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I had a water pump seize up at 92k and shred the timing belt. Fortunately it was a non-interference engine. But yours is not. Water pump is a lot cheaper than being towed, then paying for a valve job and all the associated gaskets, etc.

I fixed the CEL, it was a broken vac line at the charcoal canister. And the ABS light is because the fuse for the windshield wipers blew while driving in the rain. And that was the least important fuse to steal.

Dood!!! Nice deal. There are a million jeeps out there for cheap, brats with a good body, especially in this area are impossible to find! If you don't get it I'm driving down to NH this weekend

It mounts to the tranny bell housing. There should be two threaded holes just to the driver's side of the pitch stopper mount.

I had the same thing happen to me on my last car. I never touched the screw, but randomly one day after I owned it for over a year it just started sticking exactly like your described. Very fine adjustment of the screw fixed it, so it wasn't necessarily messed with. It just happened to me.

I put LEDs in mine too, sorry no night time shot...

Fixed my stupid AC tensioner...

Whatever you did seemed to fix it. I have the option to PM you now.

That's weird, I don't have the option of sending you a PM either. Do you have it enabled in your account? It was sure worth selling it for my $400 LGT....

There's a ball with a spring. The ball bearing is forced up over a little hill into a valley when you turn it right or left. In the center the ball bearing is in a bigger valley. Over time the hills between the top valleys sort of erode. And the reason it falls into left is because gravity is already pulling the stick downwards, so since it's going down anyway having just come from turning right it keeps on going... I hope that sort of makes sense.

If you have a stock engine and stock radiator, the stock fans work perfectly fine.

I've had the nuts stick to the studs and pull them out of the motor, on both sides. And from that experience, i can say you will not be able to put them in without pulling the engine away from the transmission. They came short up against the axle cups. So I suppose that gives you the decision, pull the axles or pull the engine.

i don't have the option to PM you either. you probably need 10 posts.

Does look much better toward the center. looks good!

Is your speedometer working properly? Any codes like p0500? I was having a VSS issue that was causing my car to stall when I pushed in the clutch.

As long as the boots haven't been torn for years the inner tie rod ends are pretty easy. It's the outer ends that piss me off... I can never get the lock nuts off.

Usually somewhere between 140 - 170 for those motors. But what's most important is for the readings to be within 10% for all cyls.

The WD part of WD40 stands for water displacement. Pretty much all it's useful for is when your disty gets wet... That's all I use it for. Compression check is really easy. Screw compression tool into plug hole, hold throttle wot, crank engine. Look at gauge. Repeat for other cyls.

The computer is under the steering column just behind the kick panel. Unless you really dunked your car under water to the point of swamping it. The computer didn't get wet.

That's precisely what would happen if you had low compression.

I've never done an ea timing belt. I have an ea81 But I have done DOHC ej timing belts. So that makes up for it.

Umm, that's not as easy as you think. I'm sure others who have done a bunch of them will chime in. To be honest, the 4.44 is nice. It makes the car a bit quicker.

To get a 4.44 rear diff look in outback, legacy GT, and foresters.

Do you have a check engine light on? When it shuts off and comes back on, do all the lights on the dash come on? Like they do when you first turn on the car? You've changed a lot of stuff, while you're in there clean up the battery connections, alt connection, and grounds. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of bizarre things to happen.