenger side front cylinder is #1 Drivers side front cylinder is #2 Passenger side rear cylinder is #3 Drivers side rear cylinder is #4 On the distributor you will hook up the leads Counter clock wise in this succession #1 #3 #2 #4 pretty simple...if you have any more questions, just ask. donny

Finally some progress. The positive battery cable was the culprit. Now i just need to tune a few things and i will be rolling in style! thanks for all of the input on this one guys. Saved my a**! donny

Ok, i just took another battery, and hard wired my old starter up to it on the ground, and the thing spun just fine. I reinstalled the old starter because i have seen it work. I am going to go throw in the second battery, and if i still get no life from the car, i am going to put on different battery cables.... wish me luck i guess....keep the input coming!

Ok, so here is the story, i just swapped the intake from an EA81 carbed motor onto an EA82 carbed motor (because i have an EA81 adapter plate for my Weber, and not an EA82 adapter plate...don't really want to shell out $50 bucks right now for one) The swap went very smooth...no big problems except the EGR valve being in the way. I went to start the car after i did the swap, and the motor turned over for about 3 seconds and then just quit. I turned the key again, and all i got was a *click* Now that is all i get every time i turn the key is the *click* from the starter. I came to the conclusion that maybe my starter had kicked the bucket, so i nabed another starter from my parts car, and threw it on, and guess what....same thing. i still just get a *click* from the starter everytime i turn the key. So now my guess is that i have an electrical issue. I have cleaned and tightened my battery terminals, made sure the starter was hooked up nice and tight, but to no avail. So here is my riddle....I can only hope the answer is an easy one....but that just wouldn't be my luck these days. As always any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks for the help in advance. donny

i thought i wasn't getting enough juice to the starter, so i cleaned the battery connections, made sure the starter was hooked up well, still nothing, so i tried jumpstarting the car. still nothing. There is definatly coolant in the cylinders on the drivers side. so there is a chance that i hydro locked it, and fried my starter maybe? who knows, i am pretty frustrated at this thing...getting ready to go postal on it....

Well i pulled the plugs, and found the the drivers side has fluid in the cylinders. I can't tell if it is coolant or fuel, but there is definatly something in there. With all of the plugs out, i try to turn the key over and still just get the *click* from the starter, and the car does not turn over. Could i have fried my starter when i tried to start the engine the first time with coolant in the cylinders? Why would the starter just click and not turn over? I am going to go fiddle with it some more....maybe i can figure something out. thanks for the input so far, i really appreciate it.

Well i got it all hooked up without too much trouble. I went to start it and the engine turned over for about 3 seconds and then stopped. I turned the key again and all i got was a *click* and the car didn't turn over. Now that is all that happens....turn the key *click* then nothing. Any thoughts as to why this would be?

Well while i wait for my weber adapter plate to come for my ea82 intake, i need to get my car running. Has anyone swaped an EA81 intake onto an EA82 motor? I have read up on this, and have found that the intake will fit, but that is about it. I am just looking for info on any big issues that i may run into so that i might be a little bit more prepared. Thanks for all responses.

Second opinion: Wow, i didn't know that a subaru could handle like that....Driving straight was the times you could feel the *slammed* ride, but once I got into a corner it was like heaven on wheels.... I can see why subaru_styles presents a warning. But i can see at the same time why he wanted to do the mods he has done. There was little to no roll in the car when cornering. A world of difference from stock suspension. From the looks of it, i will be doing similar mods, although not as extreme as subar_styles, but close none the less....I was more than impressed by these mods. If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM me. And thanks again styles....

hehe, i love posts written at the same time...

He did an excellent write up on all of his mods. go to www.subarubrat.com look around, you will find some great info in there.

I saved this nice bit of info onto my computer. Hope you enjoy these marvelous tips If this isn't in the archives, it should be: Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag.

Has anyone else used an XT6 clutch disk with an ea82 flywheel? I am just looking for multiple people that have done this.....

Hey Qman....what coil do you use exactly? Do you have a part number for it or anything like that?

I had the opportunity to see this bumper in person....very very sick..... Not only does it look good, it is beefy as sin.... nice work john. I can't wait to see the products you have in store for the future.....

My brother in law is going to be going up to Vancouver on Wednesday. He lives in Madras, but that is only a hop skip and a jump from me. If you want to work something out, email me at harpua@bendcable.com Let me know what sort of parts need to be delivered, and i will ask my bro in law if he has room (which i am almost certain that he does) also, what board member are you delivering to? there are only a couple of us here.... talk to you soon....

By "gold" headgaskets, i am sure you are refering to "copper" headgaskets....they are pretty spendy from what i have heard. I have also heard that it is better for a turbo engine to have lower compression and higher boost than high compression and lower boost. hope that helps

http://usmb.net/albums/harpua/westcoast.jpg Heartless....Hope you don't mind, but i started playing with your logo, and this was the result.... Rooinater...im still reworking mine...expect it pretty soon. Oh yea heartless, you are really good with a pen, and i was wondering if you would do me a favor....there is a little project that i have been wanting done for quite some time. If you are interested, email me at harpua@bendcable.com p.s. that pic above is only the partial of what i had done...i lost about an hour and a half worth of work to it.....thats a bummer....

I did one too....i can tweak it to match what you are looking for.... http://usmb.net/albums/harpua/WCStompers.jpg

I have been wondering the same thing....or pretty close to that. Someone has to have an answer.... hey Styles...you want to turn that wagon into a turbo?

I have a friend in an exaust shop that will make anything i want....If you are interested, email me at harpua@bendcable.com i have a hatch i can match it all up to...i could get it done catless from the y pipe back if you wanted it....let me know.

Moosens, i appreciate the offer, but i have a donar car to supply all the needed parts to do this swap. But, i wouldn't mind seeing a picture of a cutup radiator support. It might give me a little bit more of a clue as to what i need to do to it. Can you help me out there? if so, send me a pic...if not, thats cool. I understand completly my email is harpua@bendcable.com

Well after 1/2 hour of searching the board on this subject, i have come up empty handed. Has anyone done this swap? i have a late production '81 hatch with 2 large square headlights, and i want to apply the 4 small headlight setup to the car. I have a donar car, with the complete setup, so my question is, what all parts do i need to nab from the donar car. Do i need to cut out any of the sheet metal to make room for the 4 headlights? How hard is the wiring to supply power to the headlights? I am looking for any and all tips or tricks to get this swap done. I also plan on applying a cyclops light to the center of the 4 headlights when i get the grill all put together on the hatch. should be pretty sweet when its all said and done.... thanks donny

Is your fuel pump in the engine compartment on the drivers side? If it is, try wiring it up direct and see if it runs for more than 15 seconds....maybe your voltage regulator fried when you saw sparks.....it may need replacing.