TROGDOR!

From what I understand, the purpose of slotting is to allow the rotor to cool more efficiently, reducing fade. Shouldn't actually make the car stop faster. And in this town, which is nestled between a number of mountains, I experience fade just through regular driving on the stock rotors. When I went to slotted on my old Nissan, I noticed a significant reduction in the amount of fade. As for the price... usually you can expect to pay $150 for a good set of performance rotors (unless they're for a Honduh or some other typically riced car), so $170 is a bit high, but still in the ballpark. That site also offers street performance brake pads, but I never asked about them for our cars.

In this state, 80 is automatic reckless driving. Our highway speed limit is 70. Yes, such a charge DOES exist.

YES, they exist!! http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_subaru.shtml Application is listed as 90-94 Loyale 4WD, but they should fit all 85-94 L-series, Loyale, and XT. I'm a firm believer in slotted rather than drilled, so those are the ones I asked about- $171.39 a pair, a bit steep but still in the ball game for rotors. According to the guy I talked to, they're in stock and ready to ship! Prices aren't listed online, you'll have to call them. They seem to be a small company- I got a real person after two rings of the phone, and he seems friendly to deal with.

Yes, it'll run like crap. Keep the timing belts lined up properly. Advance your timing with the distributor.

Considering leaving the wing off my RX when I have it painted, but curious how it will look. Anyone got any pics of an RX coupe, with full body kit, but no wing?

I've never had a Subaru with a 4EAT... but from my experience with automatic trannys in Japanese cars, the Power light is for "power" mode in the transmission- when you drive it hard, it goes into this mode, letting the engine rev higher before shifting gears for more acceleration.

Yes, just find a place to put the diff lock switch and it should work fine. The plastic itself is identical to the standard Dual Range piece, except for the hole for the switch.

Guys, guys... he's running the car in a demo derby. Destroying it. He doesn't want to do any extra work to it. Tranny swaps are out of the question. As people said before: To run in FWD- remove the rear half of the driveshaft. To run in RWD- remove the front axle shafts, but leave the outer cups and spindles in the hubs to hold everything together. Leave the red 4WD button engaged.

EASY. Swap trans with shifters attached, and get the plastic console piece that snaps in to cover them. As they say in Germany, das ist alles.

Be glad the car kept you alive. American cars are no tougher than a Subaru body-wise, many are actually WEAKER. Smacking a curb at speed is going to damage the suspension of ANY car. Yes, a 30 year old American tank is tougher than a Subaru. Anything made within the last 20 years, fahgheddaboutit.

Has a regular double core EA82T rad. Thinking of replacing the Tstat anyway, perhaps could be stuck open now? Easy enough for me to just take a look, at least. Coolant is ciculating like crazy, I can hear it gurgling through the heater core whenever the car is running. This car has the best cooling system I ever had, after flushing the rad over the summer.

Anyone know what the stock thermostat temp is on an EA82? My car has an OE thermostat in it and is majorly overcooling. Now that it's below 40 out, the needle barely gets off the line, and I've got hardly any heat. Basically I need to know if getting the 195 degree thermo from the auto parts store is going to change anything. And no, the electric fan is not running.

May want to check the mount that holds the shifter assembly to the body, you have to get it from the bottom via the driveshaft tunnel. It's an often-neglected mount to tighten down, and having it loose will result in sounds like this as the shifter plate bumps against the body.

Almost forgot... the common as dirt, cheap to buy SPFI engine will require a total rewiring and computer swap to run in your car. Not a good plan to swap, especially when the XT engine matches the electronics already in the car and makes 10 more hp anyway.

The engine is an EA82T, T being for turbo. You can swap in an 85-90 EA82T from a GL, GL-10, RX, or Loyale as a direct drop-in, with a little bit of swapping of electronics for an 85-87 model. With a little modification (if you can swap the engine, you can easily do this) you can drop in a carbed EA82 from an 85-87 DL/GL/GL-10 (84hp, 101tq) or a multi point fuel injected EA82 from an 87.5-91 XT coupe (100hp, 103tq- could use one from an 85-87 XT as well, but you'd need to scavenge some parts off a later model XT). I have the XT engine in my 89 RX and it's a good, solid engine, not nearly as peppy as the turbo, but plenty of power off the line and AMAZING gas mileage. If you didn't want to go turbo again, that'd be my recommendation. Of course, that's for direct drop-ins. Many people are fans of modifying the car to take an EJ22 out of a Legacy, which is quite a bit tougher.

Well first of all... what car do you have?

The little chrome stripe along the door trim on EA82's- can this be easily removed? I'm assuming it just peels right out of the rubber, but I don't have a guinea pig to try it with. Namely looking for info about the 85-86 style trim, the kind that attaches with sticky tape instead of through holes in the body.

EA82's will throw rods when run for extended periods with no oil in the crankcase. I've heard stories of several doing this, and I also bought a car in that condition. Usually they throw one through the bottom of the power steering pump- and many still run!! I never test-ran the one I got with a thrown rod because it had no starter, but the engine still turned over freely by hand! More than likely would have run.

Yes, that's the diff lock knob, and it's only on full time 4WD models- certain turbo cars and the RX. As JWX said the car has an open AWD trans and the power is distributed to any of the axles at any given time. This lock switch locks it into 50/50 LOCKED distribution, just like a regular 4WD with 4WD engaged. Your car most likely has a dual range trans, which means it's normally in FWD. When you lift the 4WD lever it locks it into 4WD, which makes it run just like a car with the diff lock engaged.

So after talking to someone tonight about the proper way to calculate the mileage discrepancy from running oversize tires. Example used is running 205/70/14 tires on a 'Roo. 12% bigger than stock, IIRC. Either way, the number used in the example is 12% larger than stock. One point of view is that the way to calculate is using this percentage of error. As in, the speedometer will always be in error by 12%. At 10mph the speedo would read 11.2mph, and at 70, it would read 78.4. To calculate gas mileage, you would multiply your odometer reading by 1.12. The other point of view is that the speedometer error stays constant, no matter what the speed. As in, a 6mph error will always be a 6mph error. That the rollout of the car will stay the same. As in, where one rotation of the car's wheel used to take up x feet of road, now it takes y feet of road. Once you establish the error in MPH, you calculate accordingly based on mileage. Percentage has nothing to do with it, we're dealing with hard numbers only. So which point of view is correct? Who's going to actually be more accurate as to how many miles their car traveled?

What he said- swap the intake manifold complete, as well as the distributor. Problem solved.

Stick one of the torque converter bolts back into the flexplate from the back side if at all possible, then slip the box end of a wrench over it. Jam the open end of the wrench onto one of the bellhousing studs, and use it to keep the engine from turning while you remove the bolts in the center of the flexplate.

This is a common problem. The voltage regulator has died. It's internally regulated, so you need to replace the alternator. This WILL damage your electronics if you leave it alone.

Yes, 1990 Loyale would work... Easiest way to get the right one with the parts store dummies is to order one for a 91-94 Loyale. By that point they were ALL the same and there *should* be no confusion. That is, if your car is a nonturbo. If it's turbo, forget everything I just said.

If you do decide to go the simple route and swap in a different EA82, here's how- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40961 I did it last weekend. Fairly easy.