Fairtax4me

Year? The ECU controls ground for the fuel pump relay and primes the system for about two seconds when the key is turned to ON. Once the prime is done the fuel pump turns off. You may still have low fuel pressure though. Or you could be flooding because the ECU thinks the engine is too cold. Or it could be too lean because the ECU thinks the engine is hot. Have you tried starting fluid? Don't need much just a quick shot or two should do it of you do indeed have spark.

Second what John said. Pinched or chaffed wires, probably in the flexible section between the door and a-pillar. See if it does the same when the door is open.

If the CTS thinks its 77 degrees, but its really 35 degrees that would be an issue. It would be too lean at start. Also interested to know if you've checked fuel pressure while cranking. But it seems to run fine once started? Are there ports in the timing cover to check the marks on the cam sprockets?

The flashing light indicates an electrical issue of which only the TCU is capable of diagnosing. (It cant really detect mechanical issues) That mixed with TB makes me think its a dead C solenoid. The test is to put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder located on the passenger strut tower. The FWD light should illuminate ( or something of that nature) and the TB should be gone if the duty c is working properly. I'd also pull the trans codes to see what it thinks is wrong.

I think there is a plug on the bottom of the head that goes into the water jacket. If that's loose it will leak. Are you sure the leak is from the bottom and not water dripping down the back from the top? You need to poke around with a good flashlight and get a better idea of exactly where the leak is coming from.

Best would be from a dealer. You can save some $$ by ordering from one of the online dealers, or your local dealer may match online pricing if you ask. Next heat is probably a set of Cometic gaskets. Either way you will need to buy intake and exhaust manifold gaskets separate from the head gaskets. Same goes for valve cover gaskets. Parts store kits that have full gasket sets are useful but the quality of the head gaskets in those kits is usually sub-par.

Sounds like low coolant from this side of the interwebz. Heater core gurgle (that trickling water noise) is usually indicative of low coolant. Look for leaks. The thermostat housings like to weep a little. Radiator cap could be bad as well.

Second what Woods said. Same engine that originally came in the car. Actually if you look at the top of the block just below behind the alternator there is a rectangular casting that should say "EJ25". The fact its DOHC means its an EJ25D series engine. Just get a gasket kit for your car and it will work.

Is a rental out of the question? AAA is a good service but that doesn't mean you'll break down in an area where a AAA tow company will be close by. The middle of BFE is still the middle of BFE, even with AAA.

On the 90-99 models the rear pivot of the control arm is sort of cone shaped. The inner sleeve of the bushing is shaped to match, so the bushings only fit one way. I only found this out when I tried to use a right side bushing on the left side of my legacy.

You pretty much just have to drill out the head and tap it so you can screw the fitting for the EGR pipe into the head, then put your original intake manifold on the new engine. There was a workaround someone tried where they just ran a hose from the EGR valve over to the intake pipe instead of drilling into the head. Apparently it worked pretty well. I would try it if I were in that situation.

Did you use a flush machine, or drain just the reservoir? What type of fluid did you put in?

I didn't think the crank sensor affected fuel input. I always thought crank was spark and fuel was the cam sensor. Either way it doesn't make much sense for a crank/cam sensor issue that it would start and run when using starter fluid, but won't start on its own. Sounds like lack of fuel to me. What does the ECT sensor say engine temp is?

Timing is probably fine. The key way is only for locating the crank pulleys. It doesn't hold them from spinning once the crank bolt is tight. Remove the crank pulley and clean up what you can of the mangled key. Put the crank pulley back on and tighten it up good it should hold just fine.

Thought I remembered there being a TSB about this. How old is the fluid? (Age and mileage) These systems are self bleeding so there should not be air in the fluid unless it is entering the system through a leaking seal or o-ring.

Curved glass is stronger in some ways than straight glass, depending on several factors of course, but I don't think you should have a problem as long as you keep the sheet metal shaking to a minimum.

The one next to the crank sensor is the oil pressure switch. The cars with 2 temp sensors have them right next to each other on the water crossover pipe. Grounds can cause some funny issues, might check the main ECU ground where it attaches to the intake manifold. That probably won't help the temp gauge issue any, but it might help the running issue.

Stainless + aluminum = bad. Hardware store stainless is usually pretty soft anyway. I save those size bolts whenever I take something apart at the junkyard, I have dozens of them floating around in my toolbox.

Either the new sensor is bad or there is damage in the wire harness for the sensor. Can't rule out a mechanical condition causing it to run rough when cold, but the temp needle wouldn't react like that. Even with a bad head gasket.

Everything except the ECU? Are you still running the 2.2 ECU? Wonder if swapping to a 2.5 ECU would help? Maybe it would deliver a little wider fuel map at idle?

Sweet! Hope the places closer to me start using this site too!

If you paid attention when the wheels were off the ground you would see the wheel on the other side of the car spinning the opposite direction. This is normal action for an open differential. The output of the transmission is still locked in park, but the gears of the differential allow the wheels to spin because there is no mechanism to lock the actual axles. Shift into Neutral and it will roll out.

Smelled "hot" is usually burning oil or grease from a leaking seal or split axle boot. If the car sat for a while (several weeks or months) before being driven there could have been residue or cobwebs on the exhaust pipes and they usually make a strange smell. If its running rough I would look into nothing more than a tune-up to start with. Plugs, wires, PCV valve, air and fuel filters. Check for split vacuum hoses and check the hoses for the breather and PCV system. (The ones that run from the valve covers up to the intake pipe) Maybe run some fuel system cleaner with a tank of fresh gas before changing the fuel filter.

Green connectors are for test mode and as far as I know do not cause the cel to blink any specific codes, it will only cause the light to blink. The black connectors are clear memory and and erases codes when the key is turned on when connected. Both sets of plugs should be UNPLUGGED for normal operation. They should only be plugged in temporarily for testing purposes. An I reading this correctly? You raised the car by putting the jack under the transmission pan?! That's a problem, and would certainly cause internal damage to the transmission. There is a plate not even a foot away (forward of the transmission) in the center on the bottom of the front cross member that Subaru calls "jack plate" which can be used for jack placement when lifting the vehicle. You should never lift a vehicle by jacking under engine transmission or drivetrain components, such as the rear differential. The only exception to that is if its a vehicle with a solid rear axle, such as a pickup truck.

I'm not familiar with the ej20d, cars in the US market never had that engine code. Either way, because of its age and differences in electronics you will need to source an engine from Legacy in the same year range. 1989-1994 roughly. If it just has bad head gaskets, those are easily replaceable. I'd like to know the reasons why he thinks it needs head gaskets though. Did it overheat? Does it run rough (shaky/vibrating) after sitting? Were there bubbles in the coolant reservoir? Did the coolant boil over or overflow out of the reservoir? Any smoke from the exhaust? Is the engine making noises like loudly knocking or ticking?