TROGDOR!

On a whim I checked the current coming through the spark plug wires. Checked with a timing gun on each plug wire about an inch from the coil pack. #1 isn't firing at all at idle, and very sporadically when I rev the engine. So, is this as simple as a dead coil pack, or could it be something else?

Any way to check the belt timing without removing the belt covers and looking? Got a timing light, just need to know what to look for. Sorry for the idiot question, but I've never dealt with a mis-timed engine at the belts, just at the distributor level- which of course, this car doesn't even have.

This would be 80-84 sedan, coupe, and wagon, 82-87 Brat, plus 80-89 hatchback (not 3-door: a "hatchback" will have a similar front end to your Brat, a 3-door will be totaly different). Depending on year and configuration they might be a little different, but any of the above can be made to work without much fuss.

OK, so I DID search for this first, and found lots of questions but no definite answers. Just picked up a 94 Leg LSi and drove it over 200 miles back home. Put in a MAF that was said to be good when I picked the car up, as the previous owner said it needed a MAF so bad it'd barely run. Here's what's going on currently- -Roughest idle I've ever seen -Sputtering at low RPM (below 2000) so badly, I could push it faster between 0 and 5 MPH -Bogging down on the interstate with occasional spurts of acceleration. Still bogging even at 4500rpm. So bad that on 7% grades, I'd hit the hill at 75mph and get to the top doing 50. -16MPG on interstate And the kicker- NO activity from the check engine light what-so-ever. Only thing that happened was after I stopped at Advance when getting in town, it sputtered horribly pulling out of the parking lot, and the CEL blinked for the 3 mile trip home. I read that means it was having a condition that could potentially damage the cat converter- correct? Read the trouble codes just for the heck of it, and got nothing. So... where to begin? Suggestions?

...after 4 years in the Subaru world, I have finally moved up to new gen! Picked up a 94 Leg LSi wagon today, totally rust free, clean leather interior, very very nice. And only $800. She's idling so rough it shakes the whole car, and stumbling a lot upon initial acceleration, also feels like it's not accellerating to its full potential, though I haven't floored it. Other than that issue it seems like a wonderful car and I'm already super excited about driving it. So in closing... I suppose the old gen guys aren't the only ones who have to put up with me anymore. Now next weekend it's time to get my hands dirty on a Legacy for the first time...

No, they're not. There's debate on which models got what, but they did not all come with a 3.7 final drive. My experience has been that every nonturbo 3AT I've had my hands on was 3.9, but some people here enjoy telling me I can't read and that I'm wrong, regardless of the fact that I've swapped in a 3.9 D/R into a 3AT car without changing the diff and had no problems. So my answer is... crawl under the car and look at the diff.

I easily hit 90 in my MPFI nonturbo RX when passing an aggressive semi truck once, and it was still pulling. I have no doubt the turbo has more potential. Heck, my 87 turbo XT with the 3AT would do 110, and that was only limited because it hit redline in that skimpy 3rd gear that they had.

I know for a fact an EA82 engine will fit in the trunk of an EA82 sedan; when I worked for the junkyard someone brought a core engine back that way. So once again... why!?

All 2WD nonturbo 85 GL-10's were MPFI, so that solves that. As for the Leone badge... maybe it was wrecked in early 1985, and the rebuilder couldn't find a door in the US, and had to order one from Japan... and didn't change the molding?

The N/A engine will drop right in in place of the turbo, no modification required. As long as the engine came from an 87.5 or newer XT, you should be good to go. The easy way to tell is to look at the engine. The 87.5 and newer engine will have a big silver intake manifold with four fat tubes, and a big square in the middle that says SUBARU in silver letters on a black background. The air intake hose will connect to the back side of this manifold. Just a long shot, but are you sure the timing isn't 180 degrees out? Also make sure the distributor is installed with the rotor at the correct position- easy mistake to make when installing an engine. This sounds exactly like what happened to my car when the distributor rotor retaining screw fell out. It's worth a look... just pop the disty cap and make sure the rotor is on tight.

I believe the driver's side lap belt buckle also has an actuator on it, but I'm not positive. If it has one, it'll plug in under the seat, and it can be snagged and unplugged when pulling out something you stored under your seat. Worth a look anyway. Also, this has no effect on the operation of the seatbelts. The lock mechanisms in them are activated by G-forces, pulling speed, and gravity. If you have a seatbelt spool removed, hold it at any angle besides upright and try pulling the belt out, and you'll see what I mean.

