Redcap

Agreed. There are few things as satisfying as running around in a vehicle you built yourself.

Discoverer S/T, which is pictured in your first post. But, to be honest, I've always had good luck with Cooper rubber.

They bite and clean out pretty well, although we had some troubles when the red clay got real nasty. I like them and would probably buy another set if I were in the market for A/Ts for the truck (couldn't say no to free 35x12.50xR15 MTs though!).

I'll put in for the Coopers. They lasted really well on my K20 Chevy and a friend's Cherokee.

And that depends entirely on how much tongue weight you need to run.

Clarion also made a shorter SD/USB deck with no cd player...I'll see if I can find the model number.

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree/Maintenance. What: Pre-90 cars (Subaru [still relatively new to this], Toyota, Dodge/Plymouth, Cadillac) and pickups (GM, Ford, IH), motorcycles (Suzuki, KTM, Bultaco), heavy equipment (IH, John Deere, Komatsu, Cat, Timberjack). How long doing it: 20+ years (had to learn to fix my own crap as soon as I got my first field car, which was around the age of 10.) Other skills: Bike mechanic (specifically BMX and 24"/26"/29" single-speed conversions), TIG/stick welding (not real pretty, but strong), carpentry (framing and repair), plumbing, electrical (residential and 12/24v), drywall, window/fixture installing, some machine work (manual lathe/milling machine), heavy equipment operator, brewing.

That is what I do on pretty much every sort of vehicle.

Steele Rubber is a good place to look.

Sounds like head gaskets to me. Personally, I think I'd find someone new to work on your car.

Cam timing appears to be correct. The driver's side cam sprocket is straight up when the three little ticks on the flywheel are centered on the pointer and the passenger side bank cam sprocket is pointed straight down.

Will an EA82 run with one of the cams a tooth off? I recently replaced my timing belts on my EA82 wagon and followed the procedure I found here, but it seems to be significantly more gutless than I remember (or I just drove the truck for too long).

Legacy seats are easy to put into an EA82. It just requires a little modification of the EA seat rails and removal of the Legacy ones. Took me about half an hour with a drill, a hammer and cold chisel and some scavenged hardware.

An XT6 is a different Subaru, a little 2dr coupe.

Put a pair of fresh front axles in today. Next project is brakes all the way around!

My '88 3dr had one of those wheels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions#T81W_4WD Its Wikipedia, so you can never be completely certain of the information.

Passenger side axle isn't broke yet, but it is very clicky. Drivers side is too, but not as bad. Both are getting replaced next week.

Awesome! Good do know!

That's a killer little red Wagon!

Yesterday, I did my first timing belt job on an EA82. It involved a fairly large amount of swearing and a couple broken tools, but my 85 Wagon lives again! Next weekend I have to replace both front axles and likely the bearings in the hubs.

Congratulations. You don't know what you are talking about.

Yes, you would be measuring amperage.

Subarus use the 4x140mm bolt pattern. There WERE some 14" Subaru wheels in existance, check your local boneyards and you might get lucky! Pugs (Peugot) wheels are another option, but they have funny lugnuts that are sometimes hard to get and I'm unsure which series to look for. You can also redrill 6-lug stuff (6x5.5" GM truck or 6x139.7mm Toyota/Nissan/Datsun/Isuzu/etc) to Subaru bolt pattern, since the spacing is almost exact. You just need to drill two holes and countersink them 60 degrees.

Excellent! Thank you! My other idea was having a friend TIG a Redline one piece by piece to a spare EA82 manifold, as I have a rather rough set where the surfaces are not true. My car is not lifted (yet), but I was planning on using the short filter anyway. I ordered it. Another paycheck or two and I'll be ordering my Weber!