Fairtax4me

Was a little late on that one... The oil's going somewhere. Check your spark plugs for ash deposits/buildup.

You can clean them up with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. But if there is any pitting you'll need to have them turned or replace them.

When does it occur? high/low speed? Hot or cold brakes? If you're currently using semi metallic pads then any type of ceramic will be a huge upgrade. Duralast ceramics have worked very nice for me on other vehicles. If there is a Federated Auto Parts store in your area they sell re-stickered Raybestos/Wagner ceramics for a good price. They were $40 here, but price may vary in your area.

Oh. Maybe check Tirerack then, they carry them. Though I'm not sure of their price...

Well.... I suppose that could cause it too...

I think they just have the page typed stupid. If someone is crazy enough to pay that much maybe they deserve it. I'll refer you to my favorite parts site Rockauto.com. Search Google for "Rockauto.com discount code" and you'll surely find some 5% discount codes floating around. It's not much but it's better than no discount.

Where did we come up with 27%? A VW trans is not a RWD transmission. It's a FWD transaxle just like a Subaru trans. It's just mounted at the back of the car. That place is big enough I'm sure there is a place right in Pittsburgh somewhere. Pick up the phone book and look for an automotive performance company. Or Google: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=Subaru+tuner+Pittsburgh+PA&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=ChX6JW99kTOLsIaPEywSP5IWMBgAAAKoEBU_QJHF9&pbx=1&fp=eb25b226ce9fcffe

Pricey yes, but I've got ~10k miles on the set I bought and can't even tell that they've worn. And they're running against slotted rotors (which are known for chewing up brake pads fast).

2000 - 2004 are the same chassis design I would think. So links marked for any of those years should fit fine.

I do about 2,500 - 3,000 in the soob. I honestly don't keep close track of the mileage I change it when it starts to look bad, but I know it's not more than 3,000. I run the soob on Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend. My Lincoln gets Amsoil full synthetic and I run 15k on that with a filter change in the middle.

Try EBC Red Stuff pads. They grip extremely well at any temperature (can't say for sub zero/arctic, never driven with them below about 15°F). No such thing as brake fade if you use those with a good rotor.

Take the fuel cap off so air pressure in the fuel tank doesn't push a gallon of fuel out. Cover connection with a rag and pop it loose.

4,000? Are you running synthetic? If not it's time to change it. Wha...??

I guess since this is a spin-off of my idea... Shadetree, possibly profession soon 9 years automotive. Small engine for about 12-13. I got a weed eater to run somehow and my grandfather decided I should rebuild the carb on the lawnmower the next day. Limited experience in: The big 3, Cadillac (mostly first gen Northstar crap, ever changed an alternator on one of those?), Subaru, BMW, Lincoln, Honda (just did an auto to manual trans swap which I don't wish to do again any time soon) I have recently (last 2 years or so) started doing small home repairs and modifications. Plumbing, some electrical, drywall. Gonna try to tackle a flooring project in the next few months. I've been taking things apart since I was a little kid. My mother describes it "I was afraid every day I'd come home and find the refrigerator in pieces". I took apart old/dead watches at my fathers jewelry shop, then tried to put them back together. I usually got them all back together. I have a transmission out of my Ranger that I'm gonna take apart sometime and dig out the 4th gear needle bearing that sounded like a fork in a blender. I've been into hobby grade RC cars for the past few years so I have a desk covered with small parts currently collecting dust. But I still remember where they all go... mostly.

I'm usually not a big fan of after market wheels, but those look really nice. $189 is a pretty good price too.

They're kind of a pita. Use grease on the slide shims and put a bit of muscle into it, they'll slip into place.

It is tight, it has thread lock to keep it from backing out accidentally. Be sure to put new thread lock on it when reinstalling.

It is tight, it has thread lock to keep it from backing out accidentally. Be sure to put new thread lock on it when reinstalling.

If you upload pics to the site they come up as thumbnails. Use an external host such as photobucket and copy and paste the image link they provide. Or use the "Insert Image" shortcut button in the bottom row of icons at the top of the message box to insert the link to your pic and the site software will automatically add the "" tags needed at the beginning and end of the link. I think theres a big tutorial on all this in the site help section. Might have pics too I've never looked at it.

7/8th of a turn? I think it's more like half a turn past initial contact. I use Purolator and Hastings filters (depends on which store I go to for the oil (who's got it on sale this month )) I'd carefully check and clean the sealing surface of the block for nicks/gouges and old seal material. If there is any varnish or crud on the mating surface it has to be cleaned off. NO razor blades on aluminum. Use a rag with brake cleaner to scrub it off. A common leak on these is the oil pump O ring, which is very close to the filter, and can leak down and get pushed over towards the filter by wind moving through the engine bay. Clean all of the engine very well and let it idle for ten or fifteen minutes then check for leaks. If none are present drive it for a few miles and check again. Drive a few miles at a time and check after each drive until you find the source of the leak.

It's the small roundish part that's directly under the large cylinder in the pic. That cylinder is the reverse check mechanism. The bolt holds the lever that actuates the reverse checker, so you can't go straight from 5th to reverse. It's not clear in the pic but you'll see it for sure when you get the top plate off.

It's the small roundish part that's directly under the large cylinder in the pic. That cylinder is the reverse check mechanism. The bolt holds the lever that actuates the reverse checker, so you can't go straight from 5th to reverse. It's not clear in the pic but you'll see it for sure when you get the top plate off.

Depends on if the car is prewired for them. If the wiring is there, it may be as simple as swapping out the little modules on the wheel, or replacing the wheel with one that has the controls. If it's not wired, you'll have to buy harnesses and all that good stuff and route them through the dash. Might also need a control module of some sort, depends on how Subaru designed the system. I would imagine a competent dealer parts department could tell you what you'll need.

I really couldn't say one way or another. I don't know much about bolt strengths, but I'm pretty sure grade 5 will be too weak for a head bolt. I'd strongly suggest drilling the whole thing out and retapping for a real replacement Subaru head bolt.

So I read at some point here that the IAC motor was replaced. Did they replace the entire unit or just the electronic actuator on top? What about vacuum hoses? Have they all been thoroughly checked? And it shouldn't have anything to do with the problem when the engine is cold, but was that O2 sensor ever replaced?