Fairtax4me

Cancel mechanism stuck or broken like GD said. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so before removing the airbag.

Majority of the time on the 2.2 that's a stuck or collapsed HLA. Remove the valve cover and unbolt the rocker shaft assembly from the head. The one that's stuck will be pretty obvious. Disassemble the shaft and lay out the parts in order. Clean it thoroughly and make sure the oil supply holes aren't clogged. Bleed the HLAs and reinstall.

You shouldn't try it. Rod bearings are not a novice mechanics job on these engines. Get a junkyard engine and drop it in.

They should just use water. 0-20 is too thin already IMO. We gonna start using Wd40 for motor oil now?

Stuffs great isn't it?! If just replacing the front seal I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K Otherwise if you really want to remove the pump again, Pry bar or large screwdriver behind the lower ports. Pull outward carefully and work one side, then the other side.

I see lots of rusted out parts break. You think that's scary look up pics of the rear cross members rusting out on Subarus. Control arms rusting out on Kia's, toyotas, Chevys, Dodge. Speaking of Toyotas, frame rust recall on the Tundra and Tacoma pickups in the mid 2000 range. Frames literally snapped in half from rust on some trucks that were not even ten years old at the time.

Does the same fuse blow when locking using any other doors lock switch? If no, suspect the switch on the drivers door.

Possibly a threaded nut-sert.

Biggest difference is the axles. The forester youll have to completely remove the axles because they got rid of the stub shafts in the diff. They're easy to pop out with a prybar, but there's some extra work involved in getting the ball joints apart so you can pull the axles out of the hubs.

Yep, just a thin smear. If the broken bolt is on the side with the o-ring there's little chance it will leak as long as the o-ring is new OE and properly seated. The Ultra black has a stronger resistance to engine oil, and seems to have just as strong or maybe stronger bond as ultra grey.

Permatex Ultra Black. It won't leak.

If there's heavy carbon buildup on the pistons, Next step is burned valves.

No the special tool hits the head before the plug is pushed in too deep. The outer face of the plug should be flush with the bottom of the indent.

It's not under the seat it's in the cargo area behind the seat.

The plug is driven in too far and is blocking the oil drain hole at the bottom of the journal. The only reason those plugs pop out is the oil drain hole is blocked and oil pressure builds behind the plug and forces it out. This can either be from the plug being driven in too far or from excess sealant used on the cam carrier plate seam that squeezed into the drain and blocked it. In rare cases heavy sludge formation blocks the drain.

Relay is the only way the pump gets power. Remove the relay and see if it shuts off. If it does either the relay is stuck on or the coil control circuit for the relay is grounded and keeping the relay on. Edit: read op wrong.

Could be. The hill holder mechanism is on the frame rail just below the master cylinder. Cable runs from the lever on the hill holder to the clutch release fork. Cable adjusted too tight can cause the brake to drag. The cable needs adjustment if the clutch release cable is adjusted. If your clutch release point is fine, then just loosen the hill holder cable until there is slack in the cable. Then tighten until the cable just starts to pull against the lever.

Yeah the rubber dampener section fails and lets the outer section of the pulley spin. Might be what caused the problem with the AC belt if the belt slipped off and got hung up on the idler pulley. Or vice verse, the damaged idler might have put stress on the crank pulley and caused it to fail. It's a common failure when the crank pulley gets old enough. Happens frequently enough that it's almost considered a maintenance item.

Find an old truck? Seriously, don't teach a kid to drive manual on a new car. The clutch just won't last, and it's certainly more expensive (and more headache) to replace a clutch on a newer car. Find something 10-15 years old that already has some wear and tear on it then it's less pressure on the kid and less money for you. Then if they don't like it you've got a backup/winter/knock-around.

How many miles per year do you normally put on a car? The time length of the warranty doesn't matter if you exceed the 100k mile mark the warranty coverage stops at that point anyway.

Nobody makes one because it's really pointless. Get a 2" kit and add outback struts, they'll add the other inch. You need the struts anyway if you plan to fit larger tires.

That ^^^

Static pressure measured with what? Can guage? 30 is around normal low side operating pressure. Static pressure should be ~75 psi depending on temp. Pressure switch is a dual switch, has two sets of contacts inside. One set is relay ground through the ECU, the other set tells the ECU if the system pressure is too low or too high. Some newer cars actually have a transducer so the ECU can actually read system pressure, not sure if the 08 has that or not, but if it does jumping it won't help. You can jump a dual switch but have to jump both sides correctly or the ECU won't close the ground for the relay.

ALL SUNROOFS LEAK. It's just how they work, and that IS why there's a DRAIN under the panel. There is no way to make a perfect seal around a sunroof unless you glue it shut. If it's leaking out of the drain channel and getting into the headliner, or onto the sliding cover, then it's an issue. Otherwise, it's working as it should.

Yeah sounds like you need new transfer clutch plates. Its usually a good idea to pull the transfer section off the back and pull the drum out and inspect inside the transfer clutch drum for grooves. Depending how bad it is you may need to replace the drum, usually around $500 in parts for the drum and new friction plates.