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I re-keyed the trunk on one of my cars to match the ignition and doors, then later when the ignition tumbler failed I re-keyed a different one to the same key. It's actually really easy to re-key the locks subaru uses. You can usually re-use about half of the wafers, just get a bag and replace the ones you need to replace. File them all down so that they're flush with the cylinder when the key is in it. To get the ignition cyl apart just drill a hole next to the two pins on the side and pop the pins out. The whole thing will come apart and works more or less the same as the door and trunk locks. I'd probably re-key the trunk and ignition because you only have to do two locks that way.

Thanks! That's my $400 beater.

Wrong. 97 and above the 2.2 IS an interference engine.

You need to get a thin walled pipe that slides pretty tightly over the axle (from the inner end). And it needs to be longer than the axle. Then drop it pipe end down on something hard and it should pop the outer end off. There's a vid on youtube somewhere... I've never managed in getting one back together after doing this though. But they come apart nicely.

If you line up the mark on the crank pully it puts all the pistons in the middle. So you can turn the cams all day long and you won't get interference.

^ are you thinking of car-part.com ? He can't just get the engine from a 95 legacy and swap it in. He has a 2002 which means he needs a phase2 engine. Probably easiest to just find another 2.5 short block and swap your heads on. And FYI, 95 was still OBD1 for the impreza, so you don't want a 95imp engine if you're doing 2.2 swaps on DOHC cars.

Does he have the key fob for it? Pushing the unlock button on that should reset the alarm. Sounds like the alarm is going off without making any noise. Also, on some models you can turn the key on and off 5 times to reset the alarm.

You need the axle through the hub to hold it together, otherwise there's nothing to hold the hub on. You'd need to get just outer cups with no axle shaft and bolt those through the knuckle to hold the hub, brake, wheel, etc together. If you did that, yes, it would work. You'd put a lot of extra strain on the rear driveline parts though. Umm, what?

I want an old CRX. Those things are awesome.

Why don't you start your own thread instead of clogging up another purpose based thread with chatter.

Ya, I wouldn't sell this. You know what you have at this point after a bunch of repairs. It's a pretty cool car. Weird your loyale insurance is more than the legacy, for me it's the reverse. The GL is half what the legacy is.

I didn't think so. The stock one actually takes in air from in the fender, so it's colder than that will get. And that looks easier to hydrolock. And I don't think the panel filter is any sort of restriction to an EA... But so many people do those cone filter things with the shiny intake pipe so I thought there might be something to it I didn't get...

Those came out really nice! Nice job. You must have a tube bender and the right bits to cut the fish mouths (is that what they're called) for the top and bottom tub. Very jealous of your shop setup, or access to shop setup.

It's not really that much different. It's a longitudinal engine. Unbolt everything, clutch stuff all works pretty much the same on all cars (except VWs....). BACK on topic. Type: Fixing what's broken on my car, upgrading in the process. Some working in a repair shop. What: Mostly Subaru, but working in a repair shop I worked on a lot of domestics and trucks. It's all kinda the same. How Long: Three years, maybe. Other Skills: Software and hardware development, computer repair, marine electronics/wiring. Sailing, etc.

Just out of curiosity, how is that better than the stock airbox?

Yikes, poor clutch. D/R swap time

Good job getting that out!!! They can be a ***************!

Looks like fun. Is that an auto?

Move south...?

Have you looked at the tone ring and sensor? Sometimes the tone ring can get all rusted up, the sensor can get a lot of dust and crap built up on it, etc. A lot of the time cleaning it all up fixes the problem. Or, just pull the fuse and the light in the dash.....

When you find the new part, give me a holler. I've had those arm thingies off my car twice now, once for wheel bearings, and once to replace the tube frame... heh.

It's called a torque wrench. Some shops use them, others use Torque Stick lugnut sockets with an impact wrench. I've used both, and while the torque sticks are quick and easy, they are hardly an accurate way to torque the lug nuts. Using a torque wrench is the only way to make sure you get the proper torque on the lug nuts. Torque sticks are stupid. Sorry, but I don't like them. I worked at a shop where I was forced to use it because using a torque wrench is a waste of time... apparently. I liked them until I used one of those dial type torque wrenches to check how accurate they were. It was supposed to be a 90 ft/lbs stick, after checking all 20 lug nuts on the car, I had a range from 80-110. What crap.

That's how I got my car ... But said person might also fix it for you cheap just to make an extra buck on the side. Never hurts to ask around.

Looks like quite the project you have there! It would be cool to put a dual range transmission in this and use it for offroading! Since it's already a little rough around the edges you wouldn't have to feel bad about some more bangs The fuel leak is probably just the fuel filler neck, common problem. Not to hard to fix. Doubt it's the fuel tank.