987687

For a reliable comfortable DD, take the legacy. As long as the auto doesn't have any problems now, and you take care of it. It will last a very, very long time. Much as I like my GL, my legacy beats it for DD/roadtrip status. Or, you could buy both. One for lifting, and one for DDing

If they aren't NGK plugs and subaru or NGK wires, yes, do them.

Jump ahead to 2025. You gen one for $600 because it has 300k miles, the timing chain is loose and slapping around. And needs replaced. Also, one of the vtec actuators won't work right. Not only will this cost a fortune to replace, it requires a huge skillset. It's not like an ej22 where you just slap on a new timing belt and role for another 100k miles.

I'm happy to say, these rants don't apply to me. I have a nice happy running ea81, and an ej22 with over 300k miles still churning along. But ya, I do agree it would suck working on the new FB***motors. Hopefully by them I'm rich enough to pay someone to do it for me

The EJ line has been around now for 21 years. It's about time they move on to the next engine, the EJ isn't going anywhere. And in a market where engines need to be more powerful, more efficient, longer lasting, etc. It's important they make something new and improved that can grow. I'm all for it. Hell, I'm glad car's don't still have an ea82....

Do you have a check engine light? Specifically code p0500? That's the vss code, it will put the computer into limp mode. As will many other codes.

A 2.5 intake manifold won't physically bolt to 2.2 heads. Have you swapped heads? You don't need to swap computers, I'd try going back to the stock one to see if thats the problem.

If you messed something up it would have showed up by now. I'd say it's fine. Nice job!

I'd take it to an indy shop. Dealers don't have the time to deal with older cars (yes, 2003 is an older car to a dealer). They drive people out by giving them a ridiculous bill for stuff that may not even be necessary. They basically want to sell you a new car. That's what dealers do best. An independent shop, on the other hand, stays in business by doing good work for people and making happy customers.

Make sure it's going together nice and straight. You need to get the splines to line up. Put a breaker bar on the crank so you can turn the motor over as you slide it in. That way as you're pushing you'll get it lined up. Put it in gear so the transmission doesn't spin with the motor when it's partially engaged, not letting it go farther. They can be a pain sometimes.

Test for ripple. Put your meter on AC and check the AC voltage in the system. Shouldn't be more than about 1v AC. If it is, you have bad diodes. That will cause all sort of problems in the electrical system.

It will swap with any second gen filler. That's not the issue. The issue is only 99 got that valve thingy at the top. So if you use an earlier one you'll just get an evap code. If you don't care. Cheap option.

If the trans is just starting to slip, that means you might have time to save it. Band adjust, fluid change, additives. Hell, maybe just top it off will do the job. If you just leave it the way it is, you'll definitely ruin it in short time.

Your easiest option is just to get a different motor that's in good condition. Swapping out an engine is wicked easy. Or a friend who's good with tools might give you a hand. I've sure given a few friends hands fixing cars with stuff like this.

Since you say you're looking for alternatives... You could try to rescue it by welding sheet metal over it. You might get a few more years that way. But for the love of god, don't do it still attached to the gas tank Big fuel hose might work... Maybe you could fab a new one out of exhaust pipe. Unfortunately, that's the only year of that style filler. Unless you don't care about evap codes, then use a cheaper earlier one.

It's not that there's anything wrong with bolt on mods. Just that if you do it all yourself you get that good feeling of having created something awesome from scratch. And then when something breaks you're more in tune with your rig and can fix it on the fly.

If you have a brat or a wagon, jack, and one of those electric impact drivers. It would be a breeze to swap out when you hit the trails.

Not to pick an arguement... But now lets assume you're going downhill with one rear wheel off the ground. That's 1000lbs per tire, plus the fact that most of the weight is on the downhill front tires.

If you take the clamp off carefully you can re-use it. Otherwise wire it on, hose clamp. whatever.

The rough ring at the very top is because the piston rings stop there. Haven't smoothed that part off. When I took apart my motor for HGs a couple cyls looked like that, and worse... I said eff it and put it back together Runs really well! Burns a lot of oil though...

Same goes for ATV tires as goes for the ATV wheels that have 4x140 bolt pattern. Don't run it on the road at speeds, and you'll be fine. Some of those ATV tires are 8 ply, that's gotta be enough to hold up a little old subaru.

Sounds like my motor.... except mine doesn't leak....

You probably shouldn't run straight water because glycol is an anti-corrosive and necessary for modern cooling system.

Same deal as with the doughnut, don't drive it very long or very fast. And it will be fine. If you have an auto, put in the FWD fuse, then it's FWD and doesn't matter what tires you're running.

Same exact break happened to me. But I was 2 hours from home... THAT was a long ride home. Anyway, I just welded it back on. Did it without dropping the exhaust, but it's pretty difficult. There isn't much room to weld under there...