Fairtax4me

Yep, need the crank timing sprocket. Gotta have the correct reluctor tooth count for the crank sensor.

It might say in the cylinder head disassembly section. It's pretty straight forward. Just don't get the rocker arms out of order.

You used the orignal crankshaft timing sprocket? And the original drivers side camshaft timing sprocket?

Strap it down with ratchet straps and it'll be fine. I wouldn't go on the interstate/freeway with it, but easy driving on streets it should be fine.

You won't find a kit for an OEM clutch. Subaru only sells the parts individually. Clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing. Check subarupartsforyou.com. I think they package them all together. Good prices too.

Not sure why, but I noticed the same looking in the FSM. As far as I can tell they were different starting in 90 all the way up to at least 04, probably beyond.

It happens sometimes. Technology doesn't always work the way it's intended. When you end up with doubles, simply edit one of them, remove its content and type in "Sorry, double post, please delete."

Oil feed port for the rocker shaft is plugged up with some kind of crud. Seems more common for it to happen on the drivers side. Find out which side is tapping the loudest with a stethoscope or long handle screwdriver. Pull the valve cover, rotate the crank so all the valves on that side are closed, then pop the rocker shaft assembly off by removing the eight 10mm bolts. Remove the end cap with the oil feed port, then slide each rocker off and lay them out in order. Make sure they do not get mixed up, they have to go back on in the same order. Blow the end cap and rocker shaft out with air and cleaner. Make sure the cleaner flows through each of the feed holes in the rocker shaft. Oil it up, put it back together and back in the car. If you want you can remove the lifters from each rocker arm and prime them with oil before putting them back in. I usually don't because if you have one that's sticking it can hold the valve open and cause the engine to run really rough. I usually just let the oil pump fill them up after its back together.

Good deal! Get those heads surfaced if they have any corrosion between the coolant ports. Set of Felpro head gaskets and she'll be running great again.

I would pull the intake manifold off and check for any oil running down off of the intake valves on 3-4. When you did the rebuild you put new pistons and rings in it? Did you use the same ring pattern for the 1-2 side as the 3-4 side?

Could have a power issue going to the relay. If the power going in is dropping the relay can click off since the control side and load side share the same source.

The charge level could be a little low. The low pressure side only tells half the story. To get an accurate idea of charge level you also need to see the high pressure side of the system. You can tell much more about the charge level by only looking at the high pressure side, than you can by only looking at the low side. The expansion valve will alter the valve opening based on temperature. Even if the charge is fairly low, the expansion valve will usually be able to regulate the low side pressure to hang around 25 psi, and the high side pressure may be as low as 150 psi, which is far too low. When properly charged, high side pressure will be in the 200-225 range with outside temp around 85-90°F. Low side pressure will be around 25-30 psi, or a bit more if it's very hot out. This is with engine speed around 1500 rpm and held for a minute or so. The low side may only be off 5 psi, and on the cheapo can guage you probably won't even be able to tell. But a 75 psi difference on the high side makes it very obvious that the system is undercharged. You can get a real r134a manifold set on amazon for under $40.

High mileage oils have some extra additives that help keep old seals from drying out. They tend to have more detergents to help clean out sludge and varnish buildup. They can also help lower oil consumption in some cases. I've been using Valvoline high mileage in my cars for years.

2 quarts in 3k is horrible. Eventually you're gonna end up with burned valves because they'll load up with carbon and won't be able to cool. That may be what's going on already and is causing your stumble at idle.

Yep, better safe than sorry! A little inconvenient to have to pull the cover off again but at least now you know everything's good in there.

The rings are probably toast if its running through that much oil. Try car-part.com and see if you can find a decent deal on a used engine. What year is yours?

May have had a bit of rust on the cylinder wall keeping the rings from sliding easily as you turned the crankshaft. That happens occasionally. Not anything to worry about. Usually if I suspect something like that I pull the plugs and put a few blasts of WD-40 or some other oil spray in the cylinder.

Ohhhh snorkel tubes! That's just a little grease. I was thinking you had a constant drip of fresh oil. Thats probably some assembly grease from the water pump that ran down after the engine got warmed up that first time.

Walbro is in. Was actually smaller than the stock pump. Kinda skeptical of it at first but then decided I didn't care. Stuck it on and then found it wasn't quite an exact fit, but it was close enough. Wire harness connector that came with the kit I got was a perfect match to the connector on the sender housing. Turned the key and fired right up without even priming it. Still had the access cover off and I could hear the whoosh as the fuel blasted up into the line. Pressure builds instantly, and now holds after shut-off. Back on the road again!

Gotta love that new part smell!

You'll need a helper to rev the engine up while you listen around under the hood for the source of the noise. A mechanics stethoscope will narrow it down quickly. If you don't have a stethoscope you can use a long screwdriver. Compressors make some noise anyway, but its hard to say if yours is normal or abnormal. It just could be a failing tensioner for the AC belt. If the noise is coming from the compressor, and has been growing louder, then its likely internal damage in the compressor. It may not even be the compressor. When the AC is running there's an extra 30-40 amps load on the alternator between running the radiator fans, blower fan, and AC compressor clutch. Higher load could cause the alternator to make noise. Could also be a loose heat sheild on the exhaust that only rattles when the engine is under certain load conditions.

No no, don't try to get it out from the under side. Stick the ez out in the top side and use an extension to turn it.

If you're pulling the heads off just wait until they're out. Put the head on the bench and knock the center ceramic and all out of the middle of the plug and try using an easy-out on it. Also spray PB all over it to help get any rust or corrosion loose first.

The longer rods would give you more compression, assuming you use the 251 pistons. With those rods the pistons would likely crest above the block deck, which would necessitate using a thicker head gasket.

Pull the pan off, look for chunky sparklies. Remove the pickup tube, check the screen for debris that could block flow, check for cracks, and check the o-ring where it sticks up into the block.