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Give it the Chinese water torture... Take a spray bottle with water and spray it over the wires and see if you can get leaky spark and make it miss. Non-oem wires and plugs cause issues like this though. That will tell you if it's damp related. If it's not, it could be a failing coil, ignitor, low compression on those cylinders, sticking valve.... there's a lot that will cause a misfire.

1/2 and 3/4 misfires are often coil related. Are you having the problem more when it's wet out? Or is it just random?

Model Year, the year the car was sold as, not the manufacture date. My car was manufactured in 88. But the year it was sold as that is on my registration, etc is the model year, 89.

I forgot about the suspend thing...

I've done it a lot before with outboard thermostats, car ones, etc, etc.

Put it in a pot of water on the stove. It should open around 180* F. I have a fancy thing that attaches to my DMM for measuring water temp... But candy thermometer would work great too.

How long ago did it get a sticker? In any case, it won't go from passable condition to rusting through in just a year... That's probably why it was on the lot in the first place. Last owner just traded it in. Complete BS though, they should fix that.

The 10th character in the VIN is W which means 98 MY.

The "pressure release doohickie" is the jiggle pin. (if you mean the thing that goes through the hole and jiggles..) The spring side goes toward the engine, other than that, just put it in there. Doesn't matter how your spin it.

I would have gone... But I live thousands of miles away and my rear subframe is broken.

subarus had issues and the Delorean held together? That's a little surprising

ile?

My legacy is almost to 232k, ej22 swap. But original auto tranny is still doing pretty well!

When my driveshaft was going out it made a terrible clunk clunk clunk that got louder with speed. never went away except in reverse when it was being loaded the other way.

ej25 has a bigger bore, so the gaskets need to match the bore.

Use head gaskets that match the block.

Another thing is, a bent wheel can balance out and look good on the tire machine screen. But in real life performance it'll feel like you have a flatspot on the tire. When it's spinning in the balance machine look at the wheel and see if it wobbles.

The inners rarely fail unless the boot is torn, but could be the issue...

Have them check the balance before pulling the wheel weights off. That way you can see how off it was, or even if that's the issue. Whenever someone comes in with a front end vibration or whatever I'll check the balance of the wheels. More often than not that's the issue. But if I just pulled the weights off first I'd destroy some good evidence.

The canister is in the back of the car by the filler neck, so there's only one hose that goes back. It goes from the top of the intake > solenoid under the intake (that I know works) > a line that goes off into the firewall. So unlike some, there aren't 3 lines going to the canister under the hood.

I didn't have one problem with mine for a whole year. Until two weekends ago I broke the rear subframe...

^ why?? If it was an injector I'd get a misfire code. I had a spare ECU I wanted to test to see if it worked.

I'll second just replacing like others have said. I've done it both ways, and that's just easier. I've gotten a few of those bolts out, but for the most part they come out with sawzall and air hammer. Replacement bolt from subaru is something stupid like $25. If you have it, ABS connector is under the back seat.

If you were buying an engine from me, I wouldn't let you rip it apart before handing over the cash... Isn't it OK to run with those cracks anyway? they all crack like that..

So I put in a new fuel filler neck (the old one was very rusty and leaky), another good working solenoid, and changed out the ECU. One at a time. Still have the stupid code...