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Everything posted by -tombba-

  1. My leone turbo stw took around 9 seconds from 0 to 100 km/h (0-62mph) when stock. After some minor mods it took around 6,5 seconds. Even my NA EA82 sedan took around 12 seconds from 0 to 100km/h. If i remember correctly my -88 coupe (EA82 body) leone with EA71 and FWD takes around 16 seconds to do the same.
  2. Well there's not a lot of snow in here this winter so no there's not a lot of plowing to do in that video. But since the northern america seems to have our winter this year haven't got a lot to do There's usually around 0,5-1,0 meter of snow this time around.
  3. Here's the snow plow leone in action (after the bike part):
  4. Thanks for the info. I feel better now thmybuild is at I know it won't be a total waste of money that eristic set. I'm going to use OEM or Fel Pro permatorque headgaskets. There is always a chance I'll be using a custom made copper oens with fire rings in them if I get rich enough before the spring comes. But since my build is budget build with a long time period I think I might even try the eristic ones with my second engine first. I've used payen graphite head gaskets once and they did not last long even that the block and heads was redurfaced. Changed OEM ones in and lasted as long as the car was with me.
  5. I'm sure I saw eristic gasket set somewhere in the pictures. Any thoughst of it's quality ? I ordered one for my rebuild altought I'm not using the headgaskets from it.
  6. I've never had any issues with cold interior air at winter even that it has been really cold I mean really cold in here in the winter times. Sometimes temperatures drop down to -35 Celsius (around -30 Fahrenheit) and still the car is very warm when it reaches the normal temperature. So +1 for the stuck open thermostat.
  7. The thing is that my heads have M10x1.00 studs in them. I didn't say that it's possible someone has filled them and redrilled them into that size. The standard M10 bolt used in here has 1.50 pitch so the M10x.1.25 bolt is already harder to find here.
  8. Well mine was M10x1.0 as I just checked it. I don't know why it is different size but all of my heads have that size. It's the finer thread that was hard to find here since the M10x1.25 is the sually used one.
  9. I remember that the thread size in EA82 was M10x1.00 I'm pretty sure I used that size when changing the original studs to new one. I remember having a problem finding a proper size from a local shops so I bought a bunch of good quality bolts that I just cutted the head of and sed them as a stud instead. BUT don't go rushing to buy this size yet and istead make sure wich size you got there first. What comes to using studs versus bolts is that the stud can be usually tightened more than normal bolt and you don't have to worry so much about the head threads when tightening as you would with normal bolts.
  10. Nice EA82T setup ou got there mate ! Just curious if you could share the megasquirt files and version of the megasquirt ? I'm going to install one to my engine next spring (hopefully) ad would appreciate any base maps to get started with. I do have pretty similar setup than you so it would hopefuly get me started and away to the proper tune up and save some time not configuring it all up from scratch. Since we have the european model engines (I assume you have it too in netherland) the megsquirt tune up files would be much closer than the USA versions available.
  11. EDIT: what engine you have in it ? Thought it sounds similar to my slipping speedo cable in EA82, but since it's brat and usually has different engine I edited the first post out.
  12. Yep I will be careful with the welding. I'll prpbably take the carpets off when doing it. Since I will be replacing the front seats anyway it won't be much of a trouble. That pan sounds good and is the way I was going to do it. It's also the easies way to get them alighned correctly at the same time. We have a lot of coupes around here but they are usually with the EA71 or EA82 non turbo engines. I would love to get the bodykit for it but it's so rare around here that it seems unlikely to find one for it. I've got the front lip for it so that's coverede but no other parts seem to be available here.
  13. I've got the mustache bar mounting brackets sorted since I took them off with the mustache bar from my parts car. I already cutted the original driveshaft mounting brackets off from the body too so I will be welding them to their place when I get to sort it out. They were basicly just metal brackets welded to the body. I've got basicly everything covered but the time to do the swap. The winter will probably go just by gathering some needes parts like gaskets etc and cleaning the already available parts.
