subusolo2nut

Ya--I have drilled rotors for many years (Formula Ford's are solids too)--all it takes is a drill press & a fair amount of time--each rotor has 51 holes in it --just rember to not drill them in a even pattern--vary it a bit & they won't howl-- The stud holes in the hubs were welded over & I spun them in a lathe to re-index to the 120mm pattern--the wheels are older Empie-Super Beetle wheels--the studs are 7/16 RH (chev & other domestic stuff)--I have a goal to stay within $2000 for the project--was cutting up a stock manifold this evening--am going to weld 90 degree 1.25" tubing to a old weber side-draft manifold flange & use a 40mm Delorto carb--it'll be living in the old spare tire area--I have another thread looking for a newer hood scoop & hood vents off of a '97ish Outback sport--need a damaged hood--anyone got one??

If you stripped the threads out--you might need to get a "oversize" plug--these cut new, slightly larger threads--Napa stores carry them--of course, the oil pan is a piece of cake to R&R--just slap a new (to you) one on & be done with it---

We use BG 44K at the shop when everything else fails--Great stuff!! Interesting one for everyone--I have been using NGK B7ET (Mazda RX7 plugs) in my '85 Hatch & my Wife's '89 GL Loyale--they seem to give 1 to 3 more MPG--These are trinary electrode plugs--not to be confused with "splitfire" plugs--I won't put those in my worst enemy's car!! Your "mileage" may vary--and you would need to play with the heat range I started using them about 10 yrs ago--we were building MGB performance engines & indexing standard plugs, so just for play we put a set in a engine we had on the dyno--it made 6HP more with all other factors the same---

A 2-pass or better radiator will do wonders for any car. You should check your thermostat, water pump & keep an eye on the bypass/heater hose off the water pump (hose is cheap--headgaskets are not ) I bought my last Subie because the customer blew the hose & drove the car --after I put in a used engine all was well--there are also a couple of small 1/4 hoses around the intake that should be replaced--they get soft & blow easy--I tell my customers that the cooling system is the best way to keep your Subie alive--all of mine are over 200k---

You could use a relay (one of the Hella-types) that "switches" between a "normaly on" (relay energised) & a "normaly off" (relay off)--use the terminal "30" to the fan & terminals "87" & "87a" to a fused + supply & the normal A/C power supply & of course switched (forgot the term #s) & ground--I'd wire it so when you turn your switch on in the dash, the relay would supply fused + supply--use a good relay that is rated at least 20A & fuse the power supply lead for 5A less(=15A) that way you blow the fuse first!! I believe that the real Hella units are rated at 30A. Hope that helps--I can scratch out a wiring diagram if you want-- Dean Almost forgot--either wire your switch to Ign + or use a lighted switch--don't want a dead battery!!

As a side note--you guys that are lifting yours--these will help control the front suspension & i'm thinking of designing the rear inner bushes--need to know if the FWD & 4WD bushes are the same or not---I have a example of a 4WD rear (84 GL wagon). Not an open ad, but if anybody else is interested--once I start cutting sets--I can make 5/6 sets at a pass--helps to have the lathe set-up. Dean britnutdl@rvi.net performbdesign@rvi.net

Well- I already have the basic set designed, so I can cut a set for $30.00--can't cost much for shipping--I'd say $35/40 total per car set including shipping (depends on how fast you want them:) )--The material is UHMW--self-lubricating thermoplastic--abrasion index is similar to stainless steel--I use the material in place of spherical bearings--only drawback is it must be machined, not melted & poured. I can send you the easiest way to get the old bushings out--messy & ugly, but its rubber after all--- Dean

Don't know about the meet in Aug--I'll try--As for the bushings--I can make them any way you want--to the best of my knowledge--inner bushings are the same from the mid 70's to the last of the Loyale series---If you have a spare control arm, the measurements are---2.175 to ends of inner sleeve & arm sleeve width is 1.910 or so---E me as to what you are interested in--- Dean

The address is--http://performancebydesign.netfirms.com/subaru.html

Thought everyone would be interested in a project--'82 GLF--1800 with a 40mm Delorto carb, dual 2" pipes back to a Dynomax dual in/dual out muffler, re-drilled hubs (4 X 120mm bolt pattern) with 15" rims & tires---starting to do the body mods--have a '01 Legacy Sedan 4.5" rear spoiler on the way, will flare the wells 2" & build a front air dam & rear cap. I build hard bushings & suspension mods for race cars & wanted a low-cost play toy--so here's the link-- Subaru Project Will be ready (I think) about a month or so--just in time for the start of the auto-cross season. Will keep the page updated as the car progresses--the current height at the roofline is 41"--ground clear is 8"--plan to have the final clearance about 4.5" to 5.5"

Must be "4 wheel steering"!! Too far to go for me---but---that would be a real sweet ride:D

We use it at the shop--It's a Locktight product--I forget the # also, but it is a anaerobic sealer--looks & smells like strawberry jelly--I use it when I want a part REALLY sealed.

Wife & I had a Justy for over 8yrs before a Large-Hulking-SUV slammed it into a GMC van going the other way--Wife STILL misses it--was a '91 with 125k on it (we bought it with 4k!!)--the plastic valve cover leaks (lots) & Subie Man wants big $ for the gasket--but I found that the stock gasket is the one that seals better. Yes--avoid the ECVT trans--The waterpump is a roiling pain in the*&(%!! to repair--but the T-belt is the best replace I've ever done--All around Great car--average MPG was in the 40's--used NGK trinary spark plugs (B7ET)-Mazda RX7--went up 3/5 mpg after. My vote if you want a great little car!

hummm- a GLF--I'm doing a extreme mod to a '82 GLF--re-drilled all the hubs to a 4 on 120mm bolt pattern so I can use 15"wheels with 195/45VR15 Kumo supra tires--lowered the car 3"--re-wound the front springs & re-indexed the rear torsion bars--3" flares with a front air dam--etc-etc-etc. will have pics soon--going to call it my T Rex Wrx--have the 1800 & changing the intake to accept a 40mm Delorto--thought it'd be a fun solo car without spending a ton of cash--

re-read your post---if it was mechanical(only)--you would have a choke knob on the dash on one side of the steering wheel or another--electric choke heats a bi-metal inside the housing--take a test-light & check for power at the wire on the choke cap--if there is power--you might have a bad bi-metal--if no power, you could bypass from the coil + lead to the choke cap (remember to cut the wire from the cap first--your could backfeed the system if not cut) --E me back (see my bio)

Well--A '82 could be either one--depends on the emissions package (calif or 49-state) & the month of manufacture--I've seen both with no rhyme or reason in '81 thru '83--guess it was what Subie wanted that week? In any case--the descriptive seemed to fit a electric choke prob--still worth a check-out.

Might sound simple---but check & see if the choke is getting power. If not, it will open part -way causing elevated idle speed & poor fuel mileage. I have also seen the bi-metal inside the choke go "bad" & cause this:)