Fairtax4me

I don't recall there being a switch on the clutch pedal for the ECU. There should be one for the cruise control. The ECU uses a neutral switch on the side of the trans to tell when its in gear.

Looks like fluid contamination to me. Something dripping onto the belt between the cover seams. Is the Power Steering pump wet? How about the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the block, any evidence of coolant leaking there?

Head bolts can be re-used, although I'm not sure how much I would trust them after being over-torqued like that. Are you going to put new head gaskets on it or are you going to take a gamble and see if/how long the over torqued gaskets last?

Same thoughts here. I don't know why Subaru did away with the option to select "gears" on the 2014 non-turbo CVT. Especially on the Forester which is the more off-road oriented model anyway. That feature has been pretty much standard since 2010 when the CVT became available in the new Outback. My best guess is that it has something to do with fuel economy or emissions regulations, since the idea of the CVT was to increase fuel economy in the first place. Perhaps the new model isn't capable of meeting the stringent new mileage standards when driven in "manual" mode.

L = Low Basically it holds the CVT in a low ratio similar to placing a regular transmission in 2nd. In L it will not vary the ratio, so engine speed will increase and decrease similar to a regular automatic. The idea is to allow some engine braking control for snow driving and limited torque transfer to the wheels for low traction areas.

Did you happen to notice which way it was installed? Spring up or spring down? I've heard of people drilling holes in them to allow air and coolant to pass to prevent airlock, but that's usually one hole, not 5.

Block and heads aren't gen remotely close. They're both horizontally opposed 4 cylinder gasoline engines, but that's where the similarities end. I (and im sure several others) envy you. I'd love to get my hands on the parts to do an FB swap.

It's very tricky to hold the seatbelt mechanism in the proper orientation to prevent the latch from engaging. It will work just fine once installed in the car.

The bolts would prbably break, or strip the threads out of the block. The final 90 degree torque step reaches approximately 90 ft lbs. The gasket would certainly crush, it would probably warp the head if the bolts don't break.

Yes you can get them at the shack. Somewhere on this board is the part number. I have the number at home somewhere. If I remember Ill post it when I get back later.

Third post.

What exactly broke? The only place I know that sells an entire assembly with springs is rockauto, and it would take a few days to get them. Look for a junkyard in your area and grab one. If you order new you really should replace both sides since one new strut/spring assembly will cause uneven ride height and unstable handling.

The 4EAT is a stout transmission and will last a long time as long as you change the fluid and keep on top of tirepressure and rotation schedule. If you need more OOmph look into a set of reground cams from Delta Camshaft. The torque cam makes a big difference in the lower RPM range, especially with the automagic.

I'm pretty sure he has advertised those engines for sale in the vendor or products forum here.

You can get your very own EE20 with complete harness to run it for around $7500.

Double post...

The short answer? None. The long answer... it can be done with A LOT of work and time spent swapping the entire engine, transmission and engine and trans control units and associated wire harnesses from a 2006 or newer vehicle. If you need more gears its much easier to swap in a 5 speed manual. And at that its even easier to just buy a car with a manual trans.

Some people have run into idle and low end power problems using the reground torque profile cams with the Frankenmotor. The concensus is that you need an ECU tune or some other form of engine management to make the combination work. I'm not sure about the high end profile, there might be better results without a tune. In general people who build a Frankenmotor are very happy with the stock cam, which needs no tuning to make the engine run well.

Spark by the coil is probably the cause. Sounds like its time for some new wires. Subaru OEM or NGK brand are the only ones people here recommend.

Oh god, a cork gasket?!? That's a guaranteed leak. The only time I use those is never. Take it off, clean it, and seal it with Ultra grey. Hopefully that cork didnt warp the pan flange when you tightened the bolts.

It will be phase 1 heads on a 99 Legacy. Forester and Impreza got phase2 engines in 99. Legacy didnt make the switch until 2000 when they changed body style. Too many differences in phase1 and phase2 to make it work, so that engine has to be phase1 or someone did a truck-ton of work. You need a manifold from a 2.2 w/EGR which will be easiest to find on a car with an automatic.

Don't drive the car without a radiator cap, it'll just spill coolant all around the block. Top off the radiator then let it idle in the driveway until it reaches operating temp with the cap off. If coolant starts to push up out of the radiator put the cap on it and let it warm to operating temp. Fill the overflow to the MAX line cap the radiator then turn the engine off and let it cool. Repeat until the level in the overflow bottle stays the same after cooling. This method can take quite some time, which is why I recommend loosening the upper radiator hose and filling the engine up first.

Ah I see what you need. Dunno what it's called but it will either be something you find in a junkyard car, or you'll have to order one through a dealer. Probably pretty cheap new, but it would almost certainly have to be ordered, which would mean waiting a few days for it to come in.

Never re-use head gaskets. They will not seal correctly. Take the oil pan gasket back, it is not needed and will cause leaks. The oil pan is sealed with RTV from the factory. A spread coating of Ultra Grey RTV is all that is needed to seal the pan.

There's still air in the system. That's what causes the overflow to suck dry. The system is not full and it is pulling vacuum as it cools. This pulls in the extra coolant in the overflow tank and will suck the upper radiator hose flat. An empty system holds 1.6 gallons of coolant. If you didn't pour in at least 1.5 the system is nowhere near full yet. When filling the system you need to fill the engine through the upper radiator hose Before filling the radiator, otherwise it will take several cycles of running to temp, and cooling and refilling to get the system completely full.