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They are one-piece. But they'll work fin in cars with 2-piece lights. My GT up there had the 2 part, and they fit just fine.

I got my 97/98 with complete unknown history for $100. Glad I didn't spend any more, put it in and it had a blown head gasket. And burns oil...

If it's not too bad it won't be blowing much exhaust into the coolant, and will cool off at lower loads. When the HGs went in my family's 99obw I was driving. I was going up a hill and it started blowing cold air. Went to turn up the temp, and then noticed the temp gauge near hot. Pulled over and let it cool for a bit, but I knew I was only a few miles from a mechanic, mostly flat ground there too. Started it back up and just drove 15mph on the shoulder, temp stayed just above the middle. So it wasn't so bad yet that it couldn't keep the temp down, but it gets worse.

It's in FWD anyway when the engine is off because there's no pressure to engage the clutches. So the fuse doesn't matter.

Just swap PS pumps, use your original one to the car. I don't even disconnect the pump when I pull engines. It has rubber hose, so just swing it to the side. Depending what came out of your car, you might have to swap the brackets off your old engine to the new.

If you aren't getting any fluid dripping through the hose even, something is wrong... Make sure there's some freeplay in the pedal. If the rod is pushing the piston in the cylinder when the pedal is up, it will close the ports and no fluid will get through. I had this happen to me bleeding a new master cylinder on a VW beetle a few weeks ago...

Search legacygt.com. There's a post on there how to wire them. Pretty easy, really. They're not hard to adjust, just adjust them. I really like mine, awesome output over stock. Truly amazing difference. And they look badass

When the temp starts to climb, does the heat stop working?

The 22 and 25 FW have to use their respective pressure plate and disc though, don't they?

Expanding on what John said... What's the code, P0500? Does the speedo still work right? I wrote a guide on why that happens, and how to fix it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119744 On the MT there's only one speed censor, they rarely fail. And if it does, good luck getting the bugger out of there.

I know someone who's been running an ej25d with bubbles in the tank for well over a year now. It hasn't overheated or gotten worse... With leaky head gaskets it's sort of hit or miss how long it'll last. I don't like playing that game, so I just replace them. With my luck I'd be in northern Saskatchewan when it blew.

If you think the DOHC is a tight fit, try changing plugs in a newer ford V8. The computer at work gave 5.5 hours for the job. And oh boy did it take that!

Here's my experience with bosch plat plus... This is less than 2k miles, all 4 looked like this. Ran like garbage!!

I always go out of my way to find local shops, old timers, etc. There's a guy who rebuilds starters and alternators near me. He does great work. Completely overhauled my legacy's alt for $40. New bearings, brushes, etc. And the thing works like new. Best part about guys like that is talking to them, hearing all the stories. If you're not careful you can spend hours in such a shop just looking around and talking.

Any reputable machine shop should balance the flywheel after surfacing it. If they'd done that, you'd have been fine.

Why? I've never had any problem with it.

The change to rear discs was amazing for me!! But .... My rear drums were rusted to hell, cylinders leaking, shoes were gone, adjustment was crazy... I'm sure in working condition they do pretty well. The rear discs are still nice

I don't think they're very expensive from subaru. But the driveshafts are all the same (construction wise, not length). It should work.

Well, my ej22 is sort of a POS. The rings are shot, etc. If this is keeping it alive until I get my other engine rebuilt. Yay.

I have, and can use a sliderule...

Most break-in oil is straight 30wt. In the old days, there wasn't multi-viscosity oil either. Won't running it forever kill it eventually anyway?

Run 5 or 10w40 then. I run thinner in winter. But the 40 part is the part that's important. You want a thicker oil at temp.

Next oil change use 15w40. Works great in my unknown mileage ej22 and my ea81.

Blown head gaskets on subarus don't usually cause low compression, or the engine to run bad. With the engine warmed up, look in the overflow tank. If you see bubbles coming out, the HG is blown. Happened to me, put in a 2.2 I got, must have been overheated. When I took it apart the gasket around the waterjacket was all blown out from too much heat/pressure.