gwilson87

it was in my brat and running alright. It didn't like to idle below 900 so that annoyed the emissions guys. And I was getting 2200 ppm on the hydrocarbon emissions which everyone said was due to a severe miss at idle. So instead of searching for a fix, i bought a $180 legacy and did the EJ22 swap!

I have an entire EA81 engine sitting here in my garage...

Plenty of power is right! This puppy hauls pretty good! Finally got some internet back so I can give a little update. The CEL, battery, and tach are all working good. I haven't hooked up the oil light, or another one (can't think of it right now. I got the car mostly back together to suffice my needs. ordering a few parts for it tonight to mount the radiator fan. Hopefully I can order the new tires also soon. I am planning on making the lift tomorrow or sometime next week. I am trying something a little different than the usual homemade blocks on each nut. pictures and excellent diagrams will come also. This is where the drafting designer in me gets giddy.

IT STARTED LAST NIGHT!!!!! *insert a couple thousand dancing bananas here* With only the Y pipe its got a REAL nice grumble. Got the wires taped up and started to hide them up under the dash. My tach is working and so is my CEL light. The first start was REALLY rough, (i will post a video later today if the internet at home works) But everytime afterwards it starts fast and runs smooth. Now here is my list of things to do: -get dash trim put back together -figure out what to do with my air box that doesn't fit in the brat's engine compartment -get radiator fans mounted -build 2" lift -get the bigger tires (thinking 205/75R15 dunlop radial rovers AT) -6 lug conversion -extend 4wd linkage to fit the brat's 4wd selector -wire up the plug on the trans for the 4wd lo light and reverse lights. so i got plenty left to do, but it starts and runs. It can move forward, and back. couldn't get it put together enough to make a decent drive last night, so that is the plan for today. cruise the neighborhood without an exhaust

So I have done everything electrical I can to make it start. Well everything except double check that my fuel pump is working... pulled it last night and it will pull fuel into it as much as it can, but nothing comes out. My buddy is going to try and get me one from the junkyard today hopefully. other than that i should be set. my ecu has proper voltages throughout it and I am getting spark. if he finds me a pump today then it should be running tonight! Then I just need to figure out how to hook up my CEL properly, and my charge indicator. I need to read through GD's spfi write up again.

I am a freaking genius.... my fuel pump is bad. After checking spark and pinouts and wire routing all afternoon, listening to the car turn over wanting to start I finally checked for fuel and was getting NOTHING. My buddy is going to the junkyard while I am at work to try and snag me another fuel pump (hopefully it works). Other than that I was getting perfect readings everywhere across the ECU. that means with the fuel pump it should start! then its just trying to find where a few bloody guage wires go (i can't understand the back of my instrument cluster to save my life), and then I can put stuff together! Be prepared for many dancing bananas if this works. I would ad some pictures but my internet is down and my thumbs are hurting from typing this on my palm centro

GAR, its finally got power. but still not starting. gonna test for spark after family leaves. I feel a lot closer now than before. Thanks much daniel.

Still not getting power at the ignition coil. Still trying to figure out why my clock and e brake light stay on AFTER my key is out of the ignition. Also re-reading through the FSM wiring diagrams trying to see if there is a random wire I missed somewhere. I really would like to have this thing running today. Wife starts school again tomorrow which means I either get it in condition good enough to drive the little ways to work, or bike. Getting to work is fast and easy, all downhill coming home is... less than exciting. I am pretty stoked to hear the EJ22 roar with only a Y pipe on

Ok I spliced a line from the green wire to the black wire, I put it in the fuse box under rear defroster since I don't have one (It's on the black wire from the column, I checked). That effectively does the same thing as you did. I am just hesitant to remove the diode and etc so the line runs only from the relay to ignition. But with the green wire hooked up to ignition as well as its other places now, I can hear the fuel pump turn on as well as the main relay click. Still no ignition and my dash clock, and brake light stay on even after the key is removed. Pulling out the main relay fixes that.... Man i sure do love wiring...

Ok so I redid the wiring like you have it im just trying to figure out the green wire still. I have it wired into the ignition (put it with the rear defogger since I don't have one) Im just curious about it because on the FSM page it shows the green wire leave the ecu, split, Wire A goes to the diode then off to the alternator, Wire B goes through the SMJ, and to the ignition relay. Should I just splice a wire into the green and hook it up to a switched spot on my fuse box?

