Fairtax4me

My best guess would be a loose ECU ground on the intake manifold, or poor connection at the three main ECU harness connectors on the bellhousing. ECU ground is 4 black wires that come together to one eyelet and bolted either to the top of the manifold by the ignition coil or off on the drivers side rear of the manifold down low near the number 4 fuel injector.

It's a spring spacer from the rocker shaft assembly. There are 4 on each side and they for some reason like to break. They help keep the rockers in position on the rocker shaft. Pull the valve covers and check each side to see which one is missing a spacer.

Ignition timing advance can be as high as 44° or slightly higher depending on several conditions.

This is a manual transmission car, correct? So the shifter in the car you can literally pull up on it with your hand and the whole thing picks up 2-3"? Is that right? This is probably due to a combination of things, you'll want to crawl under the car and inspect. Lift the front and support it on jack stands. If you don't have stands it would be smart to invest in a set. They're fairly cheap at parts stores and are a necessity if you plan to do any kind of work which requires jacking up the car to get under it. Crawl under behind the front wheels and you'll see the back end of the transmission. On the left side (drivers) you'll see the shift linkage and a rod just below it that attaches to the back of the trans with a large round bushing. This is the "Stay" rod and its what holds the shift lever in position relative to the transmission. At the back of the stay rod is another bushing that holds the shifter lever up and centered in position relative to the opening in the floor for the shifter to pass through. To see the rear bushing you'll have to remove the large heat shield that attaches to the floor pan. There are either 6 or 8 (cant recall exactly) 12mm bolts that hold it on, you'll want to use PB blaster or some other penetrating oil to help crack them loose. Remove the bolts and you can slide the heat shield off to the side. I suspect the front (round) stay bushing has deteriorated and allowed the stay rod to fall out of the rear stay bushing. Those are fairly easy to replace and don't cost too much for dealer replacements. There are aftermarket polyurethane replacements available which cost a bit more but may improve the feel of the shifter. New bushings alone will be an improvement over worn out ones though. Parts you can get from a local dealer or order through one of the online dealers and save some $$. For Aftermarket stay bushings check out Kartboy.com. Also for pics of all this stuff check out Scoobymods.com and search for shifter bushing replacement, or Kartboy. There are lots of threads there wih pics of the linkage and the bushings in question. They usually deal with Imprezas but the linkages are nearly the same and use the same bushings.

Wire from the alternator leads to the fuse box where the connection is made to another cable that leads to the battery. So when the engine stalls it has to be jumped? Alternator has been replaced. Have you cleaned the terminals on the battery?

No power at the pump, check the relay.

Rear seal looks ok, but I might still be tempted to replace it with one of the new brown/orange ones. I've done several EJ rear seals though and have had no trouble with leaks, but I only use Subaru seals and make sure the crank amd block bore are perfectly clean before installing the new seal. I also drive the seal in VERY carefully and only as far as the original seal.

As previously stated, you can order the clock spring assembly from an online dealer and get it at a much lower price. You can install it yourself no problem but you will need to rent or borrow a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. Most auto parts stores rent these for a small cost which is refunded when the puller is returned.

Does the car have an auto or manual transmission? Any chance the flex plate or flywheel is making contact with the bellhousing? Have you used the same timing belt tensioner on all 3 of these blocks? Is it new or original? The tensioners used duering that time are known to flop around when they go bad and cause a knock that sounds very similar to rod knock.

Look into a set of Delta reground cams. Not sure what rpm range you're usually running but racing is usually upper end. Their high end profile might make some good usable power for what you're doing. Not sure what it will do for off-idle power with the Franken motor though. If you can run higher octane fuel (91-93) a Frankenmotor would work out great. Find a 99 or newer 2.5 block and put your heads on it. Actually if the cam itself broke the bearing in the head might be trashed. But 2.2 heads from that era are easy enough to find used and almost never need extensive work.

Check fuses first. I've never been able to hear the pump on mine, so a lack of noise from the pump is no surprise. I'd be more inclined to stick the supply line from the filter in a bottle and see if you get fuel during prime. No distributor on these so not much to go wrong in that department, although it is possible the timing belt jumped. Which on a 98 OBW would likely mean bent valves, depending on how far it jumped.

Right, you should use head gaskets to match the heads you want to use. The bore of the blocks is the same, unlike a Frankenstein swap where you need to use gaskets that match the bore. For those there is some drilling that needs to be done to the gaskets to make the holes match with the passages in the heads. And yes it's smart to pull that oil pan and reseal it, and check for blobs of RTV stuck to the pickup.

