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Everything posted by -tombba-

  1. If I remembe correctly turbo/mpfi ea82 heads have a smaller exhaust port diameter compared to carburetor/SPFI heads. That's a one reason for two different size exhaust port gaskets.
  2. You could use a multimeter to see wich wire in the plug geta power when pressing the brake pedal? There is more than one variant of the tail light wiring ao testin it with multimeter is the best option for finding right wire.
  3. Mine has 975mm long belts in there ( lowest picture of pictures numbchux linked is actually my engine). Just to let you know the lenght with the oem no ac setup.
  4. Got any pics of the instrument cluster ? I've never seen any without the temp gauge It's usually tacho, oil pressure or volt meter that is missing in these if it's analog cluster. Oh are you sure it's JDM and not European model and do you have right hand drive in it ?
  5. Those two blue gaskets are for the cast aluminum water transfer pipe (if I remember correctly) that is part of the intake manifold in mpfi engine. It bolts to the rear side of the manifold and houses ect sensor and transfers coolant between the heads.
  6. None of my ea82 engines has deep ebough groove for that kind of o-ring. Only the groove for thermostat itself.
  7. This is how it's supposed to mount on the thermostat in EJ18 engines: http://images.whisystems.com/Smartpages/partinfo_resize/STN/48457.jpg While it might work in the EA82 engine I wouldn't use it in one. It will seal the thermostat in but the EA82 thermostat housing does not have the groove for the gasket to mount safely in. But if you feel it works for you go ahead I don't judge in any way for using it that way.
  8. EJ18 uses o-ring type thermostat gasket if I remember correctly. So that is probably the reason why it states subaru 1.8 engine in the box. Is it this gasket you have in there ?: http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=FL&PartNumber=35524&pt=Water%20Outlet%20O-Ring&lu=1994%20SUBARU%20IMPREZA&vin= And this is probably the one you should have in there: http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=FL&PartNumber=35298-1&pt=Water%20Outlet%20Gasket&lu=1993%20SUBARU%20LOYALE&vin=
  9. I use the iridium ones nowdays since those are not very expensive anymore and have much longer change interval. It's the part number BPR6EIX11 that i use and those seem to be working without problems. I've been using them for around 35 thousand km (about 20k miles) and even after that those has been worked fine. Nowdays ou can get a set of those for under 25$ so in long therm cheaper to use for me than changing plugs every 10 thousand km. But overall keep to the standard heat range and choose between differend styles after that. NGK lists four that are: standard BPR6ES-11, V-Power BPR6EY-11, G-power BPR6EGP and Iridium IX BPR6EIX11.
  10. Test mode sets fuel pump to run continuously. Normally it just runs ones when you turn ignition on and after that runs in cycles and is controlled by the ECU. It is normal that the fuel pump runs in continuous cycles when the test connector is plugged but not normal if it runs like that when the green connector isn't connected. Basicly you shold not hear the pump alot after the first key turn to ign on position. You can test it by unplugging the green connector and it should still run normally.
  11. For the turbo versions it's not overkill at all. I found out that it's pretty hard to find even the standard one row replacement radiators here in europe nowdays. I did found one model that fits to my leone and was actually pretty cheap too (under 80€ / 90$ shipped). The thing I noticed that there seems to be a ton of different radiator models available for the leone series (3 gen). Even the one row versions have different sized cores in them. The one that I did found has core size of 645x322x16mm but there was two other common sizes to be found for leone series and those were 590x322x16mm and 668x322x16mm. The biggest is listed for turbo and the smaller one for NA EA82 engines. Funnily the one I've got that sits between those two sizes is listed for 1.3 EA65 engine. I do know that XT has that bigger size radiator and that my carbureted EA82 had that smaller size core in it but that size between those three seems to be the one that is available.
  12. I measured quickly around 2mm offset in my oem piston (really quick measurement made with vernier). EDIT: pin is on top side on left side and on down side on right side (this lookimg from back to front of the engine)
  13. Now that I got a look of the pistons again in my block they do have that arrow pointing to front of the engine (FSM also states should be pointing to front). So probably those are offset pins in them. No mentioning from the left or right side in the pistons or FSM. Also found my notes from the block build and I've written down that piston arrow facing forward. But in the end the pistons are identical looking to the oem ones.
  14. Mm no offset pins in the itm kit or even on my original ones. Never heardnof offset pins or even thqt you should put them on specific side. There is basicly no difference on which side you put them. OR if there is some reason it it should be found from factory service manual. With new pistons it should not matter in which borenyou use them in but if the piaton is used it is very advisable to use it in the same bore where it came from.
  15. It seems I've lost the pics of them. But I have some pic of them installed that wont probably help a lot but here goes: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zb2zai1x76f3jd/2015-04-20%2017.44.59-1.jpg?dl=0 Here's a picture I found from internet: http://kakapart.qiniudn.com/smp-2013-1-5-0-001252996_566517.jpg?imageMogr2/thumbnail/247x213 But you get the point out of those. Those are the new style pistons that should be bit tougher than the older long skirt ones. Basicly the kit looked much like the oem ones. Bit rough surface on the dish but I don't see a problem with that. I did weight all of the pistons and the weight difference between all four of them was under 0.5 grams so nicely balanced too.
  16. I'll try to find my pics later today. I have them installed in my engine now but I did take some photos of thrm during my build. Pretty much looks same as the later style ea82t pistons wit lower piston skirts. But I'll get back to it when I find the pics.
  17. To clarify my post my pistons are for turbo version and are dished.should still be available trough plaves that sell itm parts. My kit is itm ry6530 std and it vame with rings, piston pins and piston pin clips.
  18. I ordered ITM piston kit from rockauto last year. There was option for std and oversized ones and probably still available from there.
  19. No need to take the block apart when taking pistons of in ea82 engine. Heads ofcourse do need to come off but piston pins can be removed from the maintenance plugs in front and rear of the block. Ofcourse when in thqt stage it is easy to take blocks apart and change the bottom end bearings at the same time. But just taking the pistons out gives a good image of the engine condition too.
  20. In EA82 there can be only 2 cylinders affected since it has one two belts. But yeah it should affect at least two cylinders if it would be timing problem. +1 for the leak test
  21. These things seems to be pretty rare (at least in here): https://www.dropbox.com/s/raxxsv11c2jp9uh/2015-07-23%2019.35.19.jpg?dl=0 It's a sandwich type oil cooler adapter that has thermostat in it to control oil flow to the oil cooler. I also have the original hoses for it and ofcourse the oil cooler itself.
  22. I think so too. Not the best looking body kit but hey what re we to judge if the owner likes it. I wouldn't put that kind of bumpers to my car. EDIT: Do't know if these have been here before but I saved these pictures some year ago for myself. Feel free to share them forward if needed. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rrev5n2r6y3xzm6/AACuz3XdeWZ6IpkZwwlKBiJIa?dl=0
  23. I found something pretty horrible from the internet thingy today. (Scroll to bottom of the page): http://www.mstuning-sound.wz.cz/cars.html
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