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2.2 from an outback? So it must be from a 96 outback manual transmission? If it's from a 90's car and it's an outback. It will not work in a 2000 car. The manifold won't swap, the wiring won't match up.

Not unless you either rig some way to run the cam sprocket on the wrong end, or have the exhaust go out the hood... That would make for a really weird intake manifold. It would be like a mobius strip intake.

Likewise there are also times where it's desirable to lock up the wheels. Or just use one's ABF (anti-lock brake foot) which a nicely trained one works better than ABS. Friend couldn't get a FWD volvo out of my driveway. I gave it a try.... finally turned off traction control and it made it right up. It was amazing. With TCS on it was totally useless, off, it plowed right on up.

Put a new sunroof assembly in. That sucked.

I still can't decide if it's worse to pull an engine when it's 90* in my garage, or -10* in my garage... Done both. Both suck.

Good god that's insane :banana: I can't wait to see some finished pics and vids.

WOW!!!***Amazingly good work. I know how hard it is to polish glass like that and have it come out nicely. Those look awesome and I can only imagine the output is much better compared to the awful stock lights.

I have 6kk HIDs in projectors in my Legacy. 35w. They feel a little bit too blue for me, next time I'd do 5500. 6kk with 65w would probably be perfect.

Unplug the harness plug to the coil...

I've been through a lot of napa crapdrive axles. Finally I have a set that hasn't had any issues... knock on wood...

When I pull these motors I tie a rope around the forward intake runners and hook on to that. It lifts the engine up perfectly balanced, no need for a leveler.

I can't wait to get back to iceland some day. I have the most wonderful friends there that I miss very much.

They should both be cable speedos. Even if they weren't, swapping the vss into the older transmission is easy. If the final drive is different, swap the rear diff with it. No biggie there. But is the wiring the same between obd1/obd2?***I***thought something with transmissions changed with the obd change.

A lot of the ej25Ds get overheated to the point of seizure because people don't know what the hell the thing with H and C is on their dash. Which is why I now own my legacy.... he did that twice, and the poor thing still started up and ran. But I wouldn't trust that bottom end...

Your question has just been answered. It's being overheated that kills these things. I***helped someone do HG's in theirs (didn't overheat it). The motor has 240k on it currently and running fine.

Nice! Toyota trucks awe awesome. I want to build one into a wheeler some day.

Whenever I***go from my ea81 swap GL back to the Legacy it feels like a wicked fast car...

I'm pretty sure with these motors you don't have piston to valve contact when the belt goes, it's intake and exhaust valves colliding. So I guess it can be pretty off, but not have the valves hit each other.

Badass!!

I don't want to clutter up this thread, but I'm trying to send you a PM about that steering part, if you've gotten my payment/shipped yet. But when I go to send you a PM it says "subaruguru has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her." :confused:

Next time you blow a hose, don't put the rad cap on. This will keep the pressure in the system down as to not blow the tape off. You'll need to periodically stop to add more water... But you won't keep blowing the hose worse.

Sweet pics!***Looked through them all. Looked like tons of fun. What was happening with the car?

On my 89 you lift the seat back up, and just fold it down. Mine is probably broken in some special way, like the rest of my car. But they do fold down..

A wider, lower profile tire MAY not (but probably does) have more contact area when the car is just sitting on lever ground not moving. But if the car is just sitting there not moving, why have tires at all. Wider tires DO have more contact area when cornering. The tires on the inside of the corner are getting much more weight, thus they will deform and have more contact area without rolling onto the sidewalls. The tires on the outside will have less weight on them, but since they're wider they'll have a larger contact patch with the ground adding to traction. It's really a moot point if they have more contact when the car isn't moving, because at that point the tires aren't doing anything anyway.

Yep, pipe wrench to get the inners off. You have to un-stake the lock washer. Looking at it, it's a little confusing. But when you have the new part in your hand it makes more sense. Just measure to get the same length of the tierod, and you won't need a new alignment. I've done tie rods on a few different cars, and kept the alignment spot on afterwards.