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just doing my inside LED lighting was about $65-70..

I did a custom dome light and map light each having their own LED driver's.. the dome light it's self is more then bright enough for the whole car I'm kicking myself still I did not take my rear tail lights off my Legacy they were JDM taillights. I was going to do custom rear turn signals but having issues trying to figure out how to do the dual brightness with the headlights on since the driver will always want to do the same voltage output.

is one of these for the back of the oil pump? If so what's the other two rubber o-rings for?

I don't think so.. maybe rotation direction of engine? just thinking of something Japan got a Ej25 right? did any of those have HG issues? I know they don't keep cars that long over in Japan because of taxes as the car gets older.. but I don't remember off hand if those motors had a EGR on them.

call ahead to make sure they have the part in stock! I got burned like that when my lower radiator hose went.. I was stuck at 2 Am so I had my laptop with me and I wen to the Advance site and it said they had it in stock.. went that sunday morning as soon as they opened and after 10 min of looking they did not have it.. I figure I would warn you first.. I had to walk 2 miles down to Auto zone to get the hose...

Oh right.. hmm

Uhmm no.. the AC will cycle on and off while driving normal and sitting idle. yes the AC will cut out when you are at WOT but that's for another reason.. I see what's going on here but it's a little too late.

hmm interesting never heard of that before

Which one of the remotes do you have? looks like this? http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm

You mean you have the keyless entry with factory alarm?

Also known as the MLS layered steel.

Funny my friend that has a 02 Forester his CEL kept going on sometimes and sometimes not.. I felt so bad he drove it all the way to my house only for the CEL to go off.. I scanned it anyways and no stored code.. Finally he did catch it and it was the knock sensor. I did mine early this year and mine never went into limp mode.. but I think my plug wires and oxygen sensor need to be changed.. sometimes I will get some heavy hesitation when leaving from stop lights, only happens when engine has warmed up.

oh no I knew about the problem, I knew what would trigger it After I did the first 2 hours of driving I was pretty relaxed. Right now all that's happening is the cylinder is over pressuring the cooling system which causes the radiator cap to open which then blows it all into the overflow tank. I'm not sure which cylinder is causing it but I will know next week.. they look like the factory gaskets if you ask me.. I'm at 226K right now

For the radio stuff does the tach drop to zero when this all happens with a loss of pickup? I had that happen on my Legacy turns out the output was grounding to the alternator body which really did it in.. any type of load I had on the car the lights would turn off, or my radio would turn off then back on.. Or the car acted like it wanted to turn off.

not true about the HG's I did a 667 mile trip on failing HG's with bubbles in the overflow tank and not once the whole trip did I overheat, and no I did not take out the thermostat. What will overheat it is having the AC on because of all that extra hot air hitting the radiator will overheat it quicker then me just driving without the AC on.

Fixed for you

seems good nice they include a thermostat gasket.

the compressor gets the signal to turn on and off via pressure switch on top of the dryer most likely the pressure is low.. btw when you do the test with the A/C on and on high open the windows since on the evaporator core is a little temp sensing probe that also tells when to turn the compressor on or off.

Time for the rock auto order... New plug wires, front oxygen sensor, gaskets came around $168 Decent kit.. at least it has markings on the timing belt.. Next week I will get the oxygen sensor and spark plug wires.. the shipping costs where getting just too high coming from 3 different locations.. I did buy a new flywheel.

heh speedbleeder's site the stainless steel is like $15 I hope that's for two.. SB7100S http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/category//

wow I'm looking to buy the speed bleeder now but I can't figure out where you order it from... *edit Oh nevermind I found the site

speaking about cracks and all make sure the replacement is put on the right way and not overtightened.

hmm I was just reading another topic here it seemed like the older EA stuff had stepped flywheels and all the EJ stuff is flat.

I did this on a friend's 02 forester both inner's the passenger side was harder lol I was fighting with the curclip.. however I did not know my channel lock's had a 90 degree tips which would of made it A LOT faster then how I did it.. My friend was going to replace his OEM axle with a aftermarket store brand.. I listened to the people here not to have him do it (was my first time doing an axle) it's not bad at all very easy, it's been about a year now and no problems.

nothing much really.. I got one for my EJ25 for $26 on ebay.. also they fail with the crack because moisture can get in it. I took my old cracked one and put it on my oscilloscope and it still works when I tap on it but it was time for a new one.