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If it's not rusty and runs/drives well. Keep it!!! My legacy has 234k miles, drives great!! I've swapped in an ej22 with many more miles on it than the car, and the whole thing just goes and goes and goes.

Just a cautionary. I really wouldn't try to tow over 1000 LBS. I have a custom tow bumper I made up for my GL and have towed some stupid heavy things. Turning and braking is hairy. And I have 4wheel disc brakes on my car.

Epic win. This thing is awesome! I want a ride, I bet it's gonna be scary fast

I used to overfill mine because it leaked. I figured it was better to have too much than not enough (because when it got low it whined...). Never had any problems. Never got bubbles on the stick either when it was a bit full.

If I had a messed up knuckle and needed a wheel bearing job right now, I'd probably go to a junk yard and just get a used knuckle and swap it in. Pretty easy swap, really. Then you can spend your time on the one you took off and do the bearing job right.

First thing I always check when I have issues with door electronics is the wiring into the door. Make sure none of the wires are frayed, broken, or shorted.

You have a thread here saying you have a AWD auto, and you have another thread saying you want to swap from FWD to AWD.

Why is it bad to let the suspension hang? When a strut is stored in a box for a year on a shelf, it's essentially just hanging.

here are some periods and commas ...........,,,,,,,,,, I don't understand...

My GL's mileage is perpetually at 150k or so. Not that a working odo really means much when the whole drivetrain is mix-n-match.

Is the wedge shaped one the inside or outside? If the wedge shaped one is on the caliper side, one of the pistons is frozen up. Looking at the rust, I'd believe it..

No reverse would be bad for me... There's no way to get in or out of my driveway without backing up...

Broke an axle wheeling it.

Every time I see pictures of wagons being awesome, I want one. I've been saying my next car will be a beater wagon or fozzy.... And I got a stupid LGT. oh well. haha.

Sure low fluid will probably ruin transfer clutches. Low pressure will slip all the clutches and bands and make a mess.

Take the O2 to a hardware store and find a nut it threads into. Bam. instant O2 bung.

There's a lot of info on here about torque bind... It's the center transfer clutches, or solenoids that are probably your issue.

Surprised they'd charge that much for a test. At least they aren't trying to screw you over.

The fuel gauge is separate from the fuel light circuit. Sometimes my gauge sticks at 1/4, but the fuel light will come on. Which is really nice. My car is looking out for me..

You don't really want too much silicone, actually. Nor do you want too little. You want just the right amount. Wiping off the excess on the outside is a moot point. It'll make it look cleaner, but if a bunch squeezes out, then a bunch did on the inside too. That's not good. It'll clog up your engine

Most people just make them out of RTV and nothing else.

You could probably swap the gauges, or board out. It's not as mad tyte as you think to have your speedo in kilometers...

In 97 or 98 (both outback and legacy) they added an extra post toward the bottom of the door to give the car more rigidity in a crash. Your 96 will not have it, but if you look at a 97+ there's a black post downward of the main latch. The doors have a receiver that doesn't clear the inside of the door frame. I tried to swap a newer outback door onto my 96 legacy. It bolts on and almost closes. The door could probably be clearanced with a grinder or BFH, but I didn't want to go there. Anyway, experience is talking, it won't work for back ones. I'll check in the AM if the front door has the same change or not.

I dunno about front doors, but rear doors will not work.

Does it feel like you're hitting the rev limiter? If the CEL is on, see what it is. Some codes will put it in limp mode.