  14. Theres also a big difference if it's turbo or non turbo car even if the exhaust is virtually the same otherwise. I've done a 2,5" exhaust both to my non turbo and turbo car and there was a huge difference between them (to clear up both had self made exhaust manifolds too so no factory y-pipe). The non turbo car always sounds a bit rattly but the turbo car with better exhaust manifold and 2,5" pipe from turbo to the back had nice low tone sound. Ofcourse it will never sound like a EJ series engine but million times better than the stock exhaust. I had two mufflers in both of the cars, one in the center and one in the back. Center one was 5" round muffler with a 16" lenght. It had a straight pipe trough altouhght it had about 5-6" long empty chamber in the middle so more like resonator style muffler. The back one was just 2,5" straight stainles muffler with a huge outlet. That combo sounds great to me. You need the resonator style muffler to the center if you want to get rid of that rattly noise of EA82.
  15. It's been a while since I've even done aything to this car but some updates been done in the summer. The ols rear subframe was like this on both sides. Someone had already tried to fi it by welding it: So in goes the new improved one with some mods including 3mm thick square pipe inside the ends and some supports to the inside of the brackets: It got a wirewheel cleaning and some paint+stoneguard onto it: And it sits straight again: As can be seen from the last image the rear arches has been welded too. I only cutted the rusty part away and welded the inner arch to the outer arch and its still waiting for the repair parts to be fitted. But it's now driveable. I also did a lot of rut repairs on the rear end and some small places around the car. It got a new front fenders from the donor car and that's about it. Haven't have a lot of time to do anything to this but maybe it will be ready some year Oh and it will be painted after the rust proofing has been done.
  16. It lights up when the intake manifold pressure goes over the standard athmosphere pressure and the turbocharger starts making some boost.
  17. I think chrysler turquoise is pretty close to the color of those valve covers:
  18. Well first check your fuses and if they are fine check that the relays are working. Sounds like something in the electrical side is getting heated too much and cuts off due to it. But good place to start is the fuses and relays.
  19. There'sone that has the darker greenish valve covers. Iv'e seen that darker color in them couple of times. In EA71 I have the light blue ones in right now and that seems to be pretty normal color for them around here.
  20. ^^ Would it be in km/h since hes from canada ?
  21. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. This usually happens to me when using my fm transmitter and the 3,5mm plug isn't sitting correctly in my player. Music sounds normal but any vocals or voices are sounding like coming from a 100m away from tunnel I've also had some problems with new never used 3.5mm connectors that does not fit into some devices. It's kind of same effect like the 3,5mm connector isn't perfectly in (like 1mm or so loose from the jack). But the first thing to do is to check your connections and go on from there.
  22. These are no images but one outrageous subaru xt from finland: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRIjUfdQIJY Two tacho videos from same standing mile drive but from yesterday: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3H56zWGNOg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdN1_0jF-jM It has an subaru EG33 engine in it and dynoed 788hp ja 950Nm/5480 r/min @ 1,35bar Not my car and I've never seen it myself but just sharing it from youtube. BTW it's register plate VAK-10 (vakio) translates to "stock" in english edit: Don't know why the last two videos don't work here but copy and paste and they should work.
  23. If it doesn't do its job correctly (that is keeping the cooling system pressure at wanted level and ofcourse without leaking) then you should replace it. Otherwise don't bother. I only replace it when it doesn't work or if I want to do so to make sure it does not fail I change it like once in a 100.000 miles or so. If the cap fails it won't keep the cooling sytem presure up and you may loose some coolant but it's not the kind of fault that puts you off the road right away if it starts leaking.
  24. I will take a photo of the differences between 2wd and 4wd struts when I'll do the swap. I believe I have original 2wd struts in my 3 door coupe and original 4wd struts in my stationwagon. So Maybe I'll post some pictures later of them.
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