Fairtax4me

U-pull junkyard. Or post in the classifieds here. Someone will have a parts transmission laying around and can ship you one.

Make sure the bell housing connectors are plugged in all the way. They can be almost there but not quite and cause this problem. Make sure all the hoses are connected to the intake tube and the valve covers. Make sure the intake tube is clamped at both ends.

Running like that I would expect there to be a check engine light on. Have you done any maintenance to the car? Plugs? Wires? Filters?

Both codes are probably because your throttle and cruise cables are adjusted incorrectly. The cable should be loose. It should be able to wiggle side to side about 1/8"-1/4" easily. You have 2 nuts on the end of the cable sheath. One lock nut which is the closest to the throttle lever. The adjusting nut is on the other side of the bracket, towards the front of the car. Loosen the lock nut, then spin the adjusting nut to adjust tension on the cable. If you spin the nut towards the lever, it pulls the cable tighter. Away from the lever will loosen the cable. Once you get it adjusted tighten the lock nut while holding the adjusting nut in place.

You need the heater ground right? B137 pin 9 B137 is the largest connector. There is an open slot in the top row. Pin 9 is the very last pin on the opposite end (still top row).

That one has a dowel pin which can get stuck pretty good. Kinda need to wiggle and twist and pull all at the same time to get it loose. The condensers like to corrode and develop leaks on the bottom corners where they're exposed to dirt/rocks being thrown at them through the lower grille. If its above that, probably just the o-ring. Don't need to remove the radiator to get the condenser out. Just have to remove the upper support and push the radiator toward the engine. Two bolts behind the grille hold the condenser. Remove those and slide it up and out between the radiator and support.

That is genius! I think I can make one of those! Well... Not as pretty as that, but something along the same lines. Funny that both web sites have the exact same description...

I use it ALL THE TIME. Even just for air filter or belts or spark plugs. Its great to have the hood up out of the way. I really wish more cars had that capability.

I've tinkered with this idea as well. I may try soon. I need to put a new toothed idler on my 95 soon because its making noise. All the other bearings are nice and smooth. The cam sprockets over here have 48 teeth so slightly more advance in timing at 7.5°. I just wonder if its too much advance since most of the low end setups I've done are v8s that usually get only 4°. I've searched for adjustable cam sprockets but they only seem to be available for DOHC heads and they're prohibitively expensive. I've also not found proof that they will actually work on SOHC cams.

Yes, it's the lower compressor bracket. The lower bolts go through that. That "small" bolt secures it to the cylinder head. Be sure to get that bolt started before tightening the other bolts.

Possibly the input seal on the trans got shredded. Easy to do with the sharp corners on the TC pump drive. Make sure you didn't just cut one of the ATF cooler lines from the trans to the radiator before pulling the engine again. No-start problem... Did you make sure the cam sprockets didnt get mixed up when you removed them to replace the cam seals? Drivers sprocket has notches on the back for the cam position sensor. No cam sensor signal = no start.

Is this a temperature related issue? Once it starts, if you let it sit over night and cool does it still shift hard the next morning?

It's probably the cable. Fish the cable out, load it up with Garage door lube, or cable oil if you can find it.

Can you tell where the lock plate was on the ring? If you can see that then you're golden, if not just turn it until it stops then turn it back about 2 teeth like lmdew said. Clean up any rough spots with sand paper and/or a file before putting the new seal in the retainer ring. As long as you didnt screw up the threads it'll be fine.

Are you sure the feed hole in the rocker isn't plugged? Having both bleed down is almost always an oil feed issue. Not hard to disassemble the rocker shaft and clean everything out. Not sure about OE vs aftermarket on these. DNJ seems to make decent parts but I haven't heard anything about the lifters specifically.

Yeah, mainshaft bearing. Not too difficult to replace if you're comfortable opening up the trans. You do need a press though, or a HUGE puller. Clutch is probably fine.

I can usually tell when the car starts moving. Happens all the time.

Is it a manual trans? Is it in gear?

Does it sound like a tire screaching or is it more like the farty kinda noise that leather seats make when you slide across them?

Oil pump in the trans is probably cracked now. That is almost a guarantee if you force the engine and trans together when the torque converter isn't seated properly. I think there is a circlip at the end of the input shaft which requires some effort to get it to pop loose. I don't remember for sure though. I've never had to reseat the torque converter on a Subaru. I always take extra measures to make sure it doesn't move. The can of worms you open by removing the TC is way more effort than bolting a wrench to the bellhousing to hold the converter in place.

Did it fix the shifter?

Nope, whole thing increases by 1". Read up on tire sizing. Tirerack has good articles and tech info about that.

That looks like a mirror for a 95-99 legacy. Either way, Outback heated mirror this is the only part that comes up:http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/91032AE29A/ fits Outback limited, cold weather, and LL Bean. Also some Baja trims. All of these would be equipped with heated mirrors which were larger.

A size larger or smaller will throw off the speedometer, though only by a few percent. Google tire size calculator and compare your stock size to the sizes you're thinking about getting to see how far off it will be. Most of these the speedometer reads about 3-4mph too fast anyway, so bumping up to a larger tire will help to correct that. Clearance is not an issue with such a small change in size. 16" wheels don't solve the tire size problem because the 16" tire will also be an inch larger diameter.

That's no good. Possible the heater 12v feed wire touched the ground wire when it got disconnected and cooked the ground circuit in the ECU. Probably want to check voltage at the pin in the ECU, and make sure there's no crud in the ECU connector. I don't think the front sensor has any other connectors between it and the ECU, so not much chance of a poor connection unless its at the sensor connector.