Maybe the EGR has been bad for several years and the old ECU was replaced with one from a non-EGR model in an attempt to get rid of the EGR code? Thin theory. Amusing if nothing else. Glad to hear the new ECU is working out.

What's the code this time? Please post the actual numbers, P0XXX, not the wording the scanner says. Did the Dealer actually calibrate the TPS or did they just reset the computer? Symptoms are similar to what I would expect from a large vacuum leak. Are you sure no hoses got knocked loose during the parts swap-fest that took place just a few days ago?

Order a set of Felpro permadry valve cover gaskets. They come with the bolt grommets and are good quality. Only cost about $25 for the set depending on where you get them. Rockauto lists the set for $22. The set does both sides.

If the evap monitor doesn't set on its own soon, try the method from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134825-subaru-tsb-how-to-set-your-im-monitors-for-emissions-testing/ Lots of recent threads about the EGR transducer going bad. Also check all of the vacuum hoses for the EGR valve and transducer. There are quite a few sources for vacuum leaks there.

I've resealed several oil pans on my cars and I felt it was well worth it. However, you will need Ultra grey or similar (threebond) sealer for the oil pan. The sealing surface is not flat enough to use anaerobic. The early ej22 doesn't necessarily need NGK or Subaru plug wires. They run just fine with a set of decent quality wires, such as from Napa or Federated. I think I paid about $20 for the last set I bought from Federated (about 3 years ago) and they've been great. I think they were made by Standard Ignition Products. Fuel injectors are an either/Or deal. Either will work just fine and the only difference I can tell between any of them is the color of the tops. I'm sure the flow rates differ slightly or the nozzles have some minor difference but the ECU can adjust to make either type work. There were differences in the very early style injectors but those shouldn't be on a 94 engine IIRC. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=260925109309 This timing belt kit will save you a few $$ over the gates kit and comes with the Aisin water pump, factoy style rubber coated metal water pump gasket, and brown front crank and cam seals.

A member here, Presslab, just recently took one apart where a bearing/bushing in the converter had failed and was making a whining sound similar to a pump going bad when in gear. Upon disassembly the output of the converter was very loose. Replacement of the converter fixed the noise.

You can put it into just about anything if you swap the wire harness with it, but it would be easiest to find a running car and keep the engine and trans for spares. In a 99 that has to be a phase2 engine, regardless of displacement, it has to to into a phase2 compatible car. Which basically means 99-03 Impreza, or Forester. 00-04 Legacy or Outback 4 cyl.

Those numbers don't mean much, just that the sensor is capable of producing a voltage signal that appears normal. Long term fuel trim is based almost entirely on input from the O2 sensor, Bank 1 Sensor1. Basically the front sensor in your case. Subarus maximum fuel trim adjustment is something like 27.5%. So if the trim is maxed out, the ECU is adding 27.5% more fuel than is normally needed for stoichiometric combustion. If the fuel trim adjustment is maxed out in the positive direction its because the O2 sensor is reporting a lean condition. The ECU is trying to compensate for this by adding fuel. If the sensor still reports a lean condition the ECU adds more fuel and more fuel until the sensor responds, which in this case is not happening. Either the front O2 sensor is faulty, or there is a leak in the exhaust between the cylinder head and front sensor allowing oxygen into the exhaust stream. Check for leaks. With the engine running have someone stuff a balled up shop rag in the tailpipe while you listen for any leaks up front. Leaks that affect the front sensor will be between the manifold and the front cat flange. Of you have no leaks replace the front O2 sensor, and reset the ECU to reset the fuel trims.

Not without machining a place for the thrust bearing. And i'm not so sure that can be done.

Main bearings on 25D have thrust bearing in a different place. 25D thrust bearing is in #3 position IIRC 251 is in # 5

G sensor is under the center console.you can almost see it through the park brake handle opening. Take the two screws out of the rear section under the arm rest and pull it up, the G sensor is the little box with 3 or 4 wires.

That's pretty cheap for an hour labor these days. Had you mentioned replacing the TPS before I would have said that needs to be calibrated first. The ECU uses the TPS as one of the main controllers for fuel and spark timing. And the Trans control unit uses it for shift point timing and AWD lockup. Glad they got it sorted out for you. Which dealer did you take it to?

If its still there when in FWD its probably one of the front axles. If either has even been replaced with an aftermarket axle, I would suspect that one first. Subaru axles have green paint on the axle cups.