subeman90

I know I still have to get a dash in the GL...I have way too many irons in the fire.

not sure if there is an official cut off date but prices do go up 19 days before the event. The sooner the better if you are going to do it so that if we have to register extra cars to meet the quota then we know before the 11th hour.

if you registered all 3 it would greatly help us out....

update! connie 2 andrew 3 moosens 3 goob 1 nkx 1 subeman90 3 njd 1 backwood 1 hatchsub 1 mr whirly 3 ----------------- 19 total so far! Come on folks we need 25 or the hat is gonna get passed around.

there is a trailer supply place close to where I work..I can check if they have a pre-made reciever that you could just buy. let me know.

Ok folks bumping it up...and why don't we have a sticky? so far if I read this post right these people paid and have confirmation in hand: connie 2 andrew 3 moosens 3 goob 1 nkx 1 subeman90 3 njd 1 backwood 1 hatchsub 1 ----------------- 16 total so far! Come on folks we need 25 or the hat is gonna get passed around. Prices increase 19 days before the show according to their website. So come on folks quit thinking about the food and lets get them registered...only a little more then a month away

still interested...got a few things to do though this month

unsure if I am going to get a motel or not for sat night. seafood= no way

is it just me or does that rover absolutely just suck? Looks like good fun guys hopefully next time!

Mary, I can tell you what is wrong with your baja...the damn tires...trust me I almost found out the hard way this past weekend.

never been to one personally...and there are 2 within 10 miles of me. I'm game

truth! it is a shame but it is the truth.

don't worry about the imp...i was in my baja the last time I was there.

lets just see how many we get before I go asking for $$$$ if needed we can pass the hat at the show. Since you are new: Make sure you get a post card in the mail from them within the next few days or so....you will need this postcard to register the cars when you get to the show (don't lose it).

weekend of 4-20 is out for me an dave/melis since that is when the svx meet is.

I just registered 3 subarus and I did the stuff for the club spot. The price is now $150 so we really need to make the 25 cars or I am going to need some help from the people that are going to attend.

my garage man in Reinholds PA will do it. he is minutes from the turnpike at the Reading Exit (forget the #'s since they changed them) PM me if you want a phone #. I have been dealing with these folks for 15 or so years...and they do mostly subaru stuff.

I'm out...that stupid trip I have to go on is the next day. Next time!

easy job! Absolutely make sure you get the right cruise computer for the right transmission in the car (auto trans CC computer will not work on a manual trans car) You need: -the cable and articulator that goes under the hood -the correct CC computer -the switch you put into the dash -the switch you put in the steering wheel (you do not need the whole wheel) -brake light switch (you will find there is a different plug already there for the different switch) -clutch switch (if stick shift) Notice I didn't say anything about wiring....'cause it is already there!!!!!! All parts are easy to find and the computer location is to the right of the glove box (legacy only impreza is under dash on driver side)(you have to remove the GB) and it is a little bit of a pain in the a$$ to get at but not too bad. All parts are interchangable with automatics/manuals EXCEPT the actual computer. You need to make sure all the parts come from the same generation of legacy (or impreza if that is what you are working on) Believe it or not this is super easy to do!!!!! if you know what you are doing it is an hour tops seriously since it is all "plug and play"

