1-3-2-4

ugh so it's not advised to do this? I tried to put the stud in without dropping the Y pipe and that was not going to happen.. I think the stud and nut was like $25 or $30 something. Nothing else has come out but I expect a stud to back out while undoing the header

hmmm never seen headrests like that from a forester...

let me double check in my car first if so I will take it.. just my sunroof switch might be in the way.. I will try and grab a pic tomorrow.

did you have to drop your headliner? mine is starting to sag a bit but man i don't want to have to deal with the hassle of trying to find the map lights... I might not be able to put one in because of the aftermarket sunroof switch might be in the way

where did you tap in for the map light??? that would make my day seriously if I could have a map light lol and the auto's have a EGR because it's something emissions related.. I don't miss it one bit.. I had one stick open on a 98 Forester.

is the heater core in the same spot for most of the 2nd and 3rd gens?

It sounds like something is blocking something from turning it will suck if it all has to come out again

I still love my car sometimes it gives me little issues that fail but I've never once said I hated the car.. It has more then met my expectations. Plus it's fun to have to give people rides in 6 inches of snow and hearing them say wow your car moves like it's dry & clear out! priceless

No problem

heater core? those are the A/C system lines you want to look on page 3-6 but it still does not show where the heater core is if that's where you are trying to get to.

squealing belts usually means belt slippage.. I had when people drive around like this.. they do make a spray for this but it's better to make sure the belts have the correct amount of tension on them.

hey since we are talking exhaust stuff the headers what size bolt fits? I notice the studs tend to back out and at least one fell out on the passenger side and the dealer charges crazy amounts for the nut and the stud. I noticed the last owner must of used just a plain hex bolt but not sure of the size and length but I find it works good.

I get a stupid rattle at idle sometime between the 1st and 2nd cat I have no heat shields but I've have to check with the car running I need a bolt extractor for where the center pipe mounts on that metal piece.. when i removed the old stuff 2 years ago it just snapped and I had no time to remove the broken bolt. I know for sure I can't work on it this weekend so it will have to be around next. Anyone use the denso sensor before should I put some anti seize on it?

My 95 leggy wagon is 5MT and has no EGR only the auto's have them.

I wish i had map lights

can't direct link but I know what all of them look like.. Is the threads really going to get that messed up removing it?

I was going to go te oxygen sensor socket way but I know they charge big amounts for small tools like that. but still it would still need to hit it with some PB blaster, no?

If the battery is weak it wont really crank well at all.. However your video I've never heard a Subaru starter like that before. load testing the battery would help.

I've seen many of older people 50+ putting in 87 in the turbo subies (not that I would do that....) I know a friend who is a subaru tech says they have seen a lot with valve issues I think he said melting or something like that.

my whole hose is dry rotted

subaruparts.com finally shipped the order the plastic part and the fast hose that goes from the block to it.. However I got 220 from a full tank with snow tires on that's better then the last two weeks... I'm sure when I switch to the summers it should get a bit better as well.

maybe for an auto but after I blocked the wheels I had the crank bolt off in less then 2 min. dare I say it, I thought it was pretty fun doing the timing belt.. I got confused with the arrows myself and all but once I did that and knew which to look for I was done in like an hour. Going to do it all again this spring because i did not do the cam seals which area leaking but I have them ready and I have an impact for the cams. Turning the cams over by hand via the sprocket only is a good workout!

back when I was taking off the crank pulley in 5th gear and ebrake on I was still able to move the car backwards.. I later had to chock the wheels.

never thought of that most sites I go to hate that because they say it messes up the search or something like that.

hmm interesting never thought of it that way