Fairtax4me

Welcome to the USMB! I don't know how the new account activation works since the forum software upgrade, but hopefully you'll be able to post soon. If its a US market car, look on the left side lower dash panel. There is a small flip down door with an OBD2 plug behind it. Any OBD 2 scanner will plug in and work with it. You can use the Elm327 USB or Bluetooth version, either should work just fine. There are some functions you can access through the Subaru SSM plug with the proper software, ABS and TCU diagnostics, but most ECU diagnostic can be done through the ODB 2 plug. Do some searching on google, there are several websites with good documentation of how to build adapters for use with Subaru SSM.

Only 56 miles?! I wish I had a place that close! The one u-pull yard closer than that charges an arm and a leg and only gives store credit if you return anything. And their cars are all sitting too close together(most of them you can't get the doors open to get into), in the mud, and full of bees nests and snakes. The one I normally go to is 70 miles, the other is 105. Worth it for the better prices. All the cars are on stands off the ground, and the whole yard is gravel. No weeds, so no varmints to deal with.

The module will flash a code 11 as a start code before flashing any stored codes. I've checked abs codes before and the module doesn't pause for long between codes. Are you sure you're not getting a code 11, and a code 26? I can't find a code 46 listed anywhere either, but I only have info for US market vehicles. I do see 26, 36, and 56. But no 46.

I don't see why it would hurt to just leave it open. There's really nothing to damage, unless its going into the bearing housing. The tone ring is on the axle cup correct?

The grey stuff is Fujibond(? I think). Some renamed variant of Threebond sealant, which is an excellent sealer used by most Asian auto makers and some American and European as well. Permatex Ultra grey is comparable, though not quite as good. It will work, and is cheap, but it takes a while to run a bead of sealer all the way around a cover that large. RTV will begin to dry before you get done, and you risk having little prices of the squeeze-out fall off and clog oil passages. Anaerobic is great for this kind of thing because it doesn't dry at all until you put the peices together and tighten the bolts. Gives you all the time you need to make sure you have an even smear of sealer all the way around.

Opposedforces.com says the forester and Impreza cables are interchangeable. I would pull the cable out of the 90 and compare it to the forester cable. It can't be too different. Maybe one is a bit longer, but as long as the ends are the same I would think it should work. They aren't difficult to remove. Unhook the cable end on the throttle body and remove the cable from the anchor. Unhook the canle inside by pulling the cable and sliding it out of hook on the pedal. The inner anchor is either a clip or a nut similar to the engine side anchor, loosen and remove it then use a screwdriver to pop the grommet out of the firewall then slide the cable out through the engine bay.

Can't you take it back? I think they're $80 a peice with cams at the place I got to, plus taxes and the environmental charge BS. But they take anything back no questions asked. I'd be pretty pissed to pay for a set of heads and find a bunch of stuff missing.

The caps are machined on the head. Using another cap is a crap shoot because the machined bore may be off center of bore on your head. You might need to try several caps to find one that the center lines up correctly. Oh yeah, the bad that would come from it... The cap being off center would leave insufficient clearance for oil on one side, and excessive clearance on the other side, so basically there would be a step in the bearing bore. That would dig into the cam as it is spinning, assuming there is enough clearance for it to spin at all. The excessive clearance would also bleed out oil pressure meaning the other side of the cam bearings would starve for oil, overheat, and seize.

Use Anaerobic sealant on the timing chain cover. All you should need is a vavle cover gasket set, a front crankshaft seal, and a few o rings for the chain cover if there are any. The o rings and front seal are best to get from a dealer, and should be in stock and fairly cheap. You can use Felpro valve cover gaskets. The blue ones wok really well and their kits usually include everything you need. I would also reseal the separator plate since it is accessible, and replace the access cover o ring on the back of the block. (Under the diamond) The filler tube o-rings do dry out and leak with age, you can pick up one of those from the dealer as well.

Is the core actually broken or are the fins just chewed up? Those things are pretty tough despite how flimsy the fins are. I caught a good sized branch with mine through the lower bumper grille and it mangled the fins and the core all up but it still doesn't leak. AC has been working just fine so far this summer. It kinda looks like that upper AC hose might have some damage from the fire? Throttle cables are probably trashed. Even if it didnt melt through it still got the inside of the cable very hot, which will result in rust /corrosion and binding. Don't need a throttle cable getting jammed at WOT and have the car take off on you.

Not from a 90 model car. Not without some hacking and splicing anyway. Heartless, yes it's easy to catch a car on fire while doing a compression check, by simply failing to unplug the fuel injectors and ignition coil. Raw fuel + 40,000 volt spark = WOOSH!!

Yes, make sure its cold first. I've pulled plugs on plenty of warm engines and my 2.2 is the only one I've ever been afraid was going to pull the threads out with the plug, even with antiseize on them. I certainly won't be doing it again. I agree with Heartless, if the plug wires are so brittle you're afraid to touch them, they should be replaced with the plugs.

Have you checked or changed the fluid in the rear differential recently? Might check to see if its full of glitter. Torque bind returning like that suggests the transfer drum has grooves worn into it from the clutch plates.

You just need a reseal, not a rebuild. There are quite a few board members in or near Seattle. Rename your thread "Need Mechanic in Seattle!" Someone is bound to be able to help.

Like John said, new (used) crank pulley, key and bolt. Install line up and crank the bolt down to about 140 ftlbs. This is an all too common problem on these engines when someone doesn't tighten the crank bolt enough after a timing belt job, or other repair which involves removing the crank pulley. Easily fixable and no engine replacement necessary.

Ease of spark plug removal depends on if you have a 2.5 or 2.2. The 2.2 is the easier one by a long shot. If the plugs really gove you trouble grab your favorite penetrating oil, just spray it into the plug well and let it soak in.

What brand of thermostat did you use? If it wasnt Subaru that's probably the problem.

It can be, just use a ratchet strap or come-a-long to hold the front of the trans up. You'll still need to unhook shift linkage, exhaust hanger, rear driveshaft. You'll be almost to the point of removing the transmission anyway.

Seems odd they would be different. Maybe one is an aftermarket replacement?

Doubtful it's the cable. I would guess the release lever (fork) is cracked and is not pushing the release lever far enough to release the pressure plate. Or there is damage to the pressure plate or clutch disc. Either way, engine and trans have to be separated to see what the problem is.

You can get the brake lines from a 95 non-abs Legacy. I think all of the wagons had ABS by then so you would likely only find that on a sedan. Or you could buy a proportioning valve and run new lines yourself. The hill holder will not work on models with a hydraulic clutch. The hill holder is actuated by a cable that attaches to the release lever. The hydraulic clutch release lever doesn't have the hole for the hill holder cable, and is not easily modified to work.

Sweet! Will be cool to see some new updates on the TW!

Update! The current status of my lifted Soob : Dirty! Its now running 4.11 gears and doing well except for the rickety exhaust pipes. The muffler finally broke at the seam for the inlet pipe, so it makes some rattly noises but its surprisingly quiet otherwise.

Most of the time a vibration at speed is because the tires are out of balance. Low idle can be due to several reasons. Usually it's a vacuum leak. Check the small vacuum hoses that run around on the intake manifold for cracks and splits.

Cars101 doesn't have that info. Like Dave says, a manual 96-99 outback will be 4.11, a manual 95-99 GT also has 4.11.