Thanks much! I will go try this out right now and see what comes up. Hopefully its just an issue of misplaced wire somewhere. Although I don't know how that would be making my fuel injector wires at the ECU have no power...Chances are pretty good I am thinking too much. I will update shortly.

http://picasaweb.google.com/glennwilson87/Brat#5367798128918027554] You can zoom in on the picture to actually see stuff here.

those two relays were behind my brats fuse panel hence why they look odd. My legacy relays are green and brown. They might have gotten hot having the car in "on" for a while while I played alien, probing around little places with my test light and multimeter seeing what happened. I will check the fuel pump tomorrow (been a long disappointing day, time for a movie with the wife) My current thoughts are these. My main relay works when hooked up straight to the battery, I can hear it click as it connects the two output posts (fuel injectors,ecu power, O2 sensor, according to my diagram) but when its hooked to the harness, and turned to "on" it doesn't shut. I did have the wire for the 'backup power" on the ecu but ti was run through a 30a fuse rather than the recommended 10a SO! pretending at the moment my ECU isn't fried here is the wiring diagram I have been using. Colored in for ease. The light green wire coming from the ECU to the main/ignition relay is what gives it power to turn on correct? If so then my ECU isn't sending power to that because the relay does not open. I have checked the wiring for it and it is properly done and grounded. I am certainly thinking it was bad of me to run the constant power through a 30a fuse but that might just be a days worth of frustration coming through. The other reason why I say the ECU isn't running power through the light green wire, is that ignition coil isn't getting any power through the diode (which I have checked multiple times and its good). So yeah, thats where I am at. sorry the pic is small

I'm not getting power to my ignition pack even though I have chased wires over and over and over. Also not getting any power to my injectors from the ECU. I have power to the ECU but for some reason nothing to the injectors. any suggestions?

Sooo... I went biking all day instead of working on the car. FYI it was AWESOME!!! Anywho,I found out this morning that I am not getting spark and i am not getting power to the ignitor. Also my spark plugs were crap so I get some generic ones to go for now. Another thing I found out, these things. What are these relays for and why are they getting hot when the ignition is in "on" ? More pictures and questions to come I am sure. It supposed to rain tomorrow so plenty of time to work.

It turns over but won't start! What are a few of the first things to check about this issue? I do believe everything is wired up. Got to head out for the night but will try again in the early morning. TOMORROW... IT RUNS!!!! Maybe tonight depending on my motivation.

Stellar, Thanks for the info. I wish I didn't have to wait another 5 hours to get off work and head home to get this wiring finished. Tomorrows project is to get the wiring finished, and then get the hubs done. pictures will be included in the hub conversion.

1985 Brat. PO had a dash mat which I am sure helped a lot.

I really should have started on this right after work instead of playing on the internet. Here is my current list of wires to be figured out. Starter Switch clip B56 pin 10. Neutral Switch clip B58 pin 10. Read Memory Connector clip B56 pin 12. And finally back up power supply B48 pin 15. That is all I need before i try to start it. for some reason I have an intense fear of somehow burning up my ECU.

That looks fun, bring that by sometime and we can come up with some orem ghetto style fix!

So I am down to just a few wires. 1 being the starter switch wire. Am i just dumb and this get hooked up onto the starter? It is on B56 pin 10. What do i do with that little wire? And still my conundrum of the alternator wires.

I haven't been able to find anything about what tires/wheels people are running with their lifts or no lift at all. Thus being the case, I want to know. What tires/wheels are people running with how much lift? I'm currently stock with some toyota 4runner 15x7 wheels sitting in the wings till the next paycheck comes in. Thinking of running General Grabber AT2's in a 205/75R15. What do you all got?

Up in bellingham? If he's doing northshore riding then its likely his bike isn't the most pedal friendly. My old bike (specialized big hit setup for downhill) weighed in at 45lbs and couldn't pedal up stuff worth a darn.

I have a little draw up in my email from one eye on how to do strut spacer lifts (body lift?) for just 2 inches. I was also under the impression that if you just push the struts down you don't have to adjust steering what with the front x member not moving at all. Granted it is best to do an overall lift of spacing the x member and strut so as to not wear on CV axles. I myself am planning a 2" lift for my brat in the next week or so.

Let me get this worded different. Fill a void in the quarter panels with the foam, (like expanding foam you use on houses and buy at home depot?) then sand it down to match curves or whatever when it dries, and then bondo over that? meh, sounds good to me but might wait for some of those with higher knowledge to pipe in.