AKghandi

Aha the problem is its had front end damage and It doesn't have the orig core support..

But also my wagons been completely apart and there's missmatched/missing parts ( like my hillholder cable) so it may look different than yours but you get the idea.. Lol our cars look almost identical, well they will after I fix that silver fender and black hood lol

No problem man And that's my 87 gl-10 turbo.. It's a beast I scare myself sometimes lol I call it the Honda stomper

Washed and detailed my 87 gl-10 got some p.o filth out of it put a few random trim pieces back in place. tomorrow she's getting new fenders bumper valence corner lights hood hatch and grill off my other wagon to undo a recent mishap in the burger king parking lot... Wasn't even my fault. But on the up side it will be completely blue again the shades are a lil off but Oh well On a side note why does it always feel like a confession when I post here? Hello my name is Adam and I'm an addict. Lol

Hmm that sounds about right it's a very deep color. So next step is to get some mixed and see if it's right thanks much

Did you check the oil feed lines? They could be leaking onto the exhaust and burning off befor it makes a stain.

My 87 gl10 has a very odd light blue paint job it's not like any other Subaru color I've seen I'm going to start stocking up on body work supplies And I'd like to get factory paint but alas I cannot find my paint code. So if anyone can tell me where to find it that would be helpful. And it's not on a tag on the strut tower. So the other thing I need is the different blue paints for 86-88 I think it's galactic blue or Bermuda blue. examples would be useful. I don't think it's lake blue as its darker than that

If you want a stock wheeler get a hatchie Crank up the suspension put 27s on it And weld the rear diff. Bam instant wheeler. I got one for $150 needs a few things but it runs like new. Basically 150$ 4 wheeler with heat and a stereo

I find getting the axle back trough the spindle is best accomplished with the axle nut and 2 claw hammers or2 flat heads works good

Yea after you do 4 or 5 you start figuring ways to do it faster. I've done both my front cvs on mygl10 in 1 hr and 32mins. The first time I tried to replace on I did it the way GD described I found it to be more difficult I only did it that way because the bj pinch bolt was stripped but after I replaced the knuckle to solve the wheel bearing issue this was resolved. Also I'm not knocking anyone's methods I'm just stating what I've found to be effective Don't let my age fool you Ive got a lot of expirience with every type of car except Hondas which is purely preference .:Flame:Hondas

If you search ebrake you'll find some write ups I believe you need the calipers from the rear of a Nissan 240 sx not sure on the year.. But since my wagon has rear disks already I'm going to add a hydro lock up for the rear. Should be pretty easy

Ok I got some video of the spring http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5x9dXB-1s8

I'm not sure how to post pics from my I touch but I'll get some video and post it when I get off work. And don't be nervous these cars are made to be worked on.

Exactly..this was of course discovered after I pulled the door off and removed the entire wiring harness and checked all the wires.. So I went to the relay under the pass seat then I just followed the wires and bam! 2 pieces of wire and 3 wire nuts later and I got windows again

It can be done in less than an hr. unbolt the wheel remove the 36mm axle nut remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold the hub to the rotor use a peice of wood and a hammer to tap the axle out then remove the balljoint pinch bolt spread the pinch with a flat head then pry the ball joint out of the knuckle the roll pin is easy just find a Philips screwdriver that fits hammer it out from the side without the indent then just pull the knuckle away till you have enough clearence to get the axle out you may. Need to turn the steering to the side your working on for added clearance install is opposite of removal also note the orientAtion of the indent on the doj if you put it on 180out the roll pin will only go in halfway

If you ever need any help pm me Ive been there already I've done just about everything you can think of and I'd like to help you avoid some head aches. Also make sure you adjust your hill holder.loose is better than tight. I did a clutch and adjusted till it was tight..took me 4 hrs to figure out why my brakes were locked up.

Keep up the good work! the brats lookin awesome I can't wait for summer so I can start the resto on my gl-10 and my $150 84 hatchie I'm glad I'm not the only 18 yr old Subaru nut.

So... What happend to this car? I'm very curious to see how it turned out.

Just for anyone who is wondering the problem was a broken connected under the carpet in the fr pass foot well.

And if you wanna test it put it in 4wd and drive off a small lip if when the front wheels start to fall the car lunges forward or backwards you got the wrong ratios because my rear diff was a higher gear mine lunged forward a lil If it's lower youll lunge back a lil. driving like 5mph off a pavement break works good you just wanna make sure both front wheels leave the edge at the same time this is what I did. And don't drive off like a curb or anything that's more than like 5 inches tall. be smart lol

So I thought I'd put my 2 cents in. When I got my car It did exactly what your describing, it was because I had a 3.90trans and a 3.70 rear diff. I put the diff From the donnor car in and with correct ratios it pops in and out very easily and it does it on dry pavement just as easily. i drive it like a rally Car every day 5000 miles Not one complaint.

Keep up the good work! Hows my welder working for ya? And sorry I haven't came and gotten that marker light ,the hatchie is still imoble I have the cv but its way too cold right now but with any luck I'll have it rolling soon

My 87 gl10 has that same problem mine still charges but not at idle..

Posted a video its pretty dark so I'll make another tomorrow http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iolww_Tz2Kc

It's yellow with black racing stripes interior is tan quad headlights runs amazing aside from the exhaust being out from under it. missing a mud flap the heater doesnt work no real dents to speak of there some rust but nothin that can't be cut away for bigger tires needs shocks in the back and a lil touch up on the paint but honestly best 150 I have ever spent.