Fairtax4me

Actually the 2.5 has a lower CR than the 2.2 does. 2.2 is 9.7:1 2.5 is 9.5:1 I would replace the valves, since you know your engine is in otherwise good shape, hasn't been overheated, etc.

I understand the lack of time and desire to repair the engine. I'm just tryin to figure out roughly how many valves may be bent. Since the crank was 90 degrees behind its likely that all 8 intake valves are bent since the intake valves would be opening before the pistons reached TDC to start the intake stroke. Since its the intake valves it could run that way for quite some time. Exhaust valves would burn quickly and allow compression to drop too far for the engine to continue running. It's still a crapshoot though. He might get a week or he might get years. An engine can run perfectly fine on 3 cylinders if one valve burns. What determines how long it will is when 2 other valves burn, you completely lose compression in 3 cylinders and have only one still firing.

That shouldn't affect alignment, but if you want to feel more comfortable about it that should be easy to grind smooth with an angle grinder. Careful though, aluminum can deform easily if it gets too hot while grinding. RX, this particular bolt is known to be a son-of-a-beech even on cars that aren't rusty. It's about 10" long and the center section (about 4") is exposed to dirt and road grime, which quickly causes corrosion of the aluminum knuckle.

Sounds fishy to me. The only other mark on the crank is a full 90 degrees off. Did he use the TDC arrow? I wouldn't think it would start at all with the crank at 90 out. Being 90 degrees behind would almost certainly bend the exhaust valves, although I'm not sure it would be "slightly". I vote compression and or leak down test to confirm. In the absence of those tools you can do it the backyard way. Set the cams unloaded so all the valves are closed, spin the crank and listen near the exhaust ports on the heads, and near the throttle body. Should be able to tell by feel if any valves are bent. With the valves all closed there will be compression and vacuum on all 4 cylinders, which will make it quite difficult to turn by hand.

The device under the intake is the purge solenoid for the evap canister. One hose should go to the canister the other to the manifold. IIRC that hose should loop up to a port in the center of the intake manifold on top right in front of the throttle body. It sticks straight up. If that one is taken just run a T off of it.

I missed the previous thread. How many times was the engine rotated with it being out of time? Was just one camshaft out of time or both?

Oil pressure decreases as the engine warms. Spec for an EJ is only 10-12 psi at warm idle. If its below that you got problems. Knocking sounds and stalling are a bad omen.

Several frames show your long term fuel trim is maxed out. The ECU is dumping fuel in for some reason. The O2 sensor voltages are a little on the lean side in the later frames. Are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? No exhaust leaks at the manifold?

If it looks bad order a new TOB with a sleeve. I know rockauto carries them, and you can get them from some auto parts stores but its hit or miss.

Holy hell!! Is that rust!? 0.o

If you cut a couple small slots in the end of the sleeve you can roll the end back like a sardine can and pull the sleeve off. Chances are it didn't really need it.

How do you figure that just one valve is slightly bent? Sure the lash is correct and its timed properly?

If I remember correctly the TCC solenoid is easily replaceable on these. But it's possible there's just a loose or damaged wire.

Sensor, ECU configuration and speedometer calibration are all the same. The only difference is the number of teeth on the drive gears. It's different depending on final drive ratio and tire size of the vehicle the transmission is going in. An Outback with 4.11 FDR will have a different number of teeth on the speedometer drive gears than a Legacy L with the 3.90 FDR. I know there is a difference between those two because I ran outback size tires on my L with the 3.90 FDR. The speedometer was reading approximately 5 mph too high at highway speed. I did a trans swap to an outback trans with 4.11 FDR, same size tires, now the speedometer is 3mph slow, which is the same way it was with the stock L size tires and 3.90 FDR.

The sensor itself is the same but the number of teeth on the sensor driven gear in the trans is different.

You'll notice about a 300 rpm decrease in 5th gear at 70mph. 1st you will notice an increase in off the line torque, 2nd you might notice a bit of change but not much. Speed sensor gearing is dependent on final drive gearing (4.11), which is the same on both, so your speedometer will read the same.

I've seen a powered amp & sub box that fits inside the spare tire. I don't remember who makes it but I think you can get it from Crutchfeild. Other than that, it's not hard to build a box to fit a 10" sub off on the side behind the rear strut tower.

