Fairtax4me

I thought we were infamous... Nice article! cool to see some fellow forumers get some spotlight on the inter-webs. Miles it's too bad they didn't get a shot with the Trashwagon in the background!

Nope. Check PCV breather hoses for splits where they meet the valve covers.

The original gauge sender (1wire) works the same as any aftermarket sender. Just wire up your gauge to that.

It's really pretty simple. All you need is a feeler gauge, which you can get for like $5 at any auto parts store. Set the engine at TDC for cylinder 1, check the clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem (between camshaft and bucket on DOHC engine) on all 4 valves for that cylinder. Move to the next cylinder in the firing order, set it at TDC, check clearances, repeat for the next two. The clearance is the largest gauge or combination of gauges that fits. If no gauges fit the lash clearance is 0 and that's no good. Just for giggles, try this to see if you can get it to set a misfire code. Get the engine warm, take it out on a highway or some road where you can accelerate from about 30 up to 60 mph. Get up to about 30mph and put the trans into the highest gear, then accelerate at half throttle or more up to about 60. Repeat several times, then stop the car and turn off the engine. Restart and repeat the process several more times. This usually gets the ECU to detect an intermittent misfire by keeping the engine in the speed range where the misfire occurs. It doesn't always work, but only takes 20-30 minutes to try.

So the damage was to the right front? Have you checked for blown fuses? I think it may be more complicated than that but its always best to start simple. There is a fuse and relay panel on the VDC module (part of the ABS hydraulic unit), I'd check there first. Check the VDC control module connection to ground. Also unplug it and reconnect in case there is a poor connection at the harness plug. Check for corrosion in the plug also. Also check for physical damage to the control unit.

Pull the valve covers and check lash clearance.

Had any decrease In fuel economy lately? When was the last time it got some simple things like plugs wires and filters? Run some fuel system cleaner in case the injectors are dirty. O2 sensor is a good possibility if it hasn't been changed in the last 100k miles.

Unplugging the front O2 sensor should set default the ECM to a failsafe mode. It will run on preset fuel and spark maps which should allow it to run, but it not at optimal performance or economy. It's certainly worth a try if you have no other leads. You might unplug the sensor, then disconnect the battery - for 15 minutes or so to reset the ECU.

If pulling every fuse make no difference it's possible some relay elsewhere in the car is still engaged and pulling current, but there shouldn't be many (if any) that don't have a fused power source. And at that, it would have to be part of the circuits that are powered by the 120 amp main fuse. That doesn't handle every circuit in the car, most of them yes, but not all. The headlamp relays, horn relay, fuel pump relay, TCM power, ECM power, BIU, key illumination, hazard module, and power window breakers are not supplied by the main fuse. So unpugging the main fuse kinda sorta rules most of those out. Fuses and relays for all of those are in the under hood panel. I don't see anything that really stands out looking at wire diagrams. Everything that is supplied by the main fuse has a fuse or relay in the under hood fuse panel. You should be able to isolate a bad circuit elsewhere in the car by removing the fuses and relays in that panel. If none of those fuses made a difference, the only thing I can think of would be a short in the panel itself. Also a small chance there is a short in the alternator charge lead (the bolt on lead), which should be easy to find by checking the insulation for any signs of chafing or cuts.

Does the new battery still drain within a few days?

There is a purge solenoid for the canister under the number 3 intake runner. Connect the outlet line of the canister to one of the ports on the purge solenoid. The other port on the solenoid should go to the manifold. I don't know much about what gets left and what gets cut out of the harness on swaps poem this, but I doubt the other valves and solenoids of the Evap system will be hooked up anyway. Not much point in hooking up the canister if the rest don't work either. But you will want to cap off the purge solenoid or the manifold port where it connects (or used to connect).

80+ on the return side?! Yeah that return line plugged up somehow. Kinda have to wonder where the obstruction came from though. Glad you got it running.

