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The closest one is 96.7 miles from me... Maine is really dumb, but it would be cool if we got this gas farther north!

The FWD auto got FI before anything else too.

I've had to replace one. It was a GL, but it's more or less the same driveshaft.

Really just four bucks for the pressure sending unit? Sure you aren't looking at the idiot light sending unit?

I started doing work on my cars in my garage. Progressed into replacing engines, head gaskets. I'm tearing down an engine now for full rebuild. Couple weeks ago I got a job as a mechanic. And I've learned a lot so far! I've been doing pretty much everything from oil changes, to auto tranny service, wheel bearings, timing belts, brakes. Whatever comes our way. Nowhere near a pro, but I can do any work my car needs to keep it on the road.

I don't know a number, besides more HP than stock. ha. I wouldn't say it's more reliable than a stock 25d though. The big issues with those (other than head gaskets) is the bottom end. And overheating because of head gaskets doesn't help the bottom end being weak. But no, you do not need to do a full rebuild on heads or the block. I'm going to rebuild a 25d block I have, then put performance cams in. It would be cool to dyno it some day..

Yes, 2.2 heads on 2.5 block gains power and compression. It's loosely referred to as the "frankenmotor". There's a lot on here and nasioc about it. I'm looking for a certain thread...

I see a lot of oil... Looks like you have a crank seal leak.

No, actually. There aren't any OBD1 EJ25s (at least USDM), therefor there isn't any plug-and-play ej25 for his car. What you can do though is swap your heads onto an ej25 block, that will raise the compression a bit and give you more power than a stock 2.5. Exhaust will be fine, you have the dual port header on your car anyway. Just swap the AC bracket that fits the engine, and you'll be fine

The length of the key isn't so important as getting it tight. Read what johnceggleston said in his post. After it's all torqued down the key isn't doing any work.

The oil pressure gauge going to zero is actually a good thing. The engine is set up for an idiot light, not an oil gauge. So going up to the top means you have no oil pressure (light ON). When you start the engine and it builds pressure the gauge goes to zero. Because in a car with an idiot light the light would go off. You can swap the oil pressure sending unit from the old engine if you want, or just think of the oil pressure gauge as a light.

A lot of cars use a wasted spark system. It's not unique to subaru.

Since it's your first time doing it, pull the rad. Makes more room. I find it easier to pull the rad than the fans anyway, two bolts and two plugs the rad is loose. I usually pull the top hose anyway because that's how I fill the engine back up with coolant, and the bottom hose isn't much extra to take off... On the note of tranny lines from before. I find it easier to disconnect everything but the bottom line. Then pull the rad up and tilt it, makes much easier access to get that one off.

You'll probably strip the threads out before you break the bolt. But Fairtax4me has good advise.

Either bosh plats are complete garbage, or they don't like subarus. I put a set in my car (before I knew better) and within two weeks it ran like crap. I was actually 500 miles from home at the time. What fun. Anyway when I got home I pulled the plugs out and they all looked like this. Nuff said. Use OEM.

I've gotten a few out by soaking them in PB for a few days, then some heat and more PB. Obviously be careful with the heat. Usually they don't come out in one piece though...

Trust me. It does. I froze a battery solid because that switch.

What I'm saying, is a fully rebuild 2.5, bearings and all will be just as reliable. With all the updated parts it should be fine.

Sure the 2.2 swap is all fine and dandy, and I went that route for price, ease, and the fastest way to make my car run. But there's no reason to tell people who want to rebuild the ej25 not to. A properly rebuild ej25 is a nice engine. I want to rebuild my 25D block, give it 2.2 heads and some cams. Rebuilt right it should be a nice reliable engine with a lot more power than the 2.2. No reason to bash that.

hahaha. haven't heard that one yet.

The tstat housing bolts are only torqued to something like 6ft/lbs. You don't need any special hardware.

In some countries it's a law that cars require a switch to turn on the parking lights when the key is out. This is how subaru deals with that. In the US we tend to just use our hazards if parking on the side of the road temporarily, etc. But that's why the switch is there. Why the USDM cars get it? ...

A couple things I wish from the auto... I wish the TQ would lock in 3rd, and I wish I could make it hold in 4th. Sometimes going up long hills (I live in a very hilly area), it'll downshift to 3rd. Accelerate too much, so I lift off, then it'll shift into 4nd, but a tiny more gas to maintain speed it goes to 3rd again. Also, when I slam the gas to the floor, if I'm going over 40 it won't downshift to 2nd unless I put the shift selector into 2nd. But what's happening with yours is normal..... Swapping mine to a manual to fix all these issues.

What gets hurt splitting the block with the pistons still in?

The FSM does...