Is there a driveability concern that prompted you to take the car to the dealer? Or did you just take it in for a regular service visit? This is a typical upsell service that many dealers and now some independent shops try to push on their customers. Sometimes it actually helps with driveability issues (such as rough idle or poor fuel economy), but at 15k miles, its a compete waste of money. There's not enough buildup at that mileage to make a difference in power or fuel economy. You can do preventative fuel system maintenance yourself for the $5 cost of a bottle of Lucas fuel system cleaner from the local parts store. One bottle in the fuel tank every 4-6 months will keep the injectors clean and help remove any varnish in the injectors or other parts of the system.

Did you spray the pivot pin for the pedal? The pin usually slides out if you remove a cotter pin on one side, there should be a couple of plastic bushings that fit around the pin that can wear out and are replaceable. If nothing else you can wipe some lithium grease on the pin and put it back in. That should cure it temporarily.

I've seen that peice before. I dunno exactly what it is but it comes from somewhere around the mainshaft bearing. I had one chewed up like a saw, had teeth marks all in it. The mainshaft bearing was shot to hell, trans wouldn't stay in 3rd on its own, wouldnt go into 4th and 5th at all. Gonna guess that one has some definite wear on the MSB.

I don't see how throttle by wire would be a bad thing in this. Much better than a 10 foot long custom accelerator pedal. The signal wiring from the pedal to the ECU may be shielded. I'd have to dig up a service manual to find out. That wouldn't stop me from just extending the wires to the pedal assembly though. Obviously there are quite a few more that will need to be lengthened if you plan to use the whole interior/dash anyway, what difference do a few extra wires to the pedal box make?

If you have a complete donor car you will have everything needed to make the engine from that vehicle work. The AVCS engines did make more power. Starting in 05, the 3.0R models (outback and sedan) made 250hp and 219ftlbs. Anything you need to make the AVCS work will already be in the car. You're swapping everything from the donor car, everything will work as it did originally. The only tricky part will be keeping the evap system happy, but that should be doable by swapping the whole evap system onto your campers fuel tank. Subaru is nothing like GM. Subaru likes to keep things simple. Same engine is in the Outback as is in the Tribeca. There is a difference in transmission gear ratios, the Tribeca has a shorter first gear, but it is mostly so the Tribeca can run on the larger 18" wheels. Fuel economy is kind of a moot point. A 2.5 would have to run so hard to pull a vehicle that size the fuel mileage would suffer tremendously. And not that you're going to be driving particularly fast with that rig, but you would probably need the 4.44 final drive out of a Forester just so the 2.5 could move it at all, and that would mean running a ridiculously high rpm on the highway. I just don't see the 2.5 having enough, if any, advantage in fuel economy to make it a worthwhile candidate. There is a turbo 2.5, but that's going to be a major maintenance liability, and will have to run on premium fuel. The 3.0 with AVCS can be run on regular.

Now were getting somewhere! With weight being the major factor, a 2.2 would have the bottom end torque to move a vehicle that size if matched with a good low final drive ratio. But, I think it would struggle on the top end. I would certainly go with one of the H-6 engines. The early 3.0 made 212 hp and 210 ftlbs at 4400. 174ftlbs at 2100. You can find these in 2001-2009 model year legacy outback wagon and legacy outback sedan, and 2006-2007 model year B9 Tribeca. The 3.0 was used to haul around the Tribecas 4200lb curb weight. Later versions of the h-6 were bumped up to about 250 hp, with similar gains in torque. The 3.6 was available starting in 2008 in the Tribeca, but not until 2010 in the Outback. Obviously these are going to be harder to find and cost quite a bit more. All the H6 transmissions were automatic as far as I know so any donor car with that engine will have the trans you want. As far as size is concerned, the H-6 is not much larger than the 2.5. Overall height and width are nearly the same, and its only about 1" longer (crank pulley to bellhousing) than the 4cyl engines. The 3.0 also uses a timing chain which is much more reliable than the belt system used on the 4 cylinder engines, and no need to be serviced.

Hardly any difference between grey and red injectors. The 1507 code may be present because the ECU was not allowed to set the idle speed during the initial startup. I would reset the ECU (unhook the battery for ten minutes), allow it to learn idle fuel/air mapping (don't use the throttle to keep it running, if it stalls just restart it), and see what comes back. If the misfiring continues pull the plugs and check them for signs of fouling.

I don't understand, does the light work or not? Like Gloyale said it should come on when the key is turned to ON or the engine is started. Once the engine is running it should go out after a few seconds. If the light does not turn on for the bulb test it is probably burned out. If there is a stored code post the actual code please.