Closest I have is 2000. It shows 3 connectors, B54, B55, and B56. Without VDC: B54 7: Shift solenoid 1. 1st or 4th gear >9v, 2nd or 3rd gear <1v. 10: Range 2 switch position. In range 2: <1v. Any range except 2: >8v. 16: Lock-up Duty Solenoid. More than 8.5v with lockup, less than 0.5v without lockup. B55 7: SSM data link signal 10: sensor ground 1 16: SSM data link signal With VDC: B54 7: Lock-up Duty Solenoid. When lockup >8.5v, when not lockup <0.5v. 10: Intake manifold pressure signal. 1.2-1.8v 16: 2-4 brake timing solenoid. 1st gear <1v, 3rd gear >9v B55 7: Range 1 switch position. In range 1: <1v, any range except 1: >8v. 10: Torque control cut signal. Ign switch ON: 8v. 16: none B56 7: none 10: AT Oil Temp warning light. Light on <1v, light off >9v. 16: none I got this manual from here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Doubtful it's valve clearance issue at that mileage. Fuel trims should be low single digits. 10+/- is fine.

Check the plug boots if it has Coil on plug. Also pull the springs or whatever it has out of the boot (you can usually pull the boot off too) and see if they're corroded. Check the output post for corrosion an look for signs of arcing through the boots. If it has plug wires its probably time for some new ones.

You can get the factory manual from Subarus website, just have to download all of the sections independently. Kind of a PITA. What model year is the car?

Ignition switch is really not that difficult to change. Remove the covers on the steering column, harness unplugs under the dash, fish the wiring out and remove a screw or two from the switch. Pull it straight out away from the column. This could also be a poor contact in the clutch safety switch. Try pressing down harder on the clutch pedal before turning the key.

Transmission isn't in gear is it? That could make it difficult, but the wheels would have to be on the ground. Did you do any other work to the engine before putting it in? Is the seize a hard stop, does it clunk or knock like two pieces hitting each other? Or is it a gradual increase in resistance? Normal rotation is clockwise, turn it clockwise and tighten the pressure plate bolts a little at a time. See how it does after tightening them.

Is that the bearing the shop replaced? The axle nut wasnt torqued properly. Looks like someone did the wail it on with the impact wrench method rather than getting out a torque wrench and actually torquing it to 137ft lbs. Also looks like it wasnt staked. Anyway, the axle nut keeps the preload on the inner races of the bearing, if it gets loose the bearing goes kerplooey in no time. Just putting the weight of the car on the wheel before the axle nut is tightened is enough to damage the bearing. Jam a big screwdriver in the brake rotor to keep it from spinning while tightening the axle nut. Then make sure it gets staked well to avoid backing out.

Mine has them all over the place as well. It's what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

Sounds like license plate screw dents. People pull into a parking lot and nudge the car in front of them. On a car that's been around the marks can be all over the place and appear random, but I bet if you measured straight acros all of them would have another mark at almost exactly 7" center to center.

Checked all the vacuum hoses and intake tubing for proper connection? If that all checks out you might try spraying some throttle body cleaner through the Idle control valve in case it is sticking.

It's a switched ground system. Only difference between this and the old systems is the DRL module controls the ground side of the bulbs rather than a switch, but the concept is still the same. It would be nice to know what voltages are present on the high and low ground pins at the lamp socket with the lights on and with them off. Unplug the lamp socket, turn the key on and check each pin for 12v. Whichever one has 12v, that's the power into the lamp. The other two wires are grounds controlled by the DRL module. One ground will be "on" and the other will be "off" depending on the position of the dimmer switch(hi/lo). If the DRL module is not grounding the lamps properly you will have 12v at the power into the lamp and something less than 12v but more than 0v on the hi/low pins. If the highs are On, the hi pin should have 0v. Highs off, high pin should show 12v. Same applies for the lows. As I said in the other thread, with the DRL module unplugged the lamps should have no ground path, and with the key ON all 3 pins at the lamp socket should have 12v. If the hi and lo pins show less voltage than the power in there is a connection issue at the bulb. If all 3 pins have 12v check for 12v at the high and low pins at the module. If 12v at the pins in the module connector, the issue is in the module. It sounds more like a poor connection between the junction block and DRL module or between the lamp sockets and junction block.

Take it for a 30-45 minute drive to get the moisture out of the crankcase, then recheck during the day after it cools. Check it before the temps drop at night.

Yes it seems to be pumping fuel just fine. There was an issue on the early ej22 where the injectors would freeze during cold damp conditions and cause hard starting, but I don't think that's the issue, especially since it happens more when it's warm out. ECT reads fine so I'm thinking it must be spark related. Of course it never has totally failed to start so its kinda hard to figure out what magic isnt happening that prevents it from firing right away. Maybe the squirrel is tired.