The 1989 turbo auto trans is probably a 4EAT, and in 94 they only offered the 3 speed in the Loyale. Sorry to break it to you, but if that's the case, this swap requires so much rewiring, you're better off not even bothering. The 4EAT takes a wiring harness as big as the engine's, has its own computer, and is also tied into the ECM I believe. If the 89 trans is a 3 speed, it'll be a direct swap- but you must make sure the diffs match. IIRC the 89 turbo is a 3.7 final drive and the Loyale is a 3.9, so you'd need to swap the rear diff too.

So was my first one, it was "technically" an 87.5 model. My second 87 wagon, though, was carb.

4WD 1987 models still had a carb engine, with some 87.5's getting the SPFI. 2WD models had the SPFI in 87 though.

There's going to be various differences in the engine electrical and control systems, as well as the fuel system. Body wise, 100% identical on the outside except for the trim (which can be changed), interior wise, the GL uses better fabrics but everything is compatible and can be swapped out. All the light lenses and glass are the same. The suspension and 4WD components are identical, provided the cars are similarly equipped (both 4WD, both manual or auto, both wagons, etc.). 4x4 manual trans GL's came with a dual range (high/low range) transmission that is loads better for offroad/snow performance than the Loyale's. Very easy to convert the Loyale, details are all over this board. The automatics will be identical, provided they're both 3 speeds. You can even use the GL's carbed engine in the Loyale if need be, but you'll have to swap over pretty much everything but the block, heads, oil pan, and timing components. But if you end up needing an engine, it can be done. So yes, a GL makes a great parts car for a Loyale... and personally I'd swap in all the GL's goodies into the Loyale, while being mechanically almost the same, the GL's are much more comfortable cars.

The lights look pretty good, but the deflector... looks like a mustache. The classic Skip treatment to the wheels looks good on any Soob.

In order to get a 25 spline axle for my car, I had to look one up for an '88 RX. Their computer should say 23 or 25 spline, and if it says 23 spline, there's no way it'll work. Autozone couldn't get a 25 spline axle at all, and Advance had to look at all kinds of stuff before we could find one. Didn't try Napa. EDIT- on second thought, I have a compatible axle sitting in my storage unit right now. It's used, but there's nothing wrong with it. If you needed, get in touch with me and we can work something out.

Gary, let me know if you find one, otherwise I'll just reserve the one off of this Loyale for you. Like I said, it's going to be at LEAST march 25 before I get it, because the car isn't available for taking until the beginning of march, and I'll be out of the country from the 8th to the 20th.

You'll probably need to get one off a board member, as most junkyards will not sell anything with a catalytic converter in it. I'm going to be parting out a Loyale soon that should have a good one on it, but it's going to be over a month before I get my hands on it.

Which one? In anything but a turbo engine, running premium will actually slightly hurt performance. These cars are slow, slow, slow, especially the automatics. It's just the nature of the beast. Do a basic tune-up, make sure it's timed properly, and that's about as good as it gets without tinkering with aftermarket stuff. On the bright side, these engines are damn near bulletproof and can handle high revs fairly well, so if you have to run it out to redline while passing, no worries.

L-series refers to the sedan/wagon/coupe body. Since you're doing XT to XT, your original dogbone will be fine. Same goes for the belt driven accessories, just slap them on and go. Throttle cable will also be the same. Actually you won't have to change a thing besides the intake and exhaust hardware. P.S. - got any plans for the spider intake on your original turbo engine?

Gary, I did this exact same swap this fall. It's super easy, and the disty should plug right in. Everything you should need to know is in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40961 That includes my report on what it took to do the job. A few things related to mounting the engine in place may be different on the XT, but all the electrical stuff will be identical.

Is it MPFI or SPFI? MPFI is plug and play, no modifying required. Just the engine and attached parts plus intake and exhaust hardware. If it's SPFI, there's more wiring required, and I can't tell you how to do it... but someone else can. Either way, the original crossmember will be just fine.

Isn't much on paper, but there's a big real world difference. The SPFI has the typical ruggedness of most EA82's, it's a brute of an engine, very tough and gets the job done. The MPFI is just as reliable if not more so, but is much more smooth and refined. It reminds me more of an EJ than an EA. I have one in one of my RX's now and it's a pleasure to drive.

Numbchux wins the thread.