Fairtax4me

I see the cylinder you mentioned earlier now. Only a portion of it made it into the previous pics. It is odd with just that metal block at the bottom joining it to the end tank. I'd be interested to see the whole thing out of the car, but judging by the rust I see in the pics that's going to be much easier said than done.

There are two tabs on the bottom corners. FSM shows something that looks like a long screwdriver or awl being used to push the tabs from above after pulling the top of the grille slightly out.

Yes. All the computer can look for is an electrical problem. There is no way to monitor every vacuum hose in the car for breakage. Well there is, it would just be expensive as hell to put a sensor on every hose. The IAC can be stuck and the computer wouldn't know because its still electrically connected. Was the O2 code for sensor 1(front) or sensor 2(rear)?

On the older cars all you do is pop the grille off and you can see the whole thing. Not sure on 2000+ models, though I assume the grille is still pretty easy to remove. I've looked through the FSM for 02 Impreza and they don't show a drier or anything that looks even remotely like it in the AC diagram, and no mention of it in the service procedures (removal/installation instructions). The closest thing I can find in the totally unclear black and white drawings they provide is a cylinder on the right side that looks like it hangs from the top of the condenser. The pic you posted above just looks like the end-tank. The end- tank is what the core tubes are welded to. There are some that have larger diameter end tanks for whatever reason. I think it has to do with flow through the core.

I just use a wire brush and some brake cleaner if they're really cruddy. As for the drier, are you sure its built into the condenser? Not next to it or around in front of it? Car designers find creative ways to hide things under the hood. I'm curious to know in case I run into this issue in the future.

The caps normally have a rubber seal in them. If yours are gone just find a suitable sized AC o-ring to fit in the cap. Napa has JRA style service port valves for only a couple dollars each. But you do need the special tool to remove and install them which is like $10. Needle nose pliers will ruin them.

Injectors don't care what ECU they're hooked to. They all run on 12V. If they plug in and fit in the rails they'll work. I've swapped red to grey and back again in two different cars (one auto, one manual) not a bit of difference as far as I could tell.

Them's them.

Does look like they moved it in the early 2000 years. Rockauto lists a few of these: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=877828&cc=1378751 Had to look up an 03 model. Pictures of the condenser show the drier is on the side of the condenser. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3609009&cc=1378751 Before that it was bolted to the side of the strut tower. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_104/climate/air_conditioner_system/illustration_1/

It should say in the cruise control wire diagram. It will have connector number and pin location.

The fans have 2 relays per fan (low and high speed), and independent fuses. All in the underhood fuse panel. To test operation put the ECM in test mode. Plug in the green plugs under the drivers dash and turn the key ON. That will cycle both fans in low and high speed.

These expansion valves practically never fail. If his was "bad" it was probably freezing because of moisture in the system. You can replace it if you want. Me, I wouldn't bother. Too much work to get to. DO replace the drier. That's what pulls any moisture in the system out of the refrigerant before it gets to the expansion valve. Once its saturated it doesn't work anymore and there's no easy way to get the moisture out. Belts, hoses, air filters don't need to come from a dealer. But the dealer parts are much better quality than parts store cheapo belts and hoses (especially the ones you have to cut). Dealer hoses, you just put them on. Cheapo parts store hoses you have to trim one end or the other or both to make them fit, and they still don't always fit right because the mould shape is wrong.

I'm running outback struts and have plenty of room to the perch, the problem I've run into is clearance from the sidewall of the tire to the strut tube on the rear struts. Even on 205/70/15 tires I'm only about 1/4" from the strut tube. I've been looking into different offset wheels so I can run 215 or 225 tires without fear of hitting the strut tube. But I also need to clear these big ol' WRX calipers I bought. 16" wheels are about impossible to find with the right back spacing, AND the right lug pattern. I can find 15s all over the place, but I'm not sure they'll clear the brakes.

Thanks!! I'm hoping they'll work. Probably will since they're steel (thinner) and the face doesn't curl back towards the brakes like the aluminum wheels do.

What forum did you find these on? I need to know if they'll clear WRX brakes.

The one in particular that I was thinking of is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144707-dash-clock-flashing-acc-err/ Link referenced in that thread: http://www.justanswer.com/subaru/25v6h-2006-outback-wagon-recently-began-displaying.html

I remember reading something about this and there being a problem with corrosion in some connector under one of the seats. There is a control module of some sort under there that is part of the CAN network and it affects the signals on the network which causes the error code to display.

It lives!! Better than puking oil all over the floor! I replaced a radiator in a cadillac and didn't get one of the oil cooler fittings tight enough (at all). About a quart of oil ran down the driveway before I could get it shut off.

Is it the front sensor that's just hanging or the rear sensor? Rear sensor doesn't matter you can remove that entirely it won't affect the way the car runs. Front sensor it needs for fine tuning the fuel mixture or else it will just run in open loop all the time. This will cause strange power problems and possibly misfires and stalling. The other big things to cause stalling, especially when coming to a stop, are vacuum leaks or a sticky Idle control valve.

Not uncommon to see numbers that high. I had an Ej22 with 200-220 on all 4 cylinders. Nothing special about it. Just says it has good clean rings IMO. I think spec is 185-215 or somewhere around there anyway.

Still haven't bough them actually. That got moved to the bottom of the list behind Mother's Day, and my grand mothers, mothers, and girlfriends birthday in 2 weeks (all on the same day!), so I need to spend wisely until after that. I did see an o-ring kit at Advance the other day that looked like it had maybe 20 o-rings for about the same price as the kit at Napa. Ill probably end up getting the kit at Napa though since, in general, Quality trumps Quantity.

It has some refrigerant, but nowhere near enough. You should have idle system pressure of around 100-120 psi. Low side should be 30-35psi when running. High side should be around 180-200 IIRC. The bigger deal will be to find the source of the leak. It doesn't sound like the system has ever been totally empty so moisture in the system is probably not an issue. Check all of the o-rings where the lines join, and where theyre boltsd to the compressor, condenser, Drier canister, and evaporator. Also remove the grille and check the lower corners of the condenser. Get a can of leak detector dye if you can't see an obvious leak.

I bet if you pull the spark plug wire on number 2 there is moisture in the plug well. Had this happen several times on my car. Eventually I had to RTV around the top of the plug boots. I drive through lots of water though. If you find moisture blow the hole out with compressed air if you can. If not just wipe it off and let it air dry for a few hours. It help to let the engine run up to normal temperature before pulling the plug wire so the heat will help evaporate moisture away. Be sure to wipe the top lip of the boot with silicone grease to help keep water out.

Well you dodged a huge bullet if the engine still runs. That's a common failure though I haven't heard of it happening with a new tensioner. Usually its an old tensioner, or one that someone tried to re-use after a timing job. I would certainly get in touch with the seller and explain that it failed after only a few thousand miles. I've always had good luck getting parts exchanged with eBay sellers.

A little bit of wiggle is fairly normal. What did it do when it "went"? Did it lock up? Did it make noise? It's somewhat common for the hydraulic piston to fail but not on a new unit, unless it was compressed incorrectly. How far did the timing jump? I hope you're not looking at marks on the belt for refrerence. Those will only line up once out of every 200 some-odd revolutions of the engine.