Fairtax4me

Every EJ ive seen pulses out of the oil filler cap. Nothing to worry about there. Have you unplugged and cleaned the connectors on the coils? What about the ignition module and bellhousing plugs?

Internal damage, valve damage ( anything mechanical basically) will be more likely to cause a steady low RPM misfire that clears up as rpms increase. If bad enough the misfire may not clear at all. This has electrical written all over it. I'm tempted to say its an ignition coil going bad because of the intermittent nature. Maybe fuel injector, but my gut says coil.

Evap code is usually a loose fuel filler cap, but there are several codes for the evap system. Post the exact code if you have it and we can give better advice.

The "park test" is to put the gas pedal on the floor and let the clutch pedal out. Bet if you did it that way the engine wouldn't stall. Either way, rpms increasing without a gain in speed means the clutch is slipping. Really doubt the rear main seal is leaking. It's almost always the separator plate. No point in rebuilding a 2.2 at 200k. It'll do double that without a rebuild if you just change the oil on time. I'd pull it and just do a basic reseal, replace the clutch and put it back.

It's a small black connector and the test leads you need are taped up In the harness near it. Look near the steering column. I don't recall exactly which pin needs to be connected, can look it up later. You might even find it posted here somewhere. (I think I've posted it before actually).

What's wrong with duct tape?! Not real sure what you could use other than self tapping screws. I know that washers work better for holding if you can slip something under the "open" side like a shim to make it press harder on the surface you actually want to hold.

Outbacks and GTs had 4.11 final drive. Brighton, base and L models had 3.90. The speed sensor gears are calibrated to match the final drive and tire size. A 3.90 (L) final drive with outback size tires the speedometer will read slow. A 4.11 final drive from an outback with L tires will read fast. A 4.11 final drive from a GT with L tires may be slightly fast. If you swap to a 4.11 FDR trans from an outback you need to swap to the larger outback sized tire to keep the speedometer accurate. The larger tires may also require outback struts for spring perch clearance. 4.11 trans from a GT will not require the taller struts.

Yup, replace the whole transfer section. The case exploded because the tailshaft was being whipped around like a baseball bat in there. Bearings are ruined, center diff may have been damaged but probably not. The transfer gears probably have some funny marks in them though. Best to just replace the transfer section and driveshaft. And the gear shift linkage that got ripped off of the transmission as well. Heat shield could maybe use some tender loving hammering back into place but should be fine otherwise.

The 2.2 phase 2 started in 99 so it should be phase 2. Didnt know those had MAF sensors though. I always start looking for vacuum leaks. If there are no codes and no CEL you may get a few clues by looking at live data, but not always. Check the condition of the knock sensor, they are known to cause power issues without setting a code.

Pretty much all of the ECU grounds go back to the intake manifold with the main engine harness. The whole bottom row (4 pins) of one of the big connectors at the bellhousing is ground wires for the ECU.

Now that's how you drive!

Slave cylinder is failing. The cup seal inside goes bad and it doesn't hold pressure. The pressure from the clutch spring pushing the plunger back into the cylinder transfers back to the master cylinder and that's what pushes the pedal back when you lift your foot off. If the pressure in the slave cylinder leaks past the seal there is no return force in the system and the assist spring on the pedal assembly causes the pedal to stay stuck to the floor.

Had the same sort of feeling for a long time in my 96. Several things made a difference. First was the bushings on the steering rack. The factory rubber bushings had fallen apart and were practically gone because of oil contamination. Replaced with Whiteline polyurethane rack bushings and took a lot of slop out of the steering. Fixed some of the wandering. Had a front transverse arm bushing that was leaking fluid (grey silicone goop) and that fixed some of it. I just replaced the front bushings on the rear trailing arms, also installed a bigger (outback) sway bar in the rear and that pretty much took care of it I think. It still feels stupid on the back roads but it doesn't walk all over the lane on the interstate anymore, which is where it was the worst before. Anything above 60 and it would just wander its own way down the road. Not sure what else to replace because the rest of the bushings feel solid, ball joints are in good shape, tie rod ends are all new within the last couple years. Alignment about 8 months ago after some suspension upgrades and it felt no different after the alignment than it had before. Steering rack bushings, transverse bushings, and the trailing arm bushings all made noticeable differences.

So rewarding to find the source of a wiring problem! Glad to hear you got it fixed finally.

Clutch out today, TOB was kinda dry sounding. Fingers on the PP were a little uneven too. I've seen worse but I can't figure exactly why it was squeaking so much. Oh well, new clutch going in tomorrow and ill grease everything up real well again.

Now thats a clue! Bad grounds cause all kinds of hell. ECM grounds to the block on the intake manifold. Probably top passenger side near the ignition coil on that year. Should be several black or brown wires coming together at one point. It could also be low down behind the #4 injector on the back of the manifold drivers side. You can also check the ground points at the lower corners of the center dash console. One on either side down low below the level of the change tray / cup holder in front of the shifter.

FSM makes it looks like its built into the abs hydraulic unit. If its not then its right next to it. It could be inside the fender but since the VDC uses the ABS its probably built into the same unit. Should be a big plug on it, unplug that and make sure all the pins are clean. And a small black or grey cover on the side or the front with some squeeze tabs, that's the cover for the fuse panel. Should be some fuses and a relay or two in there, check them for clean connection.

A cracked flex plate usually makes a metallic rattly banging noise. It's going to be most prevalent when the engine is put under load at low RPM, such as when shifting into drive or reverse. A circumferential crack (shown above) can make a hell of a racket and leave you dead in the water if the flex plate separates entirely. If the center section breaks out the engine power doesn't get transferred to the transmission, and you go nowhere. Also once that happens, after the engine is stopped it will not restart because the flex plate is used to turn the crankshaft for starting. The starter will engage and the flex plate will spin, but the engine will sit still or may jump randomly. Radial cracks (from the center out) can be fine for quite a long time, and may not even make noise in some cases. Typically they cause no internal damage to the engine or transmission, but anything is possible with the right combination of failure and luck. (Or bad luck)

Did you check in the offroad forum for links? Bumpers are gonna be a custom build thing. Might check with some of the vendors in the Products for your Subaru section.

Timing belt is off a tooth.

Forester platform is based on the Impreza. Pretty much All of the chassis/suspension parts swap over with no modification needed.

This reeks of poor connection to supply power. Check on cougars suggestions. Also download a copy of the FSM here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ to help track down which parts of the circuit you need to focus on. 98 and 99 wiring are the same with a few small exceptions, but the 99 manual there should have what you need in the wiring diagrams section.

Find a big screwdriver and put it in the vents of the brake rotor, jam it against the caliper bracket. Quick easy way to hold the axle still so you can remove the axle nut.

If you have a hoist pull the engine. You can reseal the separator plate while its out and fix some of that oil loss problem. Also reseal the diamond shaped access cover on the other half of the block. I wouldn't mess with the rear main seal. They almost never leak. Www.beergarage.com

Computer has its own sensor for coolant temp. No connection to the gauge sender at all. Pics of this custom made fitting?