This writeup is written by our member Snowman..please direct any questions to him. orig: post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71573 I think I may have finally figured out what was wrong with Sophia, my 92 Legacy. So, basically all winter, my fuel economy has sucked. Most of the time it has varied between 19 and 15 mpg running around town or on the highway, which is not what this car should be getting even in the winter. During the last six months, virtually everything that could possibly affect fuel economy has been changed: spark plugs, air filter, oxygen sensor, PCV valve, fuel filter, reset the ECM, and cleaned the MAF (the only thing I left alone was the plug wires, since they appear to be about a year old). None of those things made any difference. At that point, I even started checking around to see if I was leaking fuel out on the ground, which I wasn't. In addition to the fuel economy issues, about 2 out of 5 cold starts would take longer than normal, requiring about three seconds of cranking before the engine would fire. Finally, I realized that these two things might be connected, but what would cause such an issue? I then remembered that a previous EJ22 had developed an external fuel leak from one of the injector o-rings at 150,000 miles, after I had driven through some really cold weather. If the o-ring that seals the fuel passage externally could leak, then why couldn't the one on the bottom that seals the fuel passage from the intake manifold also leak, causing poor fuel economy and flooding the cylinders causing hard starting? Yesterday, I decided to pull the injectors and have a look. Lo and behold, all four bottom o-rings had a bunch of tiny cracks on the inner surface, which looked like enough to leak some fuel. A trip to Schmucks and $7 later, I had new o-rings on my injectors. The starting problem has not reappeared, and I took a short trip down to Girdwood to check out my fuel economy, which came out to be 24 mpg. Of course, that's only one trip, so I can't scientifically prove that any difference was made, but going from 16 to 24 mpg would probably indicate some difference. So, if your fuel economy sucks and you don't know why, pull your injectors out and look at the o-rings. Part 2: I spent a week trying to track down the o-rings by application when I had the external leak last year on my other car, with no luck. None of the parts stores even list them, and the dealer had to special order them but ended up getting the wrong ones. Finally, I just checked around in the o-ring assortment at one of the stores and found some that matched up. The smaller one can be exactly matched, but for the larger one, the closest you can get is one that is just a hair smaller on the inside diameter. It works just fine though...I ran it for several months with no problems. I'll check and see if I can find out the exact dimensions and post them in the USRM for reference. Another thing to mention is that I was concerned about using "standard" o-rings for fuel system stuff. As part of my search last year, I went to a major rubber products distributor and asked about it. They checked in their books and assured me that regular butyl-rubber o-rings are just fine for gasoline and that's probably what the stock ones are made of. The only difference between the butyl-rubber o-rings and the highest grade ones that they manufacture is the ability to withstand extreme high temperatures, but the range they are talking about is way higher than you would ever see in that application anyway. So yes, to answer your question, they are available at any parts store. You just have to take your injector and the old o-rings with you in order to find the right ones. They are also cheap that way. I think I paid less than $10 for enough to do all my injectors and some spares.

tell him to leave his beat up chevy at home an bring a good car to carlisle... Anyhow since we are bumping this around....Come on folks lets get some registered (I know I have dragged my arse a little here)

i'm talking about the time between when you introduced him and when we got back from the autox. That truck was there for over 30 min before anyone even said whose it was. I didn't tolerate it with the idiot that parked his passat there either and I was already pi$$ed for the jerkoff that wanted to beat ben's, keith's, and myself a$$es for telling him this wasn't the parking lot. FWIW, I wasn't to thrilled about the porsche that was parked there either at one point. look I'm not trying to start anything but seriously...the parking lot was 20 yards away. And if this was directed at me (which I'm not sure if it was ment to be directly or not) tell Charlie that I am sorry..but don't forget to remind him who was the one that went with keith to look at all those parts he got from the stash. Like I said though.....sorry :-\

if some of us would have known then that might have been less of an issue....but when you spend all morning fighting off a-holes (and being threatened) who think our show spot is the parking lot you tend to be a little critical.

also make sure you get some extra bolts and nuts while doing this...it sucks when you lose one and it helps sometimes to show where things should go.

easy job! Absolutely make sure you get the right cruise computer for the right transmission in the car (auto trans CC computer will not work on a manual trans car) You need: -the cable and articulator that goes under the hood -the correct CC computer -the switch you put into the dash -the switch you put in the steering wheel (you do not need the whole wheel) -brake light switch -clutch switch Notice I didn't say anything about wireing....'cause it is already there!!!!!! All parts are easy to find and the computer location is to the right of the glove box (you have to remove the GB) and ti is a little bit of a pain in the a$$ to get at but not too bad. All parts are interchangable with automatics/manuals EXCEPT the actual computer. You need to make sure all the parts come from the same generation of legacy...you are interested in 90-94 only. Believe it or not this is super easy to do!!!!! if you know what you are doing it is an hour tops seriously since it is